irv

I bought a clutch kit and flywheel that both said +020" spec. I don't know what that means but they were good prices so I bought them. The did maybe appear to be .020" thicker than the standard units.

Works great so far. No slipping and I can fully disengage it as well. However, it engages very very high on the pedal travel. I was under the impression that an older well worn clutch should engage high like this. I have checked and adjusted the lock nut on the master cylinder and set the proper free play but it doesn't really change the clutch engagement point. Anything else that can be adjusted? Any idea why this is happening?

128keaton

I put a new clutch in and I STILL have to push it all the way to the mat to get it to disengage. I couldn't figure out how to adjust mine either, so I'm subbing to this thread.

irv

Interesting. Your issue sounds like it is the exact opposite of my problem. I only have to push the clutch pedal down a tiny tiny bit to disengage the clutch. Then pushing it the remaining 3/4 of the way all the way down to the mat doesn't do anything additional.

mholme

This may or may not help you for your situation
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/clutch-pedal-adjustment-w-pics-291259/

128keaton

My rod thing only had one nut, but I don't understand any of the terminology there. All I know is that it feels like it slips sometimes and shifting sucks.

RJR

There's a spec for freeplay (5-15 mm), and another one for pedal travel after disengagement (25mm or more). Notice the pedal travel after disengagement has no maximum spec. If the clutch works well otherwise, I would just shorten the clutch rod until the pedal feels comfortable to you and call it good. The only real important criteria are (1) the clutch is fully engaged when your foot is off the pedal, and (2) the clutch is full disengaged when the pedal is on the floor. Exactly where the disengagement point happens in between those two points is somewhat of a matter of personal preference and you can adjust the clutch rod to get what you want.

A few other points, however;
- Make sure the clutch bracket is not cracked. That's a common problem and will change how the pedal feels.
- Make sure the pedal height adjustment is correct. That will change where the pedal rests with your foot off of it, independent of release point.
- Finally, make sure the hydraulic system is properly bled.

I've attached the .pdf from the FSM for how to adjust the pedal.

89fourrunner

To the OP, you could simply adjust the clutch master cyl rod to be shorter, therefore moving it into the firewall and away from the back of the pedal. This will make engagement and disengagement closer to the floor. Ideally there would only be a few mm of play between the two though.

128keaton

So my pedal position and freeplay SEEM to be normal, but between when I feel pressure (i.e. signifying the end of the freeplay) I need to push until it almost is at the floor to shift! And on top of that, letting out of netrual and going into first is pretty bouncy and sometimes it feels like its slipping when you are 'lugging' the engine below 2k RPM. I know my worn rear end would contribute, but I think some of this is clutch related. The only thing I havent tried is bleeding it, but I can get a buddy over to do it.

irv

I've tried that but it just adjusts freeplay. If I set it so that the clutch grabs in a more reasonable area then the first several inches of pedal travel are just totally loose and sloppy.

RJR

OP, It sounds like your issue is related to the clutch going from completely disengaged to completely engaged (or vice versa) in an abnormally short length of pedal travel. That's probably more a function of clutch construction than of the hydraulic and mechanical linkages. We used to refer to that sort of thing as a "touchy" or "jumpy" clutch. Kind of a pain to drive, but good for quick shifts once you got used to it.

I don't know that you can solve that short of pulling out that clutch and putting in a different (perhaps OEM) one.

irv

Here is a quick paint drawing illustrating my clutch action. The clutch disk, flywheel, finger plate and bearings are all brand new. Don't clutches usually engage really high after they have become worn? My worry is that as my clutch wears it will slip outside of the tiny usable section of pedal action I currently have. It's no problem at all to drive right now but if it goes any higher it wouldn't be good.

RJR

I guess I'm not understanding. It still seems like that's just a freeplay issue. By definition, on your diagram freeplay is the distance between the pedal rest position and your red line. More freeplay, the clutch disengages at a lower point. Shortening the clutch rod will accomplish that.

If the pedal is feeling loose and floppy in the freeplay region, it may be that a spring is loose or missing on the clutch pedal, that would otherwise give it a more substantial feel. There are two things that provide restoring force to the clutch pedal. One is the clutch itself, acting through the TB, the clutch fork, and the hydraulics pushing back on the master cylinder. That force disappears once the clutch is fully engaged. In the freeplay region, the only restoring force is the pedal spring under the dash.

irv

This drawing is with the proper freeplay set. My main point is that the clutch engages/disengages at near the very beginning of when actual hydraulic pressure is applied. Making the freeplay larger just delays the amount of time/space before the pedal begins to apply actual hydraulic pressure. On most other clutches I have used there is a length of time when hydraulic pressure is being applied when the clutch has not disengaged yet. Even if I give myself 2 inches of freeplay where the pedal feels no resistance (hydraulic pressure) then my clutch still engages/disengages at the very first moment that pressure is felt. Adjusting freeplay just moves around the area at which this happens. But does not address the actual issue. Make sense?

RJR

OK, then I go back to my post #10. That's a function of your particular clutch choice, and the only way it will be "fixed" is to change the clutch. If you liked the way the OEM clutch worked, than that's what you should put back in there.

irv

That makes sense and I think that you're right. Honestly the way it functions doesn't much bother me. It's fine and I got used to it within a day. I'm just concerned that as the clutch disk, finger plate and flywheel wear and lose surface material that I will no longer be able to get the clutch to engage/disengage anymore because it will slip outside of the small usable portion of pedal I have. Does that make sense? Or does that not happen with these trucks? Is there some sort of automatic adjusting going on that I'm unaware of so that the point at which the clutch engages/disengages does not move over time?

RJR

It may move over time, although the hydraulics will compensate for some of that. But, as long as you have adjustment left on the clutch rod between the pedal and the MC, you should be able to tweak it back to where it is now.

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

had the same issue. ended up installing the clutch disc backwards. it was dark and there were 4 people wotking on it. no regrets because i upgraded to MC 1200lb clutch.

anyways, you SHOULDNT ever have to modify clutch linkages.