DupermanDave

I pulled the throttle body off the 22re a few days ago to adjust the TPS. When I pulled the throttle body off, there were 2 coolant lines that may have air trapped in them.

Basically, when I start the truck it now idles at like 1800 RPM and when it warms up it drops to 800 to 1000 RPM. I burped the system a lot over the past 2 days, but it's still happening. I was sitting in the parking lot warming up the truck to burp it and the idle would slowly climb and then drop down again. Also, if it's idling fine at 800 RPM and I give it gas, it will stay at a pretty high RPM.

I've also noticed it's not idling properly anymore. It sounds like it's misfiring and running rough.

I'm thinking it's either air in the system or a vacuum leak. I used a brand new gasket for the throttle body, but previously I had RTV. I may remove the newer gasket and just replace it with RTV since that's what I've had the most luck with. What do you guys think the problem is?

By the way, if I unplug the TPS it still runs poorly and idles erratically.

myyota

It sound like either the TPS is not properly adjusted or its bad.

OrRunner

iTrader: (1)

Hey man, I just was working on some issues kind of like yours:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...r-help-220315/

dont know if the link will help but check it out, also I would think that if you unplug the tps and your still having the issues, the tps may not be the culprit, or it may be a combination of things. also, I think that my O2 sensor played a minor role in this as well. A couple of other things that you may check, would be wiring for fuel, at the injectors ect, vacum lines which you already checked i think you said, and also how you put the tps back into the T/B. Let us know what you come up with

HighLux

Check the idle air valve and tps. Air in a coolant line wont affect idle.

Why did you take it off to adjust tps anyway?

Did you clean the throttle plate?

DupermanDave

I took the throttle body off to adjust the TPS because it was freezing outside and I'd rather work on it indoors. I didn't take the TPS off of the throttle body, I just removed the throttle body from the intake manifold.

So even if the tps is badly adjusted, even with it unplugged it could cause a bad idle?

I thought about cleaning the throttle plate, but it really wasn't too bad. I did clean off the old rtv gasket from the throttle body and intake side and made sure the surfaces were smooth.

I think when I get home I'll just put the RTV back on since that cures most of my issues, but I think my main questions are: 1) even with the TPS unplugged, would that affect the idle speed, and 2) could it be air in the IACV?

HighLux

If you have the throttle body off....clean everything up. iac. throttle valve...everything. Autozone even has special throttle body cleaner.

If something goes wrong....right after you work on something.....chances are..it has something to do with the work you have just done....never go through the trouble of taking something off/apart without cleaning the parts
before reassembly. I bet your iac is all gooed up.

I have always adjusted a tps on the car...I kinda want it running when i do it...

A film of dirt on a maf or mass air sensor...can throw air fuel off...

Clean stuff first...then figure out if it works correctly....

thook

With the throttle sensor disconnected, the idle should jump up and run smooth........IF nothing else is wrong.

DupermanDave

I just replaced the gasket today and cleaned up the throttle body. It really wasn't bad to begin with, but it didn't hurt to clean it. I used the same paper gasket I had and I Just put red RTV on both sides. There should be absolutely no vacuum leak there now.

I was also testing it checking the IACV by feeling the coolant hoses coming out and they're both really hot, so I'm sure coolant is flowing through that. I am going to need to burp the system tomorrow morning. I'll post my findings after everything is done.

DupermanDave

I plugged in the TPS and burped the system a bit ad it idles low again, but it's still erratic and rough. Still idles around the 800 rpm mark, though.

DupermanDave

So I got the idle to go back down to a steady spot when it's fully warm. What's the normal idle supposed to be on a cold start?

thook

Around 1200rpm cold idle. 850 when warm.

Edit: Sincere apologies. This would be correct if yours is an automatic.

DupermanDave

Hrmmm. Mine is at 1500 cold.

thook

Okay. But, does it idle down as the engine warms up and idle smoothly/normally? Where does it idle when warm?

DupermanDave

When warm it's now about 800 RPMs, where it was before. I just went out and burped it some more. I'll see how it starts tomorrow.

It still sounds rough when it's fully warm. It sounds like it's missing. I think I'm going to time it again this weekend. Would timing be an issue? TPS and coolant shouldn't throw off the timing at all, one would think.

99blackSE

iTrader: (1)

Have you checked your timing chain?

thook

Lol.......well, the TPS certainly would. How long have you been on YT, now? I'm just giving you a hard time 'bout that, but yeah......read all over YT and you'll see a bazillion threads on TPS and timing issues.

It's probably safe to say you've burped the system enough.

thook

Dave.......note my edited post above, please. #11

Is it possible you have the vacuum lines on the throttle body mixed up/routed incorrectly?

DupermanDave

I don't think any vacuum lines got mixed up, as the only ones I took off had little clips to keep them all in a row.

Mine is a manual transmission. This morning it idled at 1500 and when warm it went from 600 RPM to about 850 RPM at various stop lights. I'm definitely rechecking the timing this weekend when I can get to the timing light.

DupermanDave

I have the floppy idle now. The idle will surge when at a stop light. I'm back at square one. I had this same problem a year ago.

I think the TPS is adjusted improperly (even though I followed the directions to the key). With the TPS unplugged, the floppy idle goes away. Also, spraying water on the intake doesnt adjust the idle at all, so it's not a vacuum leak (like it was last year).

I guess I'll be pulling the throttle body off again to adjust the TPS...AGAIN.


Before I do, let me get some help with the TPS adjustment. I have an auto ranging multimeter, so when I follow the instructions here: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml this is what it says to do:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Loosen both screws attaching TPS to throttle body.

Attach multi-meter to TPS terminals IDL and E2 (the bottom two terminals on the TPS). You can use alligator clips to make this easier or use small ¼” lengths of vacuum hose to hold them on

Insert 0.85mm (22RE) or 0.77mm (3VZE) feeler gauge between throttle stop screw and throttle plate (see picture)

Move TPS body CW/CCW until ohms reading on multimeter is infinite (open)

Move the TPS body very slowly CCW until you find the end of the resistive strip, the meter will indicate <2.3Kohms of resistance

Move the TPS body extremely slowly in the CW direction until the meter goes to open/infinite again

Tighten the top TPS screw being very careful not to disturb the adjustment

Remove the feeler gauge and insert a 0.57mm (22RE) or 0.50mm (3VZE) feeler gauge

The meter should (hopefully) indicate between 0 and 2.3Kohms of resistance, if it does tighten the bottom screw and reconnect the electrical connector, if not go back to step 4 and try again

To check whether the adjustment was successful start the engine and insert the timing test jumper, if the idle speed decreases audibly it is working normally.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------


WIth my auto ranging multimeter, what would anything less than 2.3k look like? 2.3k is 23000...correct? I have to ask because I did this before and all was good, but apparently I messed it up somehow.

thook

2.3k = 23,000 ohm.........yes. So, anything less would look like anything less than those numbers. Count down from 2.3k. So, within the value expression, it would look like 2.2, 2.1, 2.0, on down. Except you don't want zero, of course. There has to be some resistance to regulate the voltage signal.

Anyway, you say all was good. What is/was the resistance value on you're meter when you ran the adjustment procedure above? So long as the sensor is set right at the point it would otherwise read infinite were you to move it CCW a hair....and, I mean just a hair.....and you're getting a value of less than 2.3k ohms and all your other circuits were in spec, then there's no problem. As 4crawler even says, time to test the wiring at the ECU if you're still having symptoms of a faulty TPS.

When testing the connector/wiring at the ECU run the same tests you would for the TPS. Then, compare the values you got at the TPS to the ones at the connector.