Broke my trans, need my man card revoked.
 

1986 Toyota pickup 4x4, 22R 2.4L, W56, 5" rough country with 2.5" ball joint and 2.5 tow leafs, 33x12.50x15, 250k miles.
So, last night I was out, suppose I could have been giving her all she's got and the rear output shaft broke. No big deal I though "Hey I can just remove the rear driveline and take her home." Well unfortunately that was not the only problem as I locked in the manual hubs and put her in 4H and just started grinding, 4L same thing. Towed her home and here she sits, broken hearted. I haven't opened up the transfer case or anything so far, I am just assuming for now that the output shaft is broken and the cain is broken (W56) because the front driveline moves but like I said grindy, grindy. My main question since I told my Trans mechanic to F#%$ off because I asked him how much if I remove the TX case and bring it to him and he replied with 400 just labor not including parts. Can I just replace the TX case or is there more internal damage?

Do you still hear the grinding noises if you put the tcase in neutral with the transmission in gear? That will help tell you if it's just the output section of the tcase, or if there's more damage further forward.

Were you in low range when things broke, or high range? What transmission gear?

There are good instructions on both the Marlin site and the Trail-Gear site for tearing apart the RF1A gear drive case. Look for instructions for installing a 4.7 gear set. That will have all of the steps to get it apart. It's time consuming but not rocket science if you have a good place to work and take your time.

I have not tried to press the gas while the t case was in neutral I will find that out for you tomorrow. I was in low range and one of my buddies said that the font drive line was moving but making noise so that is a different animal I might have broken the birfield, hubs were hard to put back into free after all of this.

Remove the case, and take it apart. I have no experience on the chain driven one, but it can't be much harder.
You should be able to remove it without pulling the transmission, but you need to support the transmission from "falling" and fking up your motor mounts.

400 for parts and I'd ask 400 for the work as well, IF the transmission is removed. Else, add 500 for removal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiCQ...ature=youtu.be

Update
 

Found case for cheap, also it is gear driven not chain I got it mixed up. Video helped all, exactly what it sounds like.

@ev13wt, is that video of your own personal experience? If so, how did that bearing get damaged? I have a front output bearing on my dual case setup that is noisy (not as bad as the video yet), but I expect I need to change it out. I think I can do that by just pulling off the front bearing cover and the back of the case, without removing the tcase entirely. According to Marlin Crawler's instructions that should work. I'm just curious about the damage, because that bearing is continuously submerged in oil, and should be one of the last to fail.

OP, it's not too hard to pull the case without pulling the tranny. The bolts, even the top ones, are reasonably accessible if you have some various length wobble extensions. As @ev13wt says, you need to support the transmission. When I swapped in my dual cases, I got a 3 foot length of 1" angle iron and bolted it to the frame underneath the tranny. (There are some threaded 8mm inserts in the bottom of the frame that you can bolt into.) I then wedged a piece of 2x4 in between the angle iron and the transmission. That supported everything just fine, and since the support was bolted to the frame, I could raise and lower the truck for access as needed without having to adjust the transmission support.

That bearing and its gear are the lowest in the case and are sometimes damaged by moisture that lays there if condensation or deep fording puts it into the case; and the gear oil is not changed soon enough.

I have bought a couple cases that had ruined bearings and pitted front output gears from this. If 4WD is seldom used, that sump often contains considerable water.

Good to know, and makes sense. I'll keep my eye on that.

An overhaul of a w56 books 4.4 hours. So does RF1A case. at $400 for labor he's charging you $88 an hour. That's a pretty regular shop rate. Also It only books 4.4 hours for somebody who has done it a multiple times and know their way through the process really well. If he's no W56 expert it might take him longer meaning hes charging you even less per hour. Gotta remember, cheap labor isn't good and good labor isn't cheap. If you want somebody else to do the job right, you better be willing to pay up.