snickell

My exhaust manifold's mating surface is pretty rasty after removing the gasket with a razorblade.

Is this normal for a 22RE, or do I need to get a new manifold to avoid really bad exhaust leaks? Other folks who did a H/G, did you find that your exhaust manifold's mating-to-head surface was clean, or was it also rasty?

snickell

I should mention that I'm both time and $ strapped at this point, but if its a really bad idea to put this exhaust manifold back on, I can do it.

snickell

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snickell

Maybe I should run steel wool over it?

dhall50

I took mine to a motor shop and they sanded mine flat(slightly warped) and it came back nice and shiny. $30 I think.

snickell

Thanks, good idea, I found a machine shop that'll mill mine for $25.

I have to replace a bunch of the exhaust manifold studs - too rusted to get nuts on them.

I can't find torque specifications for the studs themselves in the FSM, and I'm not sure how I'd use a torque wrench to get a stud in anyway (only way I know is to use big ol' vicegrips). But I'm pretty nervous about stripping out the head.

Any suggestions on how to replace an exhaust manifold stud, how hard to torque them, etc? I'm feeling pretty clueless about this.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Hey, you don't have to torque the studs in real tight. I personally use a jamnut method -- take two hex nuts (not the locking kind), thread them onto the outer end of the stud, and tighten them against each other pretty snug. Then thread the stud in and snug it in there, but not real hard, maybe 20 ft-lb at most (if you can gauge that). Then undo the two nuts and take them off.

When you install the manifold and tighten the nuts down (spec is 33 ft-lb IIRC), it puts tension on the stud and therefore the stud threads into the head, so it hold it into the head. I have heard of studs sometimes only needing to be twisted in by hand.

I also put anti-seize liberally on the outer portion of the stud so the nut doesn't rust onto the stud. Then after a few heat-up/cool-down cycles check the torque again.

scope103

I can't find anything in the FSM about replacing exhaust manifold studs. I can't even tell you that they are threaded studs, or are pressed-in-place.

Torquing them (if they are threaded and you can find a spec) just involves putting on two nuts, tightening them against each other, than using the torque wrench on the outer nut.

Removing the studs (if they are threaded) would be a little hair-raising. I would worry most about breaking one off (they are really rusty, you say); then you'll be stuck with drilling a steel stud out of an aluminum block.

Since I couldn't help at all, if I were you I'd ask the folks at the machine shop that plans to mill the head.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

They are threaded studs.

Soak the old ones in PB blaster and hope they come out! If you break them or strip out the threads, they can be helicoiled and it's not too hard to do.

sam333

use the method suggested above( for install) to remove them also. Use new nuts and run them down as far as you can on the stud( as long as it is an area with good threads.
Jam the heck out of the two nuts before you try to turn out the stud. You can also use a stud puller. Use vise grips only as a last resort. You got to get them out, so if they break they break and then you will learn how to drill out studs . I have done tons of these ( drilling out steel studs in aluminum) , just take your time and you will get it.

snickell

Just wanted to report success on the studs. Got them out without major difficulties. tnx all.

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

If you're already going to the dealer for new studs and nuts then you should pick up some FIPG to use. I'm guessing that a dab of that should help to assist your HG in this instance. I'm not 100% on this but I know Toyota FIPG is some of the best liquid gasket maker out there.

Btw, please don't go and use vicegrips to put on your exhaust nuts. And I believe the exhaust nuts are one-time use nuts because of the way they're designed to lock into place (at least this is what I was told)...this is why they came out with the stud still attached.