CV Boots.....done!
 

After driving and wheeling with duct tape inner CV boots for almost 6 months, I finally replaced them with OEM boots.
It took about 1.5 hours per side. All I did was remove the tires and manual hubs. I then removed the C-clip and the bolts that attach the axle to the diff. Then by raising the lower A-arm I was able to pull the axle out.
I put the axles on a piece of scap wood and replaced the inner boots, that was a messy job.
Now I am ready to wheel, and no duct tape. Except the roll I keep in my toolbox.

hey marc!

did you have any trouble getting past the sway bar/shock parts? im going to have to do the passenger side in the spring, unless it goes to hell in a hand basket before then. ill change the bolts or grind off the splines where they attach to the diff flange for an easier time if i need to change one on the trail. thanks for any suggestions.

lee

I have no swaybar, and the shocks where no problem. I should have done the grinding and drilling to make it easier, but I didnt.

I actually just finished replacing my inner and outer cv boots on my 96. It was relatively easy, just messy! I couldn't find a decent write-up so I kinda went with the Haynes Manual approach but it ended up being really easy.

1. Jack up front, remove tires, remove front brake calipers and rotors.
** At the point if you have a front sway bar ( i dont ) remove it. ***
2. Unbolt the 4 bolt flange that holds the steering knuckle to the lower a-arm.
3. Pry off the clamps holding the old boots.
4. Pull the axle shaft/tripod joint out from the differential.
5. Pry off the large C-clip holding the tripod joint on the splines. Then tap off the tripod joint.. being careful not to damage the bearings inside.
6. slide the old boots/clamps off the axle. First slide the outer boot on from the end of the axle that the tripod joint was attatched at. Attatch the outer clamp and pack the boot with the brown grease included in the Toyota cv boot kit. Attatch both clamps on the outer boot.
7. slide the new inner boot on. Wait to pack it with grease.
8. Tap the tripod joint back onto the axle spline and put on a new large c-clip ( included in the kit ).
9. Now, pack the inner boot/tripod joint with grey grease (from kit).
10. Slide the axle assembly back into the differential
11. Bolt on the 4 bolts holding the steering knuckle flange onto the lower a-arm.
12. Re install the front brake rotors/calipers (be careful not to kink the brake line... WHOOPS!)
**reinstall your sway bar and wheels, lower the vehicle and go for a test drive (in 4 wheel drive)**

Wow, my axles didn't come out so "easily." I had to take the swaybar links off (but not because they were in the way) and the shock bolts out, but when I put the shock bolts back in I reversed them (nuts forward) so they wouldn't have to come out again. Getting the axle to slide out was the hard part, I couldn't lift the lower arm enough without unbolting the swaybar. Then it was pretty easy. The first time was a beeyatch, but I"ve done it 3x in the past 6 months, so I'm getting good. (Not for boot replacement though, I was trial and error eliminating front end issues and doing maintenance. They're all gone now - new axles worked wonders!) I bought new axles complete, with boots and lubed, for $66 ea at Car Quest, lifetime guaranteed even the boots. Betcha paid more than that for OEM boots...

I actually bought reman axles a few months ago for like $60. a piece, but the first time out wheeling both inner boots ripped. I replaced with oem boots. I think the boots that come on some of those axles are cheap.

I get the OEM boot kit for about $30, so half the price of a whole axle.

I wonder if the BJ spacers made it easier to remove the axle, marc?

The "trick" turned out to be, first disconnect the swaybar, then put the jack under the lower ball joint nuts (i.e. as far outboard as you can get it) to gain the leverage to lift the lower arm enough. If you lift the lower arm enough, the axles just slides right on out. If you don't get that extra leverage, the whole truck lifts before the suspension moves enough. I could do it again quickly now!

You know, my trick is the opposite of that. I disconnect the shocks and sway bar ( I have QDs) and remove the upper bumpstop. Then I jack up the frame and let the A-arms droop as much as possible. With at least 2 of the CV studs removed, the axle can slide out easily.

