charge and brake light on, changed alt brush, lights still on
1987 carbed truck. changed out alt brush and both lights are still on and battery is discharging slowly What else can I check?
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Originally Posted by sc2dave
(Post 52419079)
1987 carbed truck. changed out alt brush and both lights are still on and battery is discharging slowly What else can I check?
Might look to the voltage regulator and the diode bridge. |
Originally Posted by millball
(Post 52419081)
Well, what did the old brushes look like??? Did they actually need to be changed?? How'd the slip rings look??
Might look to the voltage regulator and the diode bridge. |
Originally Posted by sc2dave
(Post 52419082)
The brushes were about a little less than halfways out compared to the new one. Where are the slip rings? Today it was too low to crank over after work. @ days ago ,I measured voltage at alt stud and it was 12.6. I remember that I had some problem with the big screwed on fuse near the batter but I don't remember what it was for.
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I did notice that the area where the brushes ride on was grooved , where the brushes made contact. What else can i check before i take alt out again?
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Originally Posted by sc2dave
(Post 52419082)
... I remember that I had some problem with the big screwed on fuse near the batter but I don't remember what it was for.
WITH B-WIRE DISCONNECTED, measure resistance from screw terminal to ground. You should get Very high reading. Lots of Meg-ohms (Sorry I forgot how much mine read). If low, suspect bad rectifier (s). And here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-22re-304868/ |
Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
(Post 52419103)
And what did you do about that problem? If you want us to help, pls tell us more details. (See signature).
WITH B-WIRE DISCONNECTED, measure resistance from screw terminal to ground. You should get Very high reading. Lots of Meg-ohms (Sorry I forgot how much mine read). If low, suspect bad rectifier (s). And here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-22re-304868/ |
Originally Posted by sc2dave
(Post 52419146)
...I replaced bolt on fuse and all was well.
what other info do you need on present problem? '87 22R,stock alt. Grab a multi-meter WITH B-WIRE DISCONNECTED from screw terminal of alternator, measure resistance from screw terminal to ground. You should get Very high reading. Lots of Meg-ohms (Sorry I forgot how much mine read). If low, suspect bad rectifier (s). Then do voltage checks described on my thread here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-22re-304868/ |
I ended up putting in a rebuilt alt. The output on alt is around 14.7, at the battery post it's 14.7 also. That fuse for "L" was around 8.8. i checked cable that runs along trans and it looked good. I did an Ohms test on the 3 big fuses all ok. Charge and park lights still on.
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Originally Posted by sc2dave
(Post 52419198)
I ended up putting in a rebuilt alt. The output on alt is around 14.7, at the battery post it's 14.7 also. That fuse for "L" was around 8.8. i checked cable that runs along trans and it looked good. I did an Ohms test on the 3 big fuses all ok. Charge and park lights still on.
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Obviously the alternator was not the problem. See signature.
O.P. Remove charge fuse and tell us what you see. REPEAT: Measure IG, and S voltage as mentioned on my post. |
Originally Posted by wallytoo
(Post 52419210)
keep throwing parts at it. you'll get it eventually. maybe you'll get lucky and only spend several hundred dollars.
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[QUOTE=RAD4Runner;52419219]Obviously the alternator was not the problem. See signature.
The charge fuse is good, but was reading 8.8 when I checked with voltmeter |
[QUOTE=sc2dave;52419248]
Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
(Post 52419219)
Obviously the alternator was not the problem. See signature.
The charge fuse is good, but was reading 8.8 when I checked with voltmeter (REPEAT) 1) Removing charge fuse, and telling us what you see. then... 2) Measuring IG voltage, 3) Measuring S voltage, |
[QUOTE=RAD4Runner;52419285]
Originally Posted by sc2dave
(Post 52419248)
I am not questioning whether charge fuse is good or bad. I am asking you to help us help you by... (REPEAT) 1) Removing charge fuse, and telling us what you see |
When u remove charge fuse, do charge and brake lights stay on?
We need to see what you are seeing, being far away. Exactly where are you measuring 8.8 V? I reiterate. Pls put us AT ur vehicle so we can help even from thousands of miles away. repeat; see signature. A picture paints a thousand words. Repeat: Then do voltage measurements I listed several times above. |
Ok, I messed with it again. The charge fuse previously had the 8.8 volts, befor I replaced the alt.When I removed charge fuse while running, the charge light dimmed and the brake light got brighter.I put wires in between the intermediate harness connector and the white B wire showed 14.25 running.The battery is at 14.25 running. In the link that you provided, you wrote, " WITH B-WIRE DISCONNECTED, measure resistance from screw terminal to ground. Do you mean the whole plug from the back of the alt, and what "screw terminal? Man, this is a weird charging system
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Originally Posted by sc2dave
(Post 52419314)
... ... .... Do you mean the whole plug from the back of the alt, and what "screw terminal? Man, this is a weird charging system
Also, what is intermediate harness wire? Repeat: A picture paints a thousand words. |
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...371fee2365.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...bee52c2c36.jpg First pic shows alt plug, second is the "intermediate" plug as named by you in the link that you provided. I forgot to mention too, that my idle is higher also. |
Awesome, Dave!.
14.25V is normal charging. 8.8 V at Charge fuse means alternator "L" fault signal is high enough and not indicating fault condition. BUT to double-check, because I like to be thorough (like the Japanese/Toyota) please: 1) Double check voltage at "S" and "IG" wires. As in my post, "S" Should be thin white wire on that plastic connector, "IG" is thin red wire. Probe from back of connector with that plug connected. Should reflect very close to battery voltage whether running or not. 2) With engine running, Charge fuse removed, measure voltage at each side of the charge fuse socket. Charge fuse is NOT needed to charge. It is just there to complete indication circuit for fault condition.
Originally Posted by sc2dave
(Post 52419314)
...When I removed charge fuse while running, the charge light dimmed and the brake light got brighter..
Sounds more like a wiring problem than an alternator fault. Thick B-Wire should be connected via Screw terminal as shown on my post: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nc...Q=w950-h712-no |
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