Cost of going from stock to lifted.
#1
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Cost of going from stock to lifted.
I have a 1994 extended cab V6 3.0. I have had it for about twelve years. She is holding strong at 175K miles. I just put in a clutch about four months ago.
I am getting to a point soon where I need to be considering new tires. My Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armors have done pretty well, but now are getting a bit long-in-the-tooth, sort of speak. I am currently running 31x10.5x15s. They replaced some other brand or another in the same size. When I got them, I told the guy that I didn't want them to rub. He said that my truck would be fine with the same size tire. I couldn't see it, and was right. It's not too big a deal or anything, but it has me thinking for my next purchase.
If I changed nothing else, but maybe went to a narrower tire, shouldn't that solve some of the rub to the flaps done mostly through extreme turning or compression?
Isn't there a simple Toyota factory 2" suspension lift that would not require changing a lot of other components? Part of me would like a nice 4" lift, but I just bought a house, and this thing can eat money faster than I can make it.
This is my DD and I put a fair amount of highway miles back and forth between Seattle and Tacoma. I don't do a lot of wheeling at the moment, but I take her out on trails now and again.
I am getting to a point soon where I need to be considering new tires. My Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armors have done pretty well, but now are getting a bit long-in-the-tooth, sort of speak. I am currently running 31x10.5x15s. They replaced some other brand or another in the same size. When I got them, I told the guy that I didn't want them to rub. He said that my truck would be fine with the same size tire. I couldn't see it, and was right. It's not too big a deal or anything, but it has me thinking for my next purchase.
If I changed nothing else, but maybe went to a narrower tire, shouldn't that solve some of the rub to the flaps done mostly through extreme turning or compression?
Isn't there a simple Toyota factory 2" suspension lift that would not require changing a lot of other components? Part of me would like a nice 4" lift, but I just bought a house, and this thing can eat money faster than I can make it.
This is my DD and I put a fair amount of highway miles back and forth between Seattle and Tacoma. I don't do a lot of wheeling at the moment, but I take her out on trails now and again.
#3
Registered User
Check the FAQs, its all in there.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...tickys-242840/
33s will fit stock if you trim the pinch weld. Rim off set and tire width matters, staying narrow helps.
Ball joint spacers and a add a leaf will get you 2". Larger tires may mean lower gears. Start researching!
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...tickys-242840/
33s will fit stock if you trim the pinch weld. Rim off set and tire width matters, staying narrow helps.
Ball joint spacers and a add a leaf will get you 2". Larger tires may mean lower gears. Start researching!
Last edited by rattlewagon; 10-17-2014 at 06:16 AM.
#4
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Thread Starter
Ultimately, I would like to get a lift. I know that once you start getting into 33" tires you really should do the regearing thing. So besides doing the full lift now, should I just try a narrower tire? If there was a simple shock replacement that would give me a little more clearance, I could go that route as well.
#6
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Thread Starter
#7
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Road Bull, which lift do you think you'd want/need? If you're just thinking of a couple inches and that's it, Rattlewagon was correct that you'll just want ball joint spacers plus longer shocks for the front, and either an add a leaf or Old Man Emu leafs plus longer shocks for the rear(depends on if you're wanting to carry extra weight, mostly, as the OME leafs are good load carrying).
31x10.5r15 should fit without rubbing...if the wheels are correct. When I purchased my Runner, it had some aftermarket wheels with only 3.5" or so backspacing and the worn out, bald 31's on it would rub the back of the front fenderwell. When I got new tires I also got some wheels with 4.5" backspacing and there was no more rubbing. For a good long while after I installed ball joint spacers, the front would not rub with 33x10.5r15's and the same 4.5" backspacing. That was after some massaging of the fenderwell at the pinch weld, though.
As for regearing with 33's, I would recommend it, but it's not absolutely necessary to do it right away. When I went to 33's, I had already done the 3.4 swap, so I couldn't really tell you how bad the performance would be, but I will say that I now have 35's with the stock gearing and 3.4, and it's not bad. Actually kind of nice at hwy speeds, since I can get 22 mpg under ideal circumstances, and better if I'm only cruising at 45 or so(backroads I take to work that are about 7 miles, cruising at 45 I can get 25 mpg).
31x10.5r15 should fit without rubbing...if the wheels are correct. When I purchased my Runner, it had some aftermarket wheels with only 3.5" or so backspacing and the worn out, bald 31's on it would rub the back of the front fenderwell. When I got new tires I also got some wheels with 4.5" backspacing and there was no more rubbing. For a good long while after I installed ball joint spacers, the front would not rub with 33x10.5r15's and the same 4.5" backspacing. That was after some massaging of the fenderwell at the pinch weld, though.
As for regearing with 33's, I would recommend it, but it's not absolutely necessary to do it right away. When I went to 33's, I had already done the 3.4 swap, so I couldn't really tell you how bad the performance would be, but I will say that I now have 35's with the stock gearing and 3.4, and it's not bad. Actually kind of nice at hwy speeds, since I can get 22 mpg under ideal circumstances, and better if I'm only cruising at 45 or so(backroads I take to work that are about 7 miles, cruising at 45 I can get 25 mpg).
