Another 3vze running issue!! please help
 

I have done weeks worth of searching tried every recomendation from every other thread, I have gone thru the fsm and followed the flow charts with no luck.

So.....here we go from the top
1990 4runner 3vze auto sr5. tranny shot, bought 93 4runner 3vze auto sr5
pulled trans, and motor(just in case).Transplanted the good trans in to the 1990 put in a new fuel pump and lines (they always break)and started it up and KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK.... time to switch the motors (at least I planned ahead). Swap goes well I get the last of the vac lines connected correctly and turn the key( i primed the pump first in the diag port) no start, double checked the ign timing. So it tries to fire up, lots of sputtering and some times if i hold the throttle open it will start (barely) i have to pump the throttle rapidly the it will eventually idle. Once it is running for a bit and warms up it starts every time!


Here is what I have checked so you dont waste your time writing

Checked spark- good
checked fuel- good (cant check pressure dont have special banjo bolt(sst)
circut open relay-good
relays and fuses-good
changed injectors and fuel rail
I had to modify harness for dist. but I GOT SPARK SO THAT IS OK
no vac leaks
checked the cold start injector swithch (temp sensor)
I am sure there are other things I have tested but cant remember. I have a new born and we are down a vehicle so life is tuff I need my YOTA running.

Thanks in advance for your help!!

BobZombie
Auto Sound Innovations

Hey Bob, I have a question. So you spent all this money and time swapping tranny's and engines because yours went out.

Have you heard about the 3.4 swap? Its a swap from the newer 3rd generation 4runners, into our 2nd gen trucks. The engine is lighter, and puts out way more torque and horses. Everything is bolt on! I think you may have to get a couple adapters online but that is it! You may just wanna search on here about it.

You should come here next time you think about swapping/ have problems! :)

I would say check your vaccuum hoses or your distributer. Since you modified it that may not be a good thing.

Thanks for your quick response. I found this site a few weeks ago (long after the purchase of the doner Runner.
I would love to do a build like that in the future but currently this is what I am stuck with.

The dist. swap was done correctly ( the dist is from the motor I swaped in but the connecter on the runner was not the same so I had to solder in the other connector. Spark is good

I have gone over the vac lines multiple times per the fsm (which by the way is CRAP for vac diagrams)
Any other ideas (i know you have some good ones) I have read many of them and tried what applied to me but with no success.

bump for help PLEASE

sounds like a spark/timing issue.
I will second the advise to go 3.4...


But, to fix your immed probs
why didn't you just use the distributor from the original?

if you are using the original computer, igniter and coil, I think you'd better stick to the original distributor.
The comp, the igniter, the coil and the distrib all work together to make spark at the right time. I suspect you have missmatched parts and they aren't compatible.


I just hope the orig comp will run the trans.

I agree it sounds like a timing issue to me. have you got the distributor cap 180* out of whack? it can happen...

Did you check your timing?

Sorry I should have stated that after it finally starts and idles for a bit IT runs fine accel is fine, no miss power seems to be ok.
The dist has 4 wires I tested the signal from each wire before changing the connector also the wire colors are the same(i know this doesnt absolutly mean that the are the same which is why I tested output first)
Timing is right ! i checked and set per FSM exactly.
Wouldnt run if it was 180 out.
Thanks for your responses! Any other ideas??? :think:

Is the TPS adjusted correctly? When mine was out of adjustment and I adjusted the timing I was basically at no advance on the timing. Had one start up in the mountains where the car would barely start, but once it got warmed up it was fine.

yea cheack timming similar thing hapin to me and have u toched ur timming belt befor?

So it was actually running ok I did'nt get that...
did you check your cold idle up pot? [The little gizmo that increases the throttle on start up to help warm up] If it runs fine once it is warmed up this could be part of the problem.

TPS adjustment could be an issue I guess, but not likly the manifold (including tps are from the old engine that other then the horrible rod knock started right up and ran (throttle responce was fine) It could be out of adjustment possibly. I will check FSM and follow test for "voltage at position..."
I did not change or move timing belt(only inspected it)
Timing is correct, both engine and ignition.

Once I get it started it does high idle until temp is up then down to 800rpm as per the FSM

When the runner sits (cold) and I try to start I get Combustion intermittenly like its trying to start but wont on its own so i feather the throttle and it slowly starts. I have to pump the throttle rapidly to get it to catch fully.

Just remember that if the TPS is out of adjustment, the apparent correct timing will be off by quite a bit.

I second the TPS idea. If you are getting an inaccurate reading from the TPS then your computer has no idea how far open the throttle is.

Ok so I agree that I need to do the volt/ohm testing on the TPS
but what I dont understand is the tps was not removed from the original manifold and worked with out issue on the old engine.
When I put the new engine in I used the old manifold and never moved the tps. Since my issue I removed old manifold put new manifold back on and swaped the tps but still have the same issue, It is slightly better then it was with the old manifold on the new engine but not much.

Hope this makes sense!?!
Thanks again for all of your time and input!

EDIT: for stupid newb question
So back to the point of the post
;)

Testing the TPS now let you know in a few

Ok so I get home from work and the runner starts rather well???
Not perfect but much better then before. If i hit throttle when starting today it would stall immediatly, So I turned key off and tryed again with out the throttle and got combustion right away, I hade to hold the starter longer then I should have to in order for the engine to run on its own.
I checkd tps signals per FSM and all are with in spec!!

Any other Ideas??:help:

FYI: I did a complete tune up this past weekend so there are no spark issues


Sorry for the string posting

Have you tested the air flow meter?

Also, check the starter signal circuit at the ECU for voltage. Should be 6V's or more.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...e/102engin.pdf

maybe the cold start injector is sticking open when cold starting it.