Cluster swap question
 

I do know on mine I had some bulbs missing so I added all just to have spares on the cluster and a gauge stopped working but it may have been coincidence. Think it was the voltage. Then I removed all the unused bulbs and it started working again. From the back view it looks like some bulbs complete a circuit. I would start by removing the bulbs not needed and see if it has any effect. If it does follow the path from what isn't working and see if it's tied to a missing bulb.

Are you also swapping the black surround bezel? It will not be an exact fit but can work with a little cutting of tabs and hole mounts.

The cluster in my 94/2wd 5 spd is the cluster from a 4wd automatic, I didn't remove any bulbs. In fact I believe I swapped all the blub cages from the original into the auto to have on hand as spares.

The only "wild card" is the dash harness, you can't have any sources to ground the multi guage/cluster doesn't expect. You would have toxo sule the pin out (wiring diagram) of source and donor (like the big sticky thread recommend)..

I hope you remembered to disconnect the oil pressure switch BEFORE you plugged in the new combination meter.

I've got over a 1/4 gauge reading deviation from idle to drive as well although mine is max a little over half way and around 1/4 at idle. My last 22RE was max under 1/2 and almost 0 at idle. I think it will always vary depending on condition of oil gauge and engine. Maybe a genuine OEM gauge will read better I don't know.

That's about what mine reads with warm oil. Reads a little higher (at idle) when the oil is cold.

You know, of course, that the meter has no calibrations so you can only use it in a relative sense anyway.

​​​​​​put a numeric guage on it if you really want hard numbers to compare..

Note ​​​the position when the engine isn't running this is the rest position, it will climb above this when the engine is ran. That first section of the scaled guage is fine at and near idle. The third and forth sections are bad places and indicate the filter bypass is active..

Bottom line, if it moves in to section one and stays out of the last two it is good. If you want actual psi you need a numeric guage.

I mean you could try a different sending unit but might be in the same boat, you know the truck runs great so as long as the gauge is in the spots your used to that tells you all is well. I have never been concerned about where it’s at as long as it’s doing something:)

I was just excited to have more moving stuff in my cluster and a tach!!!