*23

so i finally got tired of the idle bump and decided the tps had to go. upon replacing it, the idle came on at about 2500 because i installed the tps at too much of an angle and the butterfly was open. so i rotated the tps backand the idle bump is still there. will unplugging the battery reset everything or is the tps now set to the wrong position?

RMA

you have to adjust it , cant just buy one and put it on , like brake pads or something.

here is a link thanks to 4crawler
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

iamsuperbleeder

the TPS, in no way shape or form, even it not calibrated correctly, should NEVER make the butterfly valve open

if it does, it's installed wrong

*23

im terrified of this proceedure. i know nothing of my voltometer. im sure its probly the lack of calibration causing the problems but i just dont really get this tps thing. this is the first electrical issue ive had and im a little welmed

arielb1

Boy, sounds like you are in a world of hurt.

I spent a week reading tons of posting before I attempted my first TPS. Search arielb1 and you can read the Interpreting my TPS figures. Many gave me advise, but OutlawMike really spelled it out for me. I read the 4crawler link 5 times till is started to make sense. Call friends and neighbors if you dont know how to use the multimeter.

I will give you quick overview.

1. I can help you, but you dont live in Los Angeles. Otherwise a Budlight would do.
2. Since you dont have experience, then you need to remove the throttle body off the engine. Nice to have FSM for this and new gasket.
3. Ohm meter or multimeter and feeler gauge are a must.
4. Know exactly where to put the feeler gauge. Throttle stop is just a screw and a bolt attached to it.
5. Set ohm meter to OHM 2K or 2000. This is easier to read and no conversion needed.
6. Take lots of pictures before disassembly. Hope you have a torque wrench.

I'm still mechanically green, but I have learned so much. My new TPS has been in for 300+ miles now. My rpm does not bump up and down anymore, but I still have 1000 rpm idle. Hope this helps.

Oh, one more thing...anything electrical, Im always very careful with. I try to do all my research before hand.

*23

ok so, i should have probly stated first that i just tore tthe 22re apart and did the head gasket the night of breaking the tps. im not a total newb, i just had a bad incident with a soldering iron once and just have a mild electronics phobia....on the up side after a night of reading the http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml like 8x i went at it today attached to the truck. that link rules! i dialed it in and have now wander it to a whole new mess. the idle doesnt bounce any more, its steady at 2200 rpm. tried bridging te1/e1 knocked it down to like 1600. and there she stayed. drove down the idle screw too(which is now causing the brake/idle drop,which brings it to a bouncin 1000 1200 range) so i could get in gear and get home and now i am so totally confused. i spent an hour adjusting the tps and im fealing rather confident about my adjustments..did i boof again, is this still tps related? i've checked vacume lines, coolant is full and clean. i am missing a bold from the siemese port causing exhaust leak and will weld that peice tomorrow but am not sure02 sensor readings would cause an idle to hang at 1600. thank you thus farly yall are awesome.

*23

if i disconnect the tps my idle bumps to 3000. is this an indication of anything?