Brake bleeding 90 4x4 pickup SR5 V6 w/antilock
#1
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#2
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No
not me but every one with the rear anti lock brakes I worked on I just used the vacuum bleeder like normal .
Seems to work but not saying it is the proper way.
Toyota has lots of neat Special Service Tools it would be nice to have.
If you think about it each Toyota Dealer would have just one Tech that just bled these brakes all the time.
These trucks get serviced by other then Toyota dealers that have never seen the FSM
not me but every one with the rear anti lock brakes I worked on I just used the vacuum bleeder like normal .
Seems to work but not saying it is the proper way.
Toyota has lots of neat Special Service Tools it would be nice to have.
If you think about it each Toyota Dealer would have just one Tech that just bled these brakes all the time.
These trucks get serviced by other then Toyota dealers that have never seen the FSM
#3
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Thread Starter
No, the truck does need this. I have air somewhere and everything has been checked. Brakes don't work very well on panic stop, they go to the floor. But seem ok on normal, slower driving.
#5
what the heck people! So much brake bleeding going on lately!
I bleed my anti lock brakes the most ghetto method possible and it works perfectly fine. The most trouble I had was a huge air pocket (or a few of them) and while the engine was off the helper pushign the brakes wasnt able to push hard enough for the air bubbles to move. I started the engine, and told wife to hold brakes, opened bleeder and a couple seconds of whistling later on the right two tires and LSPV.. my brakes were bled
I bleed my anti lock brakes the most ghetto method possible and it works perfectly fine. The most trouble I had was a huge air pocket (or a few of them) and while the engine was off the helper pushign the brakes wasnt able to push hard enough for the air bubbles to move. I started the engine, and told wife to hold brakes, opened bleeder and a couple seconds of whistling later on the right two tires and LSPV.. my brakes were bled
#6
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To the OP if you feel the need to bleed your brakes that way by all means make a appointment at your Toyota dealer.
The reason no one has bleed brakes that way Is I know no one that has the SST for doing this.
If you do have the SST or have a friend that does by all means go for it.
The reason no one has bleed brakes that way Is I know no one that has the SST for doing this.
If you do have the SST or have a friend that does by all means go for it.
#7
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I've never done that procedure, and I've had my PS pump off and disconnected, as well redone all 4 corners of the brakes. I just do the "ghetto" bleeding as Gevo said and have had zero problems. My brakes stop on a dime.
My guess is it is more likely the rear brakes aren't adjusted tight enough. It's been stated here before, but I'll say it again. The only thing that adjusts the rear brakes automatically on these vehicles is the emergency brake. Unlike American cars, you can back up while applying the brakes until you run out of gas and it won't do a thing for rear brake adjustment. Just get in the habit of pulling on the e-brake firmly every time you park it and the rear brakes will be happy. Do that about 30 times right now and see if it helps any.
My guess is it is more likely the rear brakes aren't adjusted tight enough. It's been stated here before, but I'll say it again. The only thing that adjusts the rear brakes automatically on these vehicles is the emergency brake. Unlike American cars, you can back up while applying the brakes until you run out of gas and it won't do a thing for rear brake adjustment. Just get in the habit of pulling on the e-brake firmly every time you park it and the rear brakes will be happy. Do that about 30 times right now and see if it helps any.
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#8
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I need help with this!
Thanks for positive replies.
This problem started 3 or so years ago when I changed my P/S pump and flushed the lines, (the P/S fluid smelled mettalic bad). After the work, brakes seemed different. I checked everything including a MC replacement. I couldn't get it working right so I gave up. -not a daily driver.
Fast forward to today, I have replaced EVERTHING. Calipers, wheel cylinders, pads, shoes, rotors, drums, booster and another MC. I checked the LSPV and its not sticking or leaking. I bleeded the brakes till my fingers were bleeding.
I woldn't call the brake pedal 'soft' and it works for ordinary stopping OK, but when you panic stop the pedal goes to the floor and I cant get the front to lock.
I have been wrenching for 30+ years and this has me baffled. I bought the truck new in 11/1989 so I know it's history. I can also say that besides tires, alignments and recalls, it has never been in the shop. I do ALL of my own work. So if you have seen this before or can offer some advice, I AM ALL EARS!
Thanks.
PS. Rears are adjusted very close and front bearings have been replaced.
This problem started 3 or so years ago when I changed my P/S pump and flushed the lines, (the P/S fluid smelled mettalic bad). After the work, brakes seemed different. I checked everything including a MC replacement. I couldn't get it working right so I gave up. -not a daily driver.
Fast forward to today, I have replaced EVERTHING. Calipers, wheel cylinders, pads, shoes, rotors, drums, booster and another MC. I checked the LSPV and its not sticking or leaking. I bleeded the brakes till my fingers were bleeding.