My goal next time is 30 minutes...I have no idea if I can do it, but that's my goal. I'm not even going to remove the tire. That brings up another idea, for your way, if more leverage is better, instead of jacking it up by the ball joint, leave the tire on and lower the truck to the ground.

hey steve!

if i understand you correctly, i tried doing that with the old 86. i had one hellova time trying to get the axle past the flange on the diff. i ended up taking the front diff assy out, it had to come out anyway as i had it sold. it looks like no matter which way you do it, its a pita.

lee

Did you remove the bumpstop? That's key.

We'll see. I have to repair a CV before Feb so I'll let you guys know how it goes.

hahaha, youre kidding, right?
 

they were so rusted in place the only way the were coming out was with an air chisel! i tried getting the coupling at the axle to slide down so i could pull it in towards the front diff but there wasnt enough play. even with the diff loose, it wouldnt move enough to get it out.

take a video of the job when you do it, transfer it onto a cd/dvd and ill buy it from you!

lee

Are OEM boots the best even with the BJ spacers?

I installed BJ spacers about two weeks ago and didn't switch over to manual hubs fast enough b/c the Aisins I bought were for a solid axle and I had to wait to get correct parts. Anyway, the passenger side inner CV boot tore this past week. This weekend I put on the Aisins and I have the torn boot covered in plastic & duct taped to keep out the elements.

question....
 

quick question...if I were to have a complete CV halfshaft assy the steps would be like THIS correct?

no hub nut?

thanks,
aaron

i think you could/did eliminate step 8 as you are replacing the entire axle. as for the hub bolt & washer, if you took them off, put them back on when you are done.

lee

Can someone tell me if replacing the boots on 3rd gen 4runner will be the same as 2nd gen? I know the axles are different but are the cv joints the same as far as disasembly? Only can find write ups for 2nd gen as far as boot replacement goes, I did find axle removal for 3rd gen but does not cover boot replacement. And yes I did search and search so if the write up is out there please provide a link and not just yell me to search. I have 96 4Runner with a leaky boot not torn but just leaking out the end so I bought a salvage yard axle from a 2002 4Runner and want to replace the boots on it before installing it on the 4Runner. When all is done I will have one spare axle ready to go. Thanks your help will be greatly appreciated. Happy Yota Trails!

To be sure - what year are you working on here? a 1996 4R *is* a 3rd gen - as a 2002 4R - so these are interchangeable - if the boots look good on the 2002 CV shaft - just put that one in - don't mess with the boots, it's too much of a PITA.

-aaron

Yeah I hear you. Most of the time you search, you just get a bunch of threads that say "search". Its pretty annoying.

With the CV axle replacement, here is a good writeup:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/cv_axle/

Of course, you wont have manual hubs. Just a dust sheild will be in that place. With the black circular dust shield, you just have to pry it off with a thin screw-driver. Often this part takes me the longest!!! :)

You'll also need a 36mm socket to get the axle hub nut off. After that, you pretty much take 4 bolts off from the bottom of the spindle, to move it off of the CV, and pop the CV out of the diff with a crow bar or large screwdriver. To free the CV from the spindle, just whack the outer end with a rubber mallet. To prevent the axle from turning when trying to remove the axle nut, either have the truck in 4x4, (properly supported) or have someone push down on the brakes.

After you do it once, it will probably take you 20 minutes tops. First time may take you 2-3 hours.

Thanks SC4Runner I have that one printed out, but what I am looking for is a good write up on breaking the cv axles down to replace the boots. Amorphous thanks for the opinion on the boots but I now have three axles and will be putting new boots on all three so as to have a good spare, removing the axle and reinstalling is also a PITA so I will be reinstalling with new boots. My referance to the 2nd gen 4Runner was in regard to breaking down the axle for boot replacement as I can only find a write up for breaking down 2nd gen axles and need to know if 2nd and 3rd gen axles are the same only in regard to breaking down the cvs for boot replacement, I know the axles are differant I also have a 1st and 2nd gen 4runners but the 1996 3rd gen is fairly new to me. Need a good write up on boot replacement for the 3rd gen if it is different. Thanks for your help.

I ran into the issue with my cv boots as well, one side ripped right away and the other took about two weeks, now they are making some horrible noises. But I have to wait to replace them till I get manual hub. Getting those should reduce my chance of boot ripping right? Also could a worn cv cause lots of vibrasion in the wheel and a rough ride, also, almost like a binding when trying to go in 4wd?
Thanks guys