yotaduck

Well, we're pretty sure that my 86 has blown the headgasket.


Starting things off with the bad luck, the cd player went, which wasn't a big deal as my brother had the one from his car in his room. Easy swap and problem free.

Then, as he's at school the next day, notices a LOT of anti-freeze comming out under the truck...great, rad. hose split and dumped everything out. Again, not that big of deal, the hose is old and the weather went from cold to warm in a couple days. Easy fix and we're back on the road.


Heading to school this morning he notices white smoke pouring out of the tailpipe. He checked the anti-freeze, there was barely any. Thankfully he made it home. Poped the oil cap and yep, nice and foamy. Checked the oil and it was milky. We're going to get it into the garage and check the plugs, is there anything else to go over?


I've been searching for some tutorials and more information, if anyone could direct me to a couple threads it would be greatly appriciated.


Thanks.

abecedarian

timing cover. pull the valve cover and look down the chain and see if there are grooves in the cover.
head gasket may be gone too, but at least know....

yotaduck

I just read about that happening with a slack timing chain digging into a water passage. I really hope that it's not that serious.

Ed H.

so when the timing chain does this does it create extra pressure in the cooling system? is this why the hose went? very curious now, my truck just started leaking coolant out of the lower hose behind the clamp/on the radiator side, i replaced it now i have no problems, oil and coolant levels/quality are perfect. now i am just paranoid

yotaduck

I'm hoping that the hose went due to it being 23 years old and the weather. It was stretched out and worn when we replaced it.

I'm crossing my fingers that it is just the gasket. The engine did get very hot when the hose blew and I'm banking on that being the cause of the failure.

abecedarian

Ed- something to consider is that the lower hoses are under 'negative pressure' due to their location close to the water pump inlet, so when they leak it's usually because they're cracked, and will usually leak only when the engine is not running for that same reason. A lot of other car companies specify a 'spring' inside of the lower hose for exactly that reason- to keep the hose from collapsing due to suction from the water pump.

When the coolant temp gets too high though, it can blow the lower hose, but we're talking about temps in excess of 240-260F.

yotaduck

A little update.

We brought it down to my uncle's shop, and we're going to start soon. Right now I've been looking for a repair manual, but neither Canadian Tire or Lordco has one for the P'ups.

What I'm looking for is the torque specs for the head and the bolt pattern sequence (if there is one) I have read that it is 58 Ft. LBS for the 22RE head, would it be the same for the 22R?

I'm also wondering about gasket sealer, I've read some mixed opinions on it and whether or not we should use it, and if so, what kind/brand?

I have been reading through this thread:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...nt-pics-88722/

Is there any others that can provide some more info?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

If you do a timing chain, pull the oil pan and clean out the "spare parts". If you have got to do a HG, check out the rest of the engine before reassembly...compression test, leak down etc. Last 3 22R/22REs I've picked up have all been crap...as in they all needed a rebuild. I tried to repair them with bare essentials and ended up just wasting money in the long run if I had just rebuilt them to start. Some times you gamble and lose.

desconhecido

There are FSMs available online. Seehttp://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

To the best of my knowledge, from sometime in 85 through 95 all the details for heads and blocks are the same: torques, valve specs, etc.

Typically, head gaskets are not to be used with sealant. The FSM does not specify sealant (as far as I know). You will need sealant for other things (oil pan, etc). There is a Toyota part for their FIPG -- search the forum for FIPG and find out what other people use. If in doubt, ask whoever sold you the head gasket about sealant. engbldr.com says no.

Inspect the head thoroughly and make sure the surface is flat and that there isn't significant corrosion around the water passages. Check, in particular, where the head gasket blew. If there is something wrong with the head, fix it or replace it. Again, make sure it's flat -- probably a machine shop can measure it for you for not much, if you don't have a really good straight edge. See the FSM.

Inspect the surface of the block as best you can and check for flatness if possible. Less likely to have a block rather than head problem, but it happens.