I woldn't call the brake pedal 'soft' and it works for ordinary stopping OK, but when you panic stop the pedal goes to the floor and I cant get the front to lock.
I have been wrenching for 30+ years and this has me baffled. I bought the truck new in 11/1989 so I know it's history. I can also say that besides tires, alignments and recalls, it has never been in the shop. I do ALL of my own work. So if you have seen this before or can offer some advice, I AM ALL EARS!
Thanks.
PS. Rears are adjusted very close and front bearings have been replaced.
Last edited by gandude; 09-19-2014 at 01:44 PM.
#9
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You might have changed all the parts.
I am thinking when your power steering pump failed it took out the seals allowing transmission fluid (used in Toyota pumps) into the brake system.
No matter how you flushed the brake lines it will never come out of the rubber hoses may have even broken them down to a degree.
Now just depending what tires and calipers and pads .You might not be able to lock the front brakes
If you been doing this I would look at your rubbers hoses
The other is so simple you do have your rear brakes adjusted
If they are not adjusted all the pedal travel is used trying to push the rear shoes against the drum.
Then you can have a air leak from all the parts you swapped it does not take much even a bleeder not sealing.
It can draw air and not leak fluid.
Then I forgot the popular calipers on upside down so you can never get the system to bleed****
I am thinking when your power steering pump failed it took out the seals allowing transmission fluid (used in Toyota pumps) into the brake system.
No matter how you flushed the brake lines it will never come out of the rubber hoses may have even broken them down to a degree.
Now just depending what tires and calipers and pads .You might not be able to lock the front brakes
If you been doing this I would look at your rubbers hoses
The other is so simple you do have your rear brakes adjusted
If they are not adjusted all the pedal travel is used trying to push the rear shoes against the drum.
Then you can have a air leak from all the parts you swapped it does not take much even a bleeder not sealing.
It can draw air and not leak fluid.
Then I forgot the popular calipers on upside down so you can never get the system to bleed****
Last edited by wyoming9; 09-20-2014 at 04:28 AM.
#10
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Thread Starter
well,
I did replace the front flex hoses back when I first tried to fix the problem 3 years ago. Didn't replace the rear though.
I picked up the truck this morning from the shop and they could not find what the problem is. They had it a few days and the tech who worked on it was a good guy. They didn't charge me so I drove a few blocks away to the Toyota dealer and dropped it off. $150 to look at it! Guess I'll know in a day or two, hopefully.
Man, this is humbling. I guess you should never think you can fix anything!
I did replace the front flex hoses back when I first tried to fix the problem 3 years ago. Didn't replace the rear though.
I picked up the truck this morning from the shop and they could not find what the problem is. They had it a few days and the tech who worked on it was a good guy. They didn't charge me so I drove a few blocks away to the Toyota dealer and dropped it off. $150 to look at it! Guess I'll know in a day or two, hopefully.
Man, this is humbling. I guess you should never think you can fix anything!
#11
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Thread Starter
two shops have looked at it, WTF
One shop looked at my truck and couldn't fix the brake issue. I then took it to the Toyota dealer and they said the MC needs to be a GOOD Toyota one, they tried bleeding and charged me $150. So, I bought an Asin Toyota part and installed it. ...Same problem.
I removed the rod for the LSP and bypass valve and tie-rapped it to the bed. Great brakes now. on an extreme downhill stop, it might lock the rear wheels, but it stops on a dime.
any info on what the deal is here?
The LSPV and Antilock actuator are the only parts not replaced.
BTW, I also replaced the front and rear hoses.
Thanks for input.
I removed the rod for the LSP and bypass valve and tie-rapped it to the bed. Great brakes now. on an extreme downhill stop, it might lock the rear wheels, but it stops on a dime.
any info on what the deal is here?
The LSPV and Antilock actuator are the only parts not replaced.
BTW, I also replaced the front and rear hoses.
Thanks for input.
#12
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Thread Starter
This problem is resolved!!!! Yay!
I have perfect brakes now that stop better than I remember.
The bar from the rear Diff to the LSPV valve was seriously bent. It's amazing what it is supposed to look like. The old one was in the shape of a "M" the new one is like "c" turned 90 degrees clockwise.
The bent rod looks like it was made that way and there are no good pictures of what is supposed to look like. $130 for the new rod.
This has been the most difficult vehicle problem I have ever had to troubleshoot!
The bar from the rear Diff to the LSPV valve was seriously bent. It's amazing what it is supposed to look like. The old one was in the shape of a "M" the new one is like "c" turned 90 degrees clockwise.
The bent rod looks like it was made that way and there are no good pictures of what is supposed to look like. $130 for the new rod.
This has been the most difficult vehicle problem I have ever had to troubleshoot!