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Clutch to the floor, won't go into any gear

Old 02-16-2007, 07:14 AM
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Exclamation Clutch to the floor, won't go into any gear

1986 4runner 22re.

I was driving last night and I noticed a slight difference in the clutch pedal, but it was freezing outside and thought maybe that had something to do with it. Got in it this mourning and the thing went all the way to the floor with no resistence. It has always been perfect, never any problems. Recently I replaced the master because it was leaking into the cab, but that was a month ago. I rarely have time to take it where it wants to be (off-road), so it's driven soft. So whats the deal?

Got plenty of fluid and I can't see any leaks.
Old 02-16-2007, 07:27 AM
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did you flush the lines when you changed the M/C may have some ice in the line.
break fluid dose draw water in it over time.
Old 02-16-2007, 07:32 AM
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I didn't flush them properly. Instead I kept bleeding them intill I was satisfied that enough had gone through.

I drove it about one mile this mourning before this happened. So I got all the way to 3rd before it stopped going anywhere.
Old 02-16-2007, 07:49 AM
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I've been through this several times when replacing with aftermarket master/slaves. When one fails, the other usually isn't far behind in my experience.

Check your fluid level.. Then check your slave.

Ice would do it too. Old brake fluid collects water.
Old 02-16-2007, 08:07 AM
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I had it happen to my brakes a few winters ago talking about scary now I flush my fluids once a year.

Last edited by CyMoN; 02-16-2007 at 11:23 PM.
Old 02-16-2007, 08:28 AM
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I would say that your slave has gone. They are very simple to check and sometimes fix. I have had the plunger on mine get jambed a bit sidways. Took apart, clean it out and all good.
Old 02-16-2007, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Lifelongtoy
Recently I replaced the master because it was leaking into the cab, but that was a month ago.
Did you use a cheap parts store replacement? I've had similar problems with my junk and it's cause I used cheap replacements. The stock MC lasted 160,000 miles, and in the last 20,000 I've gone through a couple cheap replacements 'cause they suck.

Mine is acting up right now when it is really cold because I think the internal o-rings/seals can't handle the cold weather. Next time I'm buying an OEM MC.
Old 02-16-2007, 06:20 PM
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Rule of thumb...replace the master cylinder and the slave at the same time and save yourself the delayed headache...like you are experiencing now.

Clutches: http://www.wabfab.org/products/clutches/clutches.htm

Old 02-16-2007, 06:39 PM
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this might not apply to you, but its worth a shot anyways,

When i got my truck I was experiencing a problem which seemed exactly like a master cylinder problem.

I took apart the master cylinder and it was worn out, i rebuilt it.

At first everything was ok, then very very soon after it started happening again.

After further looking around, i found that my bracket for the clutch pedal had cracked and broken.

It caused exactly what you described, no resistance on the pedal.

What happens is the pedal just falls on the floor and doesn't apply the master cylinder at all.

I can't find a picture of the bracket broken at the moment, but its worth taking a peek under the dash and check for that.
Old 02-16-2007, 06:51 PM
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We sell quite a few of these at my wrecking yard, because of this very problem. That clutch pedal bracket tends to break. Especially after brand new components such as clutchs or master cylinders have been installed.
Old 02-16-2007, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by DeathCougar
We sell quite a few of these at my wrecking yard, because of this very problem. That clutch pedal bracket tends to break. Especially after brand new components such as clutchs or master cylinders have been installed.
wow, yea, when i looked i wasn't able to find one for a decent price, over $100!! I ended up welding mine back together, actaully a few times. Finally the last time i did it right, with new metal and stuff, its not gonna break again.
Old 02-16-2007, 06:59 PM
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you didn't want to buy a new one, and they were only just over $100??!! Think about how long that bracket lasted. I never try to fix that sort of thing. I would rather just buy a new one and do it right the first time. Getting that bracket out is a MAJOR PITA!!
Old 02-16-2007, 07:01 PM
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yea, i got it down it like 20-30min, lol. It lasted 4months, now though, it'll last. its properly reinforced now. also i wouldn't call a used bracket new, it can break just as easily.
Old 02-16-2007, 07:27 PM
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used is not new.

I wouldn't ever buy a used bracket, for this very reason.

But, some people want to buy them used, so who are we to refuse the sale! lol
Old 02-16-2007, 09:45 PM
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Not really a good idea to replace master and not slave. When master is replaced it can likely blow out a used slave because it has so much hydraulic pressure behind it that the slave can't handle.
Old 02-16-2007, 09:48 PM
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Good news is its a cheap fix. About $12.99 for a slave cylinder.
Old 02-16-2007, 10:49 PM
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except thats an aftermarket slave. See abeo regarding quality of aftermarket replacement parts.

Remember, there is a REASON that stuff is so cheap
Old 02-16-2007, 10:54 PM
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Raybestos isnt that bad of stuff.

Only complaint about my aftermarket Clutch Master is the push rod likes to squeak and stick with the rubber boot it pushes through.. WD it every once and awhile but thats getting old...

OEM one sprung a leak (bought the truck with this problem) Corroded all of the paint behind the pedal from the master down and onto the floor under the carpet.. corroded the paint off the pedal as well and made driving scary. That was one of the first fixes in the first week of ownership =)
Old 02-16-2007, 11:23 PM
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My first thought was that slave, but I don't see any leak. Would I see a leak with a bad slave?
Old 02-16-2007, 11:39 PM
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When I lost the slave in my 84 it was not leaking. The peddle just went to the floor. They are pretty easy to replace.

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