!994 V6 Truck Valve covers???
03-27-2009, 07:18 PM
#2
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Yes, I am in the process of doing the same thing. It is a weekend project IMO. I have broken the TVV (using JB weld to repair) several of the hoses, most notably the PCV and much of the wiring harness trim. Just plain brittle. Removing the electrical connections is difficult because they to are brittle. If you can, take off the manifold one weekend and plan to install it the next so you can get parts if needed. Take care and time removing the electrical connections. Also before you pull the valve covers make sure you clean the top of the engine, lots of stuff hides under the intake! Oh one final thing, make sure you cover the intake openings as soon as you remove the intake, don't want to drop things into the engine!
You will need intake and throttlebody gaskets, numerous fuel line gaskets, egr gasget at a minimum. Since you have it off, you may as well change the plugs, pcv valve and grommet too.
You will need intake and throttlebody gaskets, numerous fuel line gaskets, egr gasget at a minimum. Since you have it off, you may as well change the plugs, pcv valve and grommet too.
03-27-2009, 08:43 PM
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I did mine in about 8 hours. the only awkward part was getting all of the hoses and such off the manifold. Make sure you label all the vacuum lines as you take it apart. i didn't use gasket sealer with my new gaskets. I don't recommend it bc it started leaking again in three months. lots of gasket sealer would be good.
Take lots of pictures just in case you forget where somthing goes.
Take lots of pictures just in case you forget where somthing goes.
03-28-2009, 07:53 AM
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Are we talking about the same thing? You need to remove the plenum to access the valve covers, but I don't think you need to remove the intake manifold.
To replace the knock sensor (and particularly the knock sensor WIRE) you do need to remove the intake manifold. But the other comments (vacuum lines, brittle connectors) sound like removing the plenum. (Or course, the plenum comes off to get to the intake manifold.)
To replace the knock sensor (and