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Anyone who's worked on their TPS, Q's for ya

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Old 09-21-2010, 05:22 PM
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Anyone who's worked on their TPS, Q's for ya

I need a few insights from anyone who's worked on their TPS. I have a 92 4runner with a 3.0.

I've been having the common hesitation/missing problem, mostly on acceleration or low to mid throttle ranges.

My first question is as follows. I disconnected the TPS and drove the truck. It was much smoother (not perfect) and had a LOT more power. So that leads me to one of two possiblities. The TPS needs to be replaced or the wiring to the TPS has a problem. SOund about right?


Second question. I was reading up on the testing procedures over at http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml and noticed that the diagram of the TPS on his page is the one that's mounted backwards compared to mine. I know some were one way, some the other way, so thats fine. But my question is, if mine is mounted 180 degrees from the one pictured, that means that the pin positions (for testing purposes) are flipped over as well right? Meaning, for instance, the Vcc will be in the Bottom position rather than on top?

Last question. Is it ok to drive it with the TPS disconnected until I make the repair? It drives so much nicer

Thanks!

Last edited by stomper4x4; 09-21-2010 at 05:54 PM.
Old 09-21-2010, 05:33 PM
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Correct on the first two counts. Maybe on the third. Depends on how soon you intend to repair. Try and see, eh?
Old 09-21-2010, 05:35 PM
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Sorry, I should answer that last question a bit better.

The only real concerns I could see having is engine soot, plug deposits, and potentially O2. Otherwise, it won't hurt anything. I just wouldn't go long that way.
Old 09-21-2010, 05:53 PM
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Thanks thook, I appreciate it. Glad I'm on the right track too. Once I fix this thing, if it runs similar to how it does with the TPS unplugged, I'll be thrilled!
Old 09-21-2010, 09:36 PM
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You're welcome and good luck.
Old 09-22-2010, 07:13 AM
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One more thing to keep in mind.... Just because unplugging the tps mad it run smoother, doesn't mean the tps itself is bad, or the wiring... usually when the tps, or wiring is bad, that will throw a cel code....It could (and I bet IS) be a vacuum leak... the tps runs in conjunction with the afm and o2 sensor to set fuel mixture, so if the tps says there should b "x" amount of air coming into the tb, and the afm says there IS "y" amount of air coming into the tb, the fight each other, and make the truck run weird, also keep in mind, that in order to set the tps correctly, you must have vacuum....

Last edited by Team420; 09-22-2010 at 07:15 AM.
Old 09-22-2010, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Team420
One more thing to keep in mind.... Just because unplugging the tps mad it run smoother, doesn't mean the tps itself is bad, or the wiring... usually when the tps, or wiring is bad, that will throw a cel code....

No, not always. If the signal is bad or erratic, it won't throw a code. IOW's, even if the TPS is telling the ECU the throttle valve is closed when it's not, as far as the ECU's concerned, it's still a normal voltage signal. But, if the ECU were to loose contact/voltage signal from the TPS due to a) a dropped voltage signal to the TPS and consequently no feedback from the TPS, then it'll throw a code. Or, b) the IDL signal itself is lost.

As well, if you remove the offending component from the equation (atleast in this case) that's sending erroneous signals, the ECU will go into default (or preset values) and run the vehicle, regardless, utilizing feedback from the other major components. So, if nothing else (ie. major componetry, vac leaks, fuel pressure issue, etc.) is wrong, then it should run better because of this default mode.

There's atleast one article at autoshop101.com discussing this "method" in similar fashion. I'd have to find it again to show you, but then you could read, too. I'll see if I can find it, though.



It could (and I bet IS) be a vacuum leak... the tps runs in conjunction with the afm and o2 sensor to set fuel mixture, so if the tps says there should b "x" amount of air coming into the tb, and the afm says there IS "y" amount of air coming into the tb, the fight each other, and make the truck run weird, also keep in mind, that in order to set the tps correctly, you must have vacuum....
No vacuum is needed to set the TPS unless you're referring to vehicles equipped with a vacuum operated throttle opener. In which case, an external source of vacuum is all that's needed to operate it. Like your lungs, for example. The opener rod/piston/whatever simply has to move out of the way so the throttle plate will shut fully.

Now, even if by unplugging the TPS makes it run better, you should still run the tests to determine if it is wirinig or the sensor. The disconnecting method is only to help pinpoint.
Old 09-23-2010, 02:47 PM
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Thanks guys. Going to test the wiring and TPS this afternoon or in the morning. It's a pita getting those probes in there lol.
Old 09-24-2010, 01:46 AM
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Yes, it is. It helps if you take some small aquarium tubing (what I use) or something similar, cut short pieces that will not be so long that the probes can't reach the terminals, and push the tubing on to the terminals. Then, push the probes in. The tubing will hold the probes in place while you do whatever else you need to do.
Old 09-28-2010, 11:29 AM
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how do u install a new tps? i know u have to have a dvm and does it matter what direction u have to face the tps? cause my plug faces the intake manifold and on my girls 90 runner it faces 180 degrees. i have a 92
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