Dragging Clutch
 

I've been having troubles shifting into first lately and I grind going into reverse, also my truck idles very fast. After researching I found that my clutch is dragging but I couldn't find out how to fix that issue. I have a new clutch and flywheel (under 20k miles) and a rebuilt tranny. Am I going to need to replace another part of the clutch assembly? Or can this be fixed my adjusting something along the drivetrain?

Do You mean slipping ???

I am not real sure what a dragging clutch is.

It might be possible either the Master or Slave cylinders has internal leaks not allowing the pistons to retract all the way.

Your really hard on the Clutch and it is worn out already. Poor quality clutch kit!!

Poor transmission rebuild

All of the above!!!

How long ago did the problem start??

I did quite a bit of research trying to figure out what was wrong and found all my issues consistent with everything "caddyman" mentioned in this thread

http://community.cartalk.com/discussion/2287297/1990-toyota-pickup-4x4-manual-transmission-difficulties-trouble-shifting-into-1st-from-a-dead-stop

hit your throwout bearing with a bunch of wd-40 and see if that helps. do you get a vibration from the clutch?

this link work?
http://community.cartalk.com/discuss...om-a-dead-stop

clutch still lightly engaged
 

My truck has done this ever since I got it 2 years ago. But it's temperamental. Sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't. Even after New aisin mc and slave. I get half inch of travel on the clutch fork so the hydraulics seem good. On its good days, from a stop, I press clutch and lightly move stick to reverse. I hear the input shaft softly click to a stop and it slips in. Into first I press clutch and immediately and smoothly move stick Into first. Sometimes it does a double click, click during its movement into first but mostly smooth.

On its bad days I'll press clutch and reverse Will grind without the input shaft stopping. Indicating that the clutch is still biting. I have to in smooth sequence press clutch, put in 2nd and quickly into reverse. It's usually smooth or very light grind with this method. 1st behaves the same as on its good days

I bled and bled my hydraulics thinking that was the problem but half inch of fork travel is correct so not the problem. Perhaps in your case the hydraulics are the problem. Try pumping the clutch pedal a few times and see if it makes a improvement. If so you may have air in your lines

I still don't know why it happens sometimes and sometimes not. Maybe some debris between clutch plate and fly wheel? In any case it drives great and shifts like butter while moving. Clutch doesn't slip and begins engaging about half way off the floor. The only noise I get from my trans is a slight whirring noise when I let off the gas in 4th from about 2200 rpm coasting down to 1700. L52 was rebuilt by a reputable trans shop 9000 miles ago.

Where in your clutch pedals release does it start to bite? Close to floor or top? Oh and 1st and reverse have no synchros. Straight cut gear so if input shaft is spinning, shifting into either will grind.

in your case i would also suspect the bearing might be grabbing, or the pilot bearing. usually whaen theere is a disc problem you get a chatter, or pressure plate problem will squeal some. if the wd-40 does not alleviate the problem, then it might be the pilot bearing. btw, only wd40 works for this, as it flashes off rather quickly to prevent damage. other oils like pb or kr-oil, and of course other oils like engine oil/gear oil/atf, etc might do damage or cause slippage burning/sludge and so on. the automotive clutches are brakeless systems, so you have the inertia all the time, but it's like under 10lb rotational mass, so it's easily managed, but it still should sit spinning free in the pilot bearing once released, the same way a front brake disc does when you are not applying it. come to think of it, it's rare, but the pressure plate disc could get hung up sometimes on the pins. you could lube those as a second step, but it is quite rare, and should transfer into the fingers and make the pilot hub squeal.

I would suspect your slave cylinder may not be letting the fork move all the to the front of the truck/transmission. You can get under the truck and see if it has a lot of forward movement.

On the back of the Master Cylinder, you can loosen a nut and make the push rod push a little more forward by adjusting it which will/should make it disengage.

Check that the clutch pedal bracket isn't cracked. It's a fairly common issue.