deathrunner

Allright, I've had it for a while and now I have some issues.

First things first, when I'm over 65 and I let off the gas or get back on gas, I hear a vibration. It was first thought to be my 3rd member, but we fixed all of those issues and I still have the vibration.

So I get under the truck and shake the disc with truck in neutral and pbrake off. It is nice and tight.

I look at the brake pads. They are severely scroed as if I have been driving with it on, which I have not.

So I look to see why it is rubbing. The caliper opens wide enough to avoid contact, but it sort of floats freely leading me to believe that it will hi9t on oneside and shott that direction, then hit the opposite side and shoot back and so on.

Does anyone else experience this? I would hate to have to replace the pads this often as they are attached to the caliper which costs $80.00

Any help or suggestions to rid the vibrations and save pad life would be much appreciated, it is annoying as hell.

FirstGenTankota

I bought my setup from Sky but I think it is mostly the same deal. I just looked at mine and there are springs between the pads pushing them away from each other, preventing chatter. Do yours have springs, if not maybe you could rig some up. My springs are on the bolt that the pads travel on.
When I first installed mine, I got what sounds like the same vibrations you described. These were because the flange bolts kept vibrating out, throwing off the balance. Maybe you lost a drive shaft weight?
The only problem that I have now is that my rear output seal spews oil all over the whole brake system. Guess what I'm doing this weekend?

deathrunner

Well, you are pretty close there zach.

I have the springs so I suspected that was not culprit. I called Allpro, they said to make sure the bolts they slide on (As well as everything else) are tight.

So I tried to tighten them, but they were as tight as could be. So I looked at the springs and play and it seems to have too much play.

So I took it appart and figured I'd try putting some washers in there to firm it up.

I put washers between the mounting bracket and the lever bracket, it firmed the pads up nicely, didn't have a chance to test drive it though.

So, I started to adjust it and I find that it is alot firmer now, and teh pads stay a decent distance form the rotor, but the lever requires a lot more movement to clamp down hard enough.

It got dark so I had to put it away. I was thinking about it all through my lessons tonight and i think I figured out how to fix it.

The washers do the trick, but I put them in a bad spot. Where I have them works for the pads, but it effectively spaced out the activation arm, so it requires more movement to engage.

So, I will put the washers on the otherside of that, and I should be good to go.

I'll try it and test drive it tomorrow. Hope it does the trick.

Marc P

Damn Seth..one thing after another. Hopefully you will get that thing dialed in so you can wheel the piss out of it.

deathrunner

It doesn't really matter, this is a trivial thing, it's like trying to tackle an itch on your back. Just annoying really.

I want my truck perfect , who doesn't? So I obssess on small crap like this.

It's cool I think I might have it figured out. We'llknow pretty soon here.

I'm going camping at the wells if this thing is fixed or not.

deathrunner

Well, I tweaked on it all morning.

I could only get one thing to happen. Either it would be tight and secure when open, so as to avoid the vibration.....or it would brake but rattle when open.

SO I am frustrated. 200 bucks for a hunk of weight that won't function.

I played with washers and placement all morning trying to find a way to space the pads close enough to the disc so the limited movement would clamp hard neough and far away enough so that when it opened it woudl hold securely.

I have one more optiona nd that is to get some larger springs...

So, where can a frustrated long-haired man find a variety of springs?

These springs need to push outward (not pull inward) and need to bee slightly larger than 1/2" ID. length would be good at about 2-3" and a firmer coil.

tallboy

How old is your rear output flange? I had a simular issue with mine, I had alot of slop inmy rear output flange. Even alittle would cause a problem with the brake considering that the deflection would be magnified by the diameter of the brake rotor. Just a thought.

Good luck

Greg

RobG

Seth,

I use McMaster for springs in small quantaty (www.mcmaster.com) and lee spring for either more variety or higher quantities.

Remember I was having similar problems with the noise upon decelerating. Turned out the nut holding my drive flange on was loose, tightened it up, restaked it and it has been good.

Never seen a transfer case parking break up close might have better luck posting on pirate, those guys are always complaining about them.

Hope you get all the problems ironed out soon.

Rob

Napoleon047

check to make sure that your rear d-shaft is in phase. some shops just pull half the d-shaft from the slipyoke instead of the whole thing and dont reinstall it properly.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Call the guys at YOTAMASTERS, preferably Jay King, or Eric Hansen (Max Volume on Pirate).
951-279-0220

They seem to know a LOT more about it than the current folks at AP do as Jay used to be at AP until he went out on his own.

Keep us posted.

deathrunner

Peter- how do I make sure it is "in phase"

Waskilly- thanks I'll give them a call.

My flange feels tight, so I am pretty sure the nut is tight. I was paranoid about it during the install, so I made sur eto stake the nut pretty well.

deathrunner

WASKILLY,

Thanks soooo much. Jay is the parking brake GOD! He basically told me everything there is to know about it. hahahaha

H econfirmed alot of the things I had already tried and pointed me in the right direction.

Here are some things I learned concerning vibration:

1. These things are quiet at first, but very commonly like to get noisier as they loosen up.

2. The rotor can become warped if you drive with it on (and heat it up). But this is highly unlikely as the cause for vibration, because he drove 40 some freeway miles with it on and his is still straight (NOT RECOMMENDED of course)

3. The transfer flange will have a very timy amount of play and because of the design there will always be some. He said not to obssess on this. If the nut is tight and staked, then it is fine. (Mine was still tight and staked, byu teh way)

4. This is the big one ADJUSTMENT IS THE KEY TO FIXING THE VIBRATION. The unit will woobble and bounce when it is disengaged and loosened up from time. Especially when on the freeway.

5. The large arm used to pull the cam lever is best when set to 90 degrees from the unit (pointing straight to the back diff, nearly)

6. Experimenting with mounting options for the arm return spring will help to keep the caliper and all the linkages tight. (Currently mine is attached to a cotter pin through the cable hole and attached to the bolt nearest the driveshaft that holds up the gas tank skidplate.)

I haven't gotten mine over 65 yet (The problem area), but everything seems alot tighter and it actually brakes very well now. Idrove with teh windows down and hit 50 on a long stretch and did not smell any burning brake pads, so I imagine contact with the rotor is not an issue.

I will report back when I test it over 65.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Like it says, just read my sig.