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#8
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Thread Starter
Road Bull, which lift do you think you'd want/need? If you're just thinking of a couple inches and that's it, Rattlewagon was correct that you'll just want ball joint spacers plus longer shocks for the front, and either an add a leaf or Old Man Emu leafs plus longer shocks for the rear(depends on if you're wanting to carry extra weight, mostly, as the OME leafs are good load carrying).
31x10.5r15 should fit without rubbing...if the wheels are correct. When I purchased my Runner, it had some aftermarket wheels with only 3.5" or so backspacing and the worn out, bald 31's on it would rub the back of the front fenderwell. When I got new tires I also got some wheels with 4.5" backspacing and there was no more rubbing. For a good long while after I installed ball joint spacers, the front would not rub with 33x10.5r15's and the same 4.5" backspacing. That was after some massaging of the fenderwell at the pinch weld, though.
As for regearing with 33's, I would recommend it, but it's not absolutely necessary to do it right away. When I went to 33's, I had already done the 3.4 swap, so I couldn't really tell you how bad the performance would be, but I will say that I now have 35's with the stock gearing and 3.4, and it's not bad. Actually kind of nice at hwy speeds, since I can get 22 mpg under ideal circumstances, and better if I'm only cruising at 45 or so(backroads I take to work that are about 7 miles, cruising at 45 I can get 25 mpg).
31x10.5r15 should fit without rubbing...if the wheels are correct. When I purchased my Runner, it had some aftermarket wheels with only 3.5" or so backspacing and the worn out, bald 31's on it would rub the back of the front fenderwell. When I got new tires I also got some wheels with 4.5" backspacing and there was no more rubbing. For a good long while after I installed ball joint spacers, the front would not rub with 33x10.5r15's and the same 4.5" backspacing. That was after some massaging of the fenderwell at the pinch weld, though.
As for regearing with 33's, I would recommend it, but it's not absolutely necessary to do it right away. When I went to 33's, I had already done the 3.4 swap, so I couldn't really tell you how bad the performance would be, but I will say that I now have 35's with the stock gearing and 3.4, and it's not bad. Actually kind of nice at hwy speeds, since I can get 22 mpg under ideal circumstances, and better if I'm only cruising at 45 or so(backroads I take to work that are about 7 miles, cruising at 45 I can get 25 mpg).
Thanks for the responses guys.
So for now, I think I just want enough for clean clearance for 31x10.5x15s. I know that is supposed to work just fine, and maybe it's the flaps, or maybe the shocks haven't been changed since 1994. Or could be a combination of both factors.
This is my daily driver, so in reality, I wont be doing heavy off roading in it. Trails, sure, but for now this is my only transportation. If the money was not an issue, I would just get the 4" lift, get it regeard, as well as 33" tires.
But for now, I am leaning on a modest lift for clean clearance so that I am not rubbing hard on turns into driveways and extreme turning. I think I could use some new updated shocks too. As far as I know, they are original factory. Our roads here in Washington leave a lot to be desired. You definitely know you are driving a truck when you hit some 8"x15" 3" deep hole in I-5. It's enough to shake your fillings loose. I don't do a lot of heavy hauling. I might be picking up a canopy sometime soon, but if I am hauling stuff, it will be musical equipment.
My realization that I will need new tires soon has got me thinking about my setup a bit. I have had pretty good luck with my Goodyears, but I am open to suggestions that work well in lots of rain too.
Last edited by Road Bull; 10-17-2014 at 07:06 PM.
#9
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I've got 33x10.5R15 BFG At's with no lift at all, slight pinch weld modification and the rub is gone. You just need wheels with proper backspacing. As for gearing, the 4.10s have been great with them. Sure it's slow, but at least it cruises with the other cars on the flat and downhill parts of the highway. I had 31x10.5s on the same wheels before and they never rubbed, even fully articulated.
If you're going with 31's no lift necessary. If you're going with 33's get some narrower ones (severly limits your choices on 15" rims) and a cheap lift option is BJ spacers + aal's, ZUK, or small blocks.
There's always Old Man Emu .. very cost effective and awesome from what I've heard. I would love this system on my truck.
For me, I believe it looks silly having a 4" lift with anything smaller than 35s. And if you want to do it right you are looking at extended brake lines, new leaf springs, shocks and a bracket lift or a solid axle swap + re-gearing with either option... point is it is not cost effective.
Now that I'm rambling, I might as well throw one more option out there: a set of 30x9.5" aggressive tires and new, high-quality shocks all around. This is what I would go with if I had to do it again on a DD. Once you put big meats on your truck you'll likely accelerate the wear on all of your steering and suspension ball joints and end up having to replace everything in those systems as well.
If you're going with 31's no lift necessary. If you're going with 33's get some narrower ones (severly limits your choices on 15" rims) and a cheap lift option is BJ spacers + aal's, ZUK, or small blocks.
There's always Old Man Emu .. very cost effective and awesome from what I've heard. I would love this system on my truck.
For me, I believe it looks silly having a 4" lift with anything smaller than 35s. And if you want to do it right you are looking at extended brake lines, new leaf springs, shocks and a bracket lift or a solid axle swap + re-gearing with either option... point is it is not cost effective.
Now that I'm rambling, I might as well throw one more option out there: a set of 30x9.5" aggressive tires and new, high-quality shocks all around. This is what I would go with if I had to do it again on a DD. Once you put big meats on your truck you'll likely accelerate the wear on all of your steering and suspension ball joints and end up having to replace everything in those systems as well.
#10
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