Another transmission problem
 

I searched but couldn't narrow my issues down.

My symptoms started about a year ago but have not shown for the last 6-7 months. Its seems to happen more when the truck is cold. When I start out she wont shift out of first gear and I can't go faster than 30mph without redlining her. I have to stop (sometime turn off and re-start) and shift through all gears including reverse. Then with it in drive I let my foot off the brake and let it coast forward, it seems to catch a gear with a thump/clunk. After this it will drive 100% fine.
The last couple of days this has happen when she was at running temp. If I came to a stop after normal highway driving and shut off the truck it would act the same after restart.
Yesterday a new symptom started. The rear ABS light is now on and wont goo off (brakes work fine). I pulled codes for the engine, trans and ABS but none are present. ABS does blink once then stays on and wont go off, not sure if this is anything.
I thought I was having a silinoid(sp) problem but with out a code I'm not sure. Not sure if the trans and ABS issues are linked or not. The only thing I noticed is that the throttle cable's outer casing is is seperating near the adjuster. Fluid levels are within normal range (trans, brake and PS), trans cooler installed 12 months ago.
Anyone have any ideas before I get bent over at the garage?

Thanks
Ax

93 4Rnr, 3.0, A340H auto

Sounds alot like my problem. I also have the a340h auto in mine. I checked my transmission & the fluid was fine. Started just last monday morning when i was going to school. Pulled out of the driveway and it wouldnt shift out of first. So i fiddled with it a little like you described and finally it drove normal for about 20 miles to school. Then i went to go home, and it was doing anything. Yikes. So my baby is at the transmission shop now. :( Its getting rebuilt by the best guys that i know of around here. 3100-3300 to completely rebuild tranny and x-fer case. The guy told me that if you rebuild one you have teo rebuild the other. Im no expert in the slightest at transmissions but as bad as it looked, i think it needed to be rebuilt..(stuff falling out):( :( :( So i had to break the bank. Maybe it will be good to go for another 200k. Let me know how yours turns out. Tim

$3300? I wish I could charge like that. The transfer case is an integral part of the transmission. You have to remove them as a unit and actually tear down the transfer case to get into the tranny. The are pretty much a single unit unlike most other 4x4 setups.

Some places sell the kits seperately, I guess so if you just have a transfer case problem cause if you go into the tranny you have to have all the parts to re seal the transfer case anyway so a transmission kit would do you no good without the transfer case kit.

anyone have any ideas??

This is the only idea I could think of... Best of luck!! Hope someone chimes in for a way to fix other than getting bent at the shop. :pat:

Sounds liike it is a #2 shift solenoid. Push on the gas pedal when your checking the codes. I have to do that to trigger the codes sometimes for some unexplained reason.

Are you using a scan tool to pull the codes ?
If not, that's what you really need to do/have done.





Fred

Pull your pan and see if it is full of junk. If it is and the fluid is burnt smelling then you better save up.

If the fluid looks good and smells good and there is no or VERY little debris in the pan then you can check or change solenoids while you are there. A solenoid wouldn't necessarily cause a code if it is stopped up. But It should always set a code if it fails electrically. If your check engine light, ABS light, ETC. came on, there should be a code stored in the computer. Provided the battery hasn't been dead or disconnected.

In one of the books at work I read that the scanner will not always show the codes for this system if the base idle is not adjusted correctly and the throttle plate is not seated. I can't remember where, just read that once at work while I was pulling codes out of my 4Runner. Jumping the terminals will usually display the codes in this situation even when the scanner will not.

BTW I jumped the terminals...

Been driving her all week with no tranny problems at all, shifts great and pulls hard, even in 4Hi. I did also let her warm up for 5 minutes or so each time in the morning.

another idea..... Could the placement of the trans cooler cause problems? I installed it under the skid at baout a 60 degree angle. Maybe as she cools down trans fluid is being pulled out of the pan or something? Don't really thing this is possible with a properly filled system, just an idea. If there is a 5% chance the this could be a problem I will remove it at least during winter.

I really want to do a flush but I know the risks involved with that.

....Anti-Lock light is still on too

This is probably the reason i had no code. Idling @1250.:con: Tim

could be:

weak pump + cold fluid= delayed shifting or

shift solenoid or

valve body shift valves sticking...

I dont know but mine better work like a champ or its going back first thing on warranty. As much as im paying. Tim