Drop Differential to Pull Engine?
 

I have a stock 1986 with a 22R. I'll be pulling the engine soon for a rebuild. I plan to disconnect only what's necessary, then yank it out whole.

Will I need to drop the differential to gain enough clearance for the oil pan? If so, what's the best way to go about getting it enough out of the way without removing it entirely?

auto or standard? actually, i don't think you'll need to either way.

what? why would you need to drop the diff? :think:

you're pulling the motor up and out, not out fron under the truck :P


here, if this mean's anything to you...

as you can see, I pulled my 22re, and my front diff it still in place :great:


http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...838800x600.jpg




eeesshh... that's messy...



here, this is better :D



yes, same engine bay, lol :great:


http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...696800x600.jpg




and again... see, diff's still there, but no motor :D


http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...009800x600.jpg

I have a manual transmission. Truck is completely stock.

From what I've read, some with IFS have had to either remove or lower the differential to gain enough clearance for the oil pan to come forward enough for the engine to separate from the tranny. Others haven't had to.

Looking at mine, there isn't very much room for the oil pan to move forward before it will contact the diff. It may have enough room with the transmission/engine raised up a bit.

An example of lowering the diff to pull the engine is in the second post here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ng-22re-96589/

I saw another thread here where someone with a 93 4runner had to lower his diff (he completely removed it) to get the motor out. I don't have a link handy. I've read about others encountering the same clearance issues elsewhere.

Iamsuperbleeder, did your truck have a lift when you pulled your engine?

I've never pulled an engine before, unless you count a VW bug. But that was essentially pulling the car.

FWIW, the 1986 FSM engine block removal section says for 4wd to first remove the transfer case. Which, of course, involves removing the transmission first. Cute.

The FSM is great for some things, but taken too literally can sometimes send you the long way 'round the barn.

Speaking of the long way....

The tcase can be removed without taking the trans out. Very simply in fact, given that it only has 6 bolts holding it to the extension housing :)

Why would they even call for removing the transfer case as the last step before pulling the block? I can understand advising to pull the tranny, but the transfer case doesn't make sense. More billable hours for their mechanics?

YOU DONT NEED TO TOUCH THE DIFFERENTIAL.

period.

Who cares if the oil pan hits anything? Really?

Besides the transmission pivots. It's mounted on a rubber bushing via the crossmember. LOTS of play =)

I'd actually rather pull a 22r than drop a tranny to do a clutch. I've dropped these transmissions to many times to count and ultimately the motor is easier to pull (I HATE working under the truck LOL even if i can sit under my rig cross legged just fine and im 6 ft 2")

I like the innovative web transmission crossmember:hillbill:

Mine went in and out fine without removing the diff.

ummmmmmm

huh?

:think:


oh the ratchet strap holding the trans up?

lmao

yeah I didn't want to tare the trans mount in half, lol

I pulled my engine and the diff wasn't in the way.

I don't know why some have had problems with this. Maybe they didn't jack up the engine/transmission assembly an inch or two to gain clearance. The engine (whole, with intake and exhaust on, only the valve cover off) in my stock 1986 22R 4x4 pickup came out with no clearance problems.

this reminds me, I got to put my diff back in place, I only dropped mine to get the oil pan off to inspect the rods after a major knock. The only thing I can see having to remove to pull the engine out isn't the diff its if you have an aftermarket steering stabilizer like i do. I had to remove that as well as the factory one to get the pan to slide forward enough to remove it from the motor. Just make sure you lift up the front of the tranny if leaving the tranny in, unlike what i did and yank the thing out without lifting it enough and bent the pressure plate fins when they caught up on the trans input shaft. Good thing i needed a new clutch anyways.

You do not have to remove the front diff for any engine work! I have done it on 22r and 3.0 3vz and it doesn't need to be touched. Even if you are dropping the pan. For that you loosen the engine mount bolts take a jack and lift up the front of the engine, then you can work the pan out the back. Not easy but can be done.

It's time for an update on this now that I have a little experience.

I had the valve cover off when I pulled the engine. Raising the tranny/engine slightly allowed the oil pan to clear the differential.

Today, attempting to reinstall the engine with the valve cover on didn't work. With the valve cover in place the tranny/engine couldn't be raised high enough for the oil pan to clear the differential.

When raised high enough for the oil pan to clear, the valve cover hit the heater hoses going into the firewall, preventing the engine from sliding back far enough to mate with the transmission.

When low enough for the valve cover to avoid those hoses, the oil pan hit the diff.

I'll try again with the valve cover off.