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- Toyota Tacoma How to Replace Fuel Pump<br>Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs.
Do I have to take the tank out for replacing fuel pump in 90 truck?
08-31-2010, 05:56 AM
#5
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the bed might be "easiest" but if your from the north like I am and the bed is rusted to heck, then getting those bolts off for the bed might be a PITA and could very well just tear apart the bed mounts on the bed itself like mine did when I removed mine to get rid of it. I would much rather deal with the broken hardware on the gas tank than try to fab up something for a bed mount to hold the bed down. Especially if your like me and don't know how to weld.
08-31-2010, 06:01 AM
#6
Registered User
Ive heard removing the bed is easiest, but on my 90 4runner its was really easy to take my tank down. Just used a hydraulic floor jack and a 4x4 to support it. Just be careful with the sending unit wire, mine was really short and I nearly broke it taking down the tank... Luckily I saw it before it broke!
08-31-2010, 07:17 AM
#7
Registered User
For MY truck, I prefer to remove the bed to access the fuel pump. My truck has little rust, and does not have a cap.
I agree with the previos poster that you may not want to remove the bed if you have a lot of rust on the bed mount areas.
I agree with the previos poster that you may not want to remove the bed if you have a lot of rust on the bed mount areas.
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08-31-2010, 09:38 AM
#9
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you could always do it it like we used to do with the older fords and cut a hole in the flooring in the bed and do it that way and then make a patch panel out of what you cut out to pop in it's place. 
08-31-2010, 04:08 PM
#10
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i have a 90 model and had to pull my pump, taking the bed off is pretty easy, removing the tank isnt that bad especially since you have a drain plug on the tank.
just whatever you prefer to do really, neither is hard, just watch all your electrical wires if you remove the bed..
if you drop the tank, watch your wires going to it.
if you have any ?'s post em up...
just whatever you prefer to do really, neither is hard, just watch all your electrical wires if you remove the bed..
if you drop the tank, watch your wires going to it.
if you have any ?'s post em up...
08-31-2010, 08:56 PM
#13
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i have a 90 model and had to pull my pump, taking the bed off is pretty easy, removing the tank isnt that bad especially since you have a drain plug on the tank.
just whatever you prefer to do really, neither is hard, just watch all your electrical wires if you remove the bed..
if you drop the tank, watch your wires going to it.
if you have any ?'s post em up...
just whatever you prefer to do really, neither is hard, just watch all your electrical wires if you remove the bed..
if you drop the tank, watch your wires going to it.
if you have any ?'s post em up...
09-01-2010, 07:43 PM
#14
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hey nw-yota, this is my 2nd yota first one ive done much work too.
When i was getting ready to drop my tank, i spotted this bolt, i was like no way, this is going to be so easy...
sure enough, unbolt that bolt. and rush of gas comes out. making it so much lighter, just remember to vent your gas cap, as it helped it drain more efficiently
When i was getting ready to drop my tank, i spotted this bolt, i was like no way, this is going to be so easy...
sure enough, unbolt that bolt. and rush of gas comes out. making it so much lighter, just remember to vent your gas cap, as it helped it drain more efficiently
09-01-2010, 09:44 PM
#15
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I was enlightened to the removing the bed option only after I'd changed out my fuel pump. Instead I got underneath and unbolted the gas tank skid and gas tank. Aside from the bolts holding the bed to your frame all you should have to disconnect is your taillight wiring.
Be careful with your hard fuel lines, they can bend and break pretty easily but all in, it wasn't too difficult a job to do. I also swapped out the rusted up Phillips screws holding the fuel filler line on and replaced them with bolts.
I knew my fuel pump was going by trial and error when I was having a very hard time getting my truck to start. A knock with a hammer handle to the side of the fuel tank would occasionally remedy the situation for a few starts.
Be careful with your hard fuel lines, they can bend and break pretty easily but all in, it wasn't too difficult a job to do. I also swapped out the rusted up Phillips screws holding the fuel filler line on and replaced them with bolts.
I knew my fuel pump was going by trial and error when I was having a very hard time getting my truck to start. A knock with a hammer handle to the side of the fuel tank would occasionally remedy the situation for a few starts.
09-01-2010, 11:12 PM
#16
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The pump is fine, truck gets no spark. Seller didn't know better.
To answer the person who asked how to check the pump, there's two pins you short out on the diagnostic connector to make it run continuously.
To answer the person who asked how to check the pump, there's two pins you short out on the diagnostic connector to make it run continuously.
09-02-2010, 03:46 AM
#17
Registered User
Don't forget about the fuel filler neck !!! and the license plate light(s) if your plate is attached to the bed and not the bumper.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 09-02-2010 at 03:47 AM.
09-02-2010, 01:03 PM
#18
Registered User
Also, removing the bed is nice because it lets you really inspect the frame. Before last winter I had the bed off mine (I'm at about 180k miles). Was a PITA to get off even though I had it off only two years prior to that and it came off easily back then.
I took the opportunity to replace the fuel tank, all the fuel lines, pump bracket, install a Tru-trac V6 rear, sand and paint the frame, and weld shut a tiny little hole in the frame. Well worth the effort.
09-02-2010, 02:12 PM
#20
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