Even if there is nothing visibly wrong with your timing chain etc, consider replacing the chain and sprockets etc. if you don't know how old everything is. Water pumps are cheap, so think about replacing that, too. Oil pumps, I am told, last slightly less than forever, so if your oil pressure is ok, your pump is probably ok. If the timing cover is damaged, replace it. If it's ok, it's ok.

When you install the head, make sure the holes for the bolts are clean and that the bolts properly thread all the way down. Particularly if you have had the head surfaced, make sure that the bolts do not bottom out. Consider head studs rather than the bolts. The stud kits are pricey -- $130 at Summit.

An engine with water in the oil shouldn't be run -- serious damage can be done to bearings because of poor lubrication. If the engine was not run very long, you are probably ok. Not happy thoughts, but something to think about -- just like WabFab says.

yotaduck

Thanks for all the info desconhecido.

There's a Chilton manual at the library that I'm going to sign out tomorow, which will be a great help.

We will most likely have the head x-rayed and checked out to see if everything is great. We have thought about doing the timing chain, I don't feel that we really need to do it, but it is a very smart move, especailly while everything is apart. It's something I have to think about this week. I wish I could remember what the previous owner had replaced.


The truck ran for a total of 15-20 mins. I know it's a lot, and that scares me. It also makes me sad, because it ran so nice just the day before.

Again, thanks for all the help everyone!

yotaduck

We started tearing into it on Sunday night, everything has been going allright. We have had some problems though, all three bolts on the exhaust manifold heat sheild broke off, even after being drenched with moooveit. The manifold itself came off nicely though.

A couple small hoses connecting to the carb. split, which sucks, does anyone know if you can get replacements? or am I going to have to check out the local junkyard?

Also had a big uh oh, I'm not to sure about this one, we pulled the distributer before bringing the 1st piston to TDC and I'm really hoping that it doesn't effect us too much.


Any thoughts? tips? We're newbies at this.

yotaduck

Big update.

Head got machened today, it was warped. She blew in Cyl. #4.

Right now I'm pricing out new timing chain, guildes, gasket, intake gasket, exhaust gasket, valve cover gasket and of course, headgasket.

Apparantly, there is no OEM Toyota headgaskets in North America.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Ted at Engnbldr.com has everything you need. Just bought a rebuild kit myself yesterday on Ebay from him.

abecedarian

...and don't worry about the TDC / distributor issue-
As long as you make sure #1's valves are closed and the #1 piston is on it's way up when you bolt the head down you won't have issues there.
... also make sure you put the head gasket on with the proper side up....
You'll put the crank and cam at the appropriate positions for TDC when installing the chain. Then put the distributor rotor pointing straight up before inserting it to the head. It should rotate counter-clockwise to about 10 o'clock position and be nearly dead on for timing.

yotaduck

Thanks abecedarian, that takes a load off.

How everything's sitting right now.



And the freshly shaven head:





Wabbit, thanks for the tip, but by the time you factor in shipping, boarder fees and waiting at the boarder, it'll be much faster to grab it all here locally.

lightemup

they always run 110% before they go thats what mine did haha and dont use any sealer on the head or gasket bad things can happen to a good toyota lol not really but you would have to redo it but use rtv were the t-chain cover meets the head thats what the chilton calls for just dont put any on the head or block thats what some idiot did when i bought my truck used at least a whole tube it was insane, coolent in all 4 cylinders. good luck hope it turns out well

bowhunter1

Permatex makes a spray with copper in it just for head gaskets, I worked with a toyota mech. at my last job, he never had any problems when he used this spray. The spray is not a replacement for proper installation of the HG.

yotaduck

Little update.

Everything's ordered, and while it's in the shop we're throwing in a new clutch. Fun fun.

It's also awsome to have a Toyota mechanic as your neighbor.

yotaduck

Update.

We've switched out the oil pan gasket, boy that was fun.
The timing chain did wear through where it water pump sits, added a new timing chain cover to the list.

Still working away on it, we *hope* to have it finnished soon, pending no other suprises.

yotaduck

Tonights progress:

New chain on,




Cover, etc.