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Battery & Wiring
I just picked up a 92 3.0L, and saw this when I was going to install a new battery (did not come with one). Is this a normal wiring setup? It looks like it has been spliced and the orientation switched. Can I install a regular Group 24 battery with the positive pole on the left side where the negative lead sits?
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...96ea318844.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...948b99fcf6.jpg |
in the first gen, the positive terminal sits inward, while the negative terminal sits near the fender.
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That wire nut splice needs to go. Do not hook a battery up to that the way it is.
Looks like previous owner bought the wrong battery and extended that one wire to reach. Buy the correct battery and get rid of the red wire & wire nut. |
Thanks, I had reservations about plugging the Group 24F battery in with this setup.. Things just looked suspicious. Now that the positive lead has been cut short and spliced, doesn't reach the left side, how do I replace it?
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Originally Posted by Paul22RE
(Post 52452583)
That wire nut splice needs to go. Do not hook a battery up to that the way it is.
Looks like previous owner bought the wrong battery and extended that one wire to reach. Buy the correct battery and get rid of the red wire & wire nut. You're going to want to hit the local Napa and get a new FL rated for 100-120A, a fiberglass sheath wouldn't be a bad idea as belt and suspenders (GM used this style in the 80-90's). A new ring terminal that isn't aluminium trash. Then your gonna have to unbolt the box and replace that hacked out wire. You will find the other end is crimped into a plate, which you're going to unscrew then uncrimp the wire from and polish the crud off of. Now attach your new FL wire to the plate and crimp. Put your battery in place and run the wire to the terminal, cut it three to five inches longer than needed. Put the fiberglass sheath on it you bought some, and fish it thru the plastic sheath. Put a new (copper!) Ring terminal on it. Bonus points. Replace that battery clamp with a marine grade one with a stud that will accept the new FL ring terminal.. Also replace the body ground from the negative terminal to the inner fender, you'll find an encapsulated nut just to the rear of the negative, which you're also going to polish to bright clean metal, for this. Yeah your battery plus post should be as far away from the body as you can put it, IE inboard and to the rear. Battery explosion is bad m'kay! |
Oh, so the previous owner got rid of the fusible link, that's not good!
I would think you could use a marine-grade waterproof circuit breaker rated at the correct amps instead of a fusible link like this one: . https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...d736d1fd2f.png I've used these for other accessories, but never to replace a fusible link. Don't see why you couldn't go this route as long as you crimp and insulate the ends correctly using the proper gauge wire making sure the breaker is secured well. |
Originally Posted by Paul22RE
(Post 52452631)
Oh, so the previous owner got rid of the fusible link, that's not good!
I would think you could use a marine-grade waterproof circuit breaker rated at the correct amps instead of a fusible link like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Tocas-Circuit...P553T7ZKV&th=1. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...d736d1fd2f.png I've used these for other accessories, but never to replace a fusible link. Don't see why you couldn't go this route as long as you crimp and insulate the ends correctly using the proper gauge wire making sure the breaker is secured well. Please refer to the big long FL thread! |
Originally Posted by Co_94_PU
(Post 52452634)
Fusible link sheathing is non-flamable, that's what makes it FL wire, is this? Are those wire ends?
Please refer to the big long FL thread! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...a1cde5860c.png |
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