Confusion with my yota!
04-26-2016, 06:04 PM
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Confusion with my yota!
So i currently have a 1992 pickup with the 3.0 3vz motor. i bought it last year sometime from a buddy. but on the test drive i noticed the check engine light came on. i didnt recall it being on the whole time. and i asked about it and he said he thought it was a bad 02 sensor causing the check engine light. but after a bunch of people asked me why my truck sounded funny, like it had a miss i had to investigate. i thought it was a normal yota thing. but i pulled a wire from the distributor to see if anything happend and the first try i found a miss. so i pulled the plug and connected the compression tester. and i had 0 psi in the cylinder. only running on 5 cylinders? would a 02 sensor do that? id oubt it but i never know. any help would be much appreciated
if you read this and somthing dont make sense mention it and ill try to explain a little better. would really like to figure it out. thanks
if you read this and somthing dont make sense mention it and ill try to explain a little better. would really like to figure it out. thanks
04-26-2016, 06:35 PM
#2
Haha...no.
The only thing that would do that is a valve not fully closing. My guess an exhaust valve. That's what you get for not adjusting your valve clearances. Not you of course. The shipdit you bought it from.
The only thing that would do that is a valve not fully closing. My guess an exhaust valve. That's what you get for not adjusting your valve clearances. Not you of course. The shipdit you bought it from.
04-26-2016, 07:20 PM
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sounds like he got the better end of the deal then. i mean its not horrible but i just dont have much power or good gas milage. im looking into buying another motor for it. what would be the proper way to fix this problem? i can get my hands on a new motor but its out of an 88 4 runner. will that drop into my 92 pickup? there both the 3.0 would i need different wiring and stuff? or would it be easire to replace the valves in the bad motor?
04-26-2016, 07:39 PM
#5
It depends. You might be able to get away with rebuilding the head(s). Or buying a new head. But until you pull it apart it's a guessing game. The 88 will work but you'll need to make a hybrid. There's a list of 88 parts that won't work with the 92 ECU. No biggie. But you need to know which will work and which won't. I'm your man there. Just start a new thread if you go that route. Or search for my posts on the matter. What you need to know ahead of time is DO NOT take the 88 if it's missing the motor mount brackets. You'll be SCREWED without those.
05-02-2016, 07:49 PM
#7
88 block and motor mount brackets(actually the 88 brackets will bolt to later blocks, but not vice versa). All the rest of the parts can be from a later model. Parts you can't use with a later ECU are...hold on I just did this for someone recently. Be right back...gotta find that thread.
Wait it's all backwards. But all the info is there. Basically summed up after the "In short..." Those won't work with a later ECU or a later exhaust system. The distributor and knock sensor might. The rest no can do. 88 throttle body won't work because the later TPS won't bolt to it. Fuel injectors look the same, but aren't the same on the inside(electronically). ECT sensor and CST switch have different connectors. Left exhaust manifold is shaped differently, won't bolt up to a later down pipe. I mention the oil cooler incompatibility. You'll have to delete it, or mod the 88 left bracket, and/or the lower coolant hose/line. I've done the latter. But it's a closely guarded secret how.
I might tell/show you if I have to. Oh.. that's right, you won't have to delete it. Because the 88 block already has it deleted. Unless the plug is missing. But you could add it if you wanted to. A lot of trouble though.
Wait it's all backwards. But all the info is there. Basically summed up after the "In short..." Those won't work with a later ECU or a later exhaust system. The distributor and knock sensor might. The rest no can do. 88 throttle body won't work because the later TPS won't bolt to it. Fuel injectors look the same, but aren't the same on the inside(electronically). ECT sensor and CST switch have different connectors. Left exhaust manifold is shaped differently, won't bolt up to a later down pipe. I mention the oil cooler incompatibility. You'll have to delete it, or mod the 88 left bracket, and/or the lower coolant hose/line. I've done the latter. But it's a closely guarded secret how.
I might tell/show you if I have to. Oh.. that's right, you won't have to delete it. Because the 88 block already has it deleted. Unless the plug is missing. But you could add it if you wanted to. A lot of trouble though.The 88 is very much different than the later years. You really need to know what works with what...and what doesn't. I happen to have all the answers. But your questions will have to be specific.
Ask away!
In short...if you use the 88 wiring harness, ECU, TPS, throttle body, distributor, fuel injectors, ECT sensor, CST switch, knock sensor, and left exhaust manifold on the 95 it'll work. If not, you're going to have to do some modding.
