Detroit TrueTrac / Front IFS Questions
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Detroit TrueTrac / Front IFS Questions
Thought about doing a SAS, and doing the electric lockers front and rear (I love that idea) but promised myself if I went through the trouble of SAS I was going portal, and don't want to waste money on the stock rear for a selectable locker until or if I deside to go that route.
I currently have the v6 with 33s, and a lockrite out back. I'd like to lock the front, but still have some controlability in ice and snow. The trutrac is much more affordable for the 7.5 than it was my 14 bolt and dana 60 previously. Someone said not to use it with anything larger than 33s though, and I want to go up to 36s. anyone had any experience?
Also, while I'm down there, there were reminants of a guide of things you could do to where you can replace the front axles through the hub in a short time without taking the tire off by replacing some rings with bolts or something. Anyone know what I'm talking about? If I run larger tires and locked I'd like to be able to fix myself fairly easy.
Thanks guys!
I currently have the v6 with 33s, and a lockrite out back. I'd like to lock the front, but still have some controlability in ice and snow. The trutrac is much more affordable for the 7.5 than it was my 14 bolt and dana 60 previously. Someone said not to use it with anything larger than 33s though, and I want to go up to 36s. anyone had any experience?
Also, while I'm down there, there were reminants of a guide of things you could do to where you can replace the front axles through the hub in a short time without taking the tire off by replacing some rings with bolts or something. Anyone know what I'm talking about? If I run larger tires and locked I'd like to be able to fix myself fairly easy.
Thanks guys!
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Also I had an aussie in the front of a dana 44 rig, not sure if i like the idea of that kind of locker in the front?
EDIT also how does the truetrac compare to a supra lsd?
EDIT also how does the truetrac compare to a supra lsd?
Last edited by MrArmyAnt; 02-10-2008 at 05:40 PM.
#3
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First off, the True trac has nothing to do with the tire size. That recommendation is for the IFS. It is just that, a recommendation. Bigger than 33's will increase the possibility of breaking CV axles. 33's are pretty safe, 35's are less so, 36 and up, even less so. It can and has been done by many people, its just a guideline. You will have to decide based upon what sort of wheeling you do, and how hard you are on the gas.
Second, if you are going to SAS, just do that. The true trac won't help you really at all off road. Some in sandy, or muddy places, but it will be the same as an open diff for lifting tires. Plus, sounds like you REALLY want a SAS. You have the rear, just save for the swap. You won't be able to sell this for nearly what you put into it when you do.
Lastly, the modification has nothing to do with rings. On the stub axles coming out of the diff, there are threaded studs. You press those out, and replace them with grade 8 or better hardware. This enables you to change a front axle, with a little practice, in about 15 minutes, give or take. You do not need to take off the wheel, or jack the truck up.
Good luck
Second, if you are going to SAS, just do that. The true trac won't help you really at all off road. Some in sandy, or muddy places, but it will be the same as an open diff for lifting tires. Plus, sounds like you REALLY want a SAS. You have the rear, just save for the swap. You won't be able to sell this for nearly what you put into it when you do.
Lastly, the modification has nothing to do with rings. On the stub axles coming out of the diff, there are threaded studs. You press those out, and replace them with grade 8 or better hardware. This enables you to change a front axle, with a little practice, in about 15 minutes, give or take. You do not need to take off the wheel, or jack the truck up.
Good luck
Last edited by AxleIke; 02-10-2008 at 05:42 PM.
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I can't really see how an LSD will be the same as an open diff. An LSD will always be better than an open diff offroad as far as I can see.
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I run mostly in a river bed, that is all sand, with lots of 2-4 ft deep quick sand. Also I here of people tapping brakes to get it engaged? I am thinking about putting a throttle on the stick like I did my k5, so I can clutch, gas, and brake at the same time.
Is there a guide on the stub axles anywhere?
Is there a guide on the stub axles anywhere?
#7
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In the sand, it will help.
As for the stub axles, I don't know of a write up, but it is very simple. If/when you pull the diff to put the locker/LSD in, you have to pop the stub axles out. All they take is a few gentle raps with a hammer to unseat the axle clips. Out they slide. Set a vise up so that you can fit the head of the stud between the jaws, but so the axle flange can rest on jaws. Couple good whacks from a small sledge will pop them right out. Replace with bolts.
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#8
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FYI : the Trutrac is an EATON product, not Detroit.
Next up, IF you decide to go with the Trutrac be sure to WELD the heads of the bolts to the case. If you don't they can come out and destroy the entire chunk & axles.
As others mentioned, w/ one tire lifted the TruTrac is not much different than an open. Good onroad, not so hot offroad. In a AWD type of application in the snow or wet they rock. Hardcore offroad, not so much.
Next up, IF you decide to go with the Trutrac be sure to WELD the heads of the bolts to the case. If you don't they can come out and destroy the entire chunk & axles.
As others mentioned, w/ one tire lifted the TruTrac is not much different than an open. Good onroad, not so hot offroad. In a AWD type of application in the snow or wet they rock. Hardcore offroad, not so much.
Last edited by MonsterMaxx; 02-10-2008 at 09:46 PM.
#11
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None of the above pertains in any way whatsoever to a live axle truck.
So, the answer is no. If you break an axle, it will take you significantly longer to change.
Last edited by AxleIke; 02-10-2008 at 10:42 PM.
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