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Aftermarket Ignition Coil

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Old 07-25-2013, 10:38 AM
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Aftermarket Ignition Coil

Hey all, I have another question (hope you are tired of me yet...) about aftermarket ignition coils. I found one online from Advance Auto that delivers up to 45k volts, a nice upgrade from the stock replacements that run at around 25k volts.

Here's the link to the one I'm looking at, a Pertronix Flame Thrower II coil:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...6-p#fragment-2

It matches the factory Primary resistance at 0.6k ohms, and Secondary range at 10.0K ohms.

My questions are:

1. Do I need anything fancy to wire it up? It seems like I just run the positive and negative wires off the old coil and just plug in the ignitor coil wire to the dizzy.

2. Will this work without replacing any other parts? I've seen people run 7MGE coils (they run at about 40k volts) with increased performance without replacing anything else. From what I can gather online though, some systems will not notice any different unless you add some sort of aftermarket performance ignition system or replace the ignitor. Not sure if that's the case with our trucks.

Any input or experience is appreciated!

Last edited by Gamefreakgc; 07-25-2013 at 11:03 AM.
Old 07-25-2013, 10:59 AM
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I'm subscribing myself to this thread because I've had the same question but it sounds like you've thought about it a bit more than I have. I think an Accell or MSD will work too.
Old 07-26-2013, 10:06 AM
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Ok, after doing some more research, I'm more educated on the ignition system.

Basically, it seems as though the key component is whether the distributor has an HEI (High Energy Induction) or breaker point ignition system. If it's an HEI (looks like some sort of black magnet on the distributor) then these coils will be awesome. If it's a breaker point, there's little to no difference. Lots of info here: http://www.centuryperformance.com/fo...tion-Coil-Tech

I'm going to take apart my distributor and try and figure out what kind I have. The low resistance of the stock coil makes me think it might be an HEI... but not sure. Any input is appreciated. Hopefully this can help others wondering the same thing.

Last edited by Gamefreakgc; 07-26-2013 at 11:42 AM.
Old 07-26-2013, 10:50 AM
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I'm wondering as well, as I've heard many say that nothing beats OEM for spark plugs, plug wires and distributor for these trucks, but no mention of the coil - the next step in this equation.

There has to be some way to get a little more pep by upgrading the ignition system at some point in the chain.
Old 07-26-2013, 12:10 PM
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First, you don't have a breaker point ignition. I don't think they have been used in production autos for the last 35 years.

So far as I understand it, the spark either fires or it doesn't. If you seriously overheat the coil, or run it way over 8,000 rpm, or mis-match the igniter, it might not be able to keep up (mainly due to core saturation, which is temperature dependent). Then you have very noticeable mis-firing. But having a "hotter" spark or one of a different color isn't going to make a detectable difference.

Unless you want to follow an article written by someone selling "performance" coils for a living.

I suppose if you completely rebuild your ignition system (from the plugs through the igniter all the way back to the battery), you might have to get a different coil. But for my money, the engineers at Toyota knew what they were doing, and the stock coil is the one that will work day in and day out.
Old 07-26-2013, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by scope103
First, you don't have a breaker point ignition. I don't think they have been used in production autos for the last 35 years.

So far as I understand it, the spark either fires or it doesn't. If you seriously overheat the coil, or run it way over 8,000 rpm, or mis-match the igniter, it might not be able to keep up (mainly due to core saturation, which is temperature dependent). Then you have very noticeable mis-firing. But having a "hotter" spark or one of a different color isn't going to make a detectable difference.
So I'm still researching and have contacted a few companies, and here's what I've learned:

The last model of our trucks that have aftermarket HEI's that worked was the 22R in 1987, so no go for a 3VZ-E. The only ones out there are racing application coil systems like Jacobs Ignitions or the MSD systems, which, I agree, are a total waste of money for these trucks. We don't exactly drag race in these things...

The point of running a bigger coil is for larger gaps, which provide a larger spark, meaning a fuller more complete combustion. I have a slight miss on my engine and I've checked or replaced everything but the coil. I think that 22 years on my coil has taken it's toll, simply replacing it would help. But why just replace if an aftermarket coil (with same specs) that delivers up to twice the volts will work even better? Still looking into it though.
Old 07-26-2013, 06:37 PM
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hehe, points ignition. i'm not a "youngin" by any means, but i've only seen a handfull of engines with points. scope is right though, the best coil for your truck is the one thats already in it.
Old 07-26-2013, 07:10 PM
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Several folks doing the supra AFM swap also install a Supra ignition coil (leaving factory in place in case supra coil fails) and set spark plug gap to supra specs and report good results. They might upgrade to the 8mm wires too -- I can't recall. But definitely more volts here and hotter spark.

Haven't done it myself, but search is your friend.
Old 07-26-2013, 07:26 PM
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But with a supra AFM and more air, and if you're adding hotter spark, it's prob a good idea to install a wide band O2 sensor too...

I have these notes in my to do document (search for articles on here -- I don't think I'd do some of his mods but worth considering).

Nashman00's mods:
7mge supra afm richen by 6 teeth
7mge air box
K&N drop in filter
7mge ig coil
7mgte big body alt 180 amp
copper plug's gapped to 7mge spec
NM 3 inc intake tube w/ isr delete
NM shifter
reed, egr vavle rez delet
apexi neo (fuel computer)
flex alight fan
ngk wires
copper plugs gapped to 7mge supra spec
plx m300 wide band (for tuning)
timing set to 12
doug throley header's
maganaflow high flow 2.5 cat and flowmaster 40 sereis
re rooted fuel line's away from the header to keep them cool

-----

Yes i know this is an old thread. I just performed this swap on my 94 3vze ext cab. The short answer to your question suprathepeg is YES. I drilled out the air idle bypass screw, set the cog 6 teeth rich and built an ISR which took the longest time. i plugged in the afm and started the truck. it stumbled a lot at first but i adjusted the air idle bypass screw IN and it ran great. i re-timed the truck played with the idle to get it to be correct. i quick test drive confirmed that this a very good mod for any 3vze owner looker for power. By the time i finished playing with the idle control and timing i had the throttle body idle screw most of the way out as well as the afm idle screw most of the way out. the timing on my truck is set at 15*. As a side note i also have the the supra coil installed and 8 mm wires. As Nashman00 said..THIS IS A MUST DO MOD!! my 3vze is now a hot rod

thanks to Nashman for the write up
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