At length...you'll want to use the 95 motor mount brackets too. Because if you try using the 88 motor mount brackets you'll run into problems with one of the oil cooler hoses. Which isn't something you'd want to do even if you could. Because the 88 motor mount brackets are significantly weaker. You could delete the oil cooler(using the "fire hydrant plug"/bypass from the 88, the hex plug for the block coolant port, and the other/88 style water pump), but there's no good reason to(unless the oil cooler's not working properly). You'd be better off modifying the 88 left motor mount bracket to accomodate the hose, or modifying the hose to accomodate the 88 motor mount bracket(if you had to).
You don't want to run the 88 camshafts or oil pump either. Both of those are also inferior to 89+ performance wise(but are technically still "compatible" with 89+). Just don't forget to ignore the valve clearance specs for 88, if you use the 95 camshafts, since they were revised for 89+(-.002" Intake & Exhaust).
The timing belt and tensioner are different, but neither design is any better than the other IMO(they both kinda suck, but are still perfectly adequate, for their own unique reasons). So take your pick(both will work with 95 heads). Just make sure you use the correct timing belt for the hydraulic tensioner if you use that style. The hydraulic tensioner pulley/idler uses a stronger(and replaceable) bearing, and a slightly stronger timing belt(higher strength material), since the tension is slightly higher(the drawback is it's slightly harder to work with than the spring tensioner...IMO). You can use the slightly stronger hydraulic tensioner timing belt with the spring tensioner(there's no reason to, but no reason not to either), but you probably shouldn't use the slightly weaker spring tensioner timing belt with the hydraulic tensioner.
The head bolts are different, 14mm 12 point head for 88 vs. 12mm 12 point head for 89+. Both types are M11 x 1.25. And should be equal in strength. Whether they are or not I don't know.
The water inlet/thermostat cover is aluminum or plastic depending...on what I'm not sure. But I think the plastic ones came after 88. My 90 has plastic, my 88 has aluminum. Neither works better than the other. The cast aluminum unit is arguably stronger(not that it needs to be).
Ask away!
In short...if you use the 88 wiring harness, ECU, TPS, throttle body, distributor, fuel injectors, ECT sensor, CST switch, knock sensor, and left exhaust manifold on the 95 it'll work. If not, you're going to have to do some modding.
At length...you'll want to use the 95 motor mount brackets too. Because if you try using the 88 motor mount brackets you'll run into problems with one of the oil cooler hoses. Which isn't something you'd want to do even if you could. Because the 88 motor mount brackets are significantly weaker. You could delete the oil cooler(using the "fire hydrant plug"/bypass from the 88, the hex plug for the block coolant port, and the other/88 style water pump), but there's no good reason to(unless the oil cooler's not working properly). You'd be better off modifying the 88 left motor mount bracket to accomodate the hose, or modifying the hose to accomodate the 88 motor mount bracket(if you had to).
You don't want to run the 88 camshafts or oil pump either. Both of those are also inferior to 89+ performance wise(but are technically still "compatible" with 89+). Just don't forget to ignore the valve clearance specs for 88, if you use the 95 camshafts, since they were revised for 89+(-.002" Intake & Exhaust).
The timing belt and tensioner are different, but neither design is any better than the other IMO(they both kinda suck, but are still perfectly adequate, for their own unique reasons). So take your pick(both will work with 95 heads). Just make sure you use the correct timing belt for the hydraulic tensioner if you use that style. The hydraulic tensioner pulley/idler uses a stronger(and replaceable) bearing, and a slightly stronger timing belt(higher strength material), since the tension is slightly higher(the drawback is it's slightly harder to work with than the spring tensioner...IMO). You can use the slightly stronger hydraulic tensioner timing belt with the spring tensioner(there's no reason to, but no reason not to either), but you probably shouldn't use the slightly weaker spring tensioner timing belt with the hydraulic tensioner.
The head bolts are different, 14mm 12 point head for 88 vs. 12mm 12 point head for 89+. Both types are M11 x 1.25. And should be equal in strength. Whether they are or not I don't know.
The water inlet/thermostat cover is aluminum or plastic depending...on what I'm not sure. But I think the plastic ones came after 88. My 90 has plastic, my 88 has aluminum. Neither works better than the other. The cast aluminum unit is arguably stronger(not that it needs to be).
Last edited by MudHippy; 05-02-2016 at 08:20 PM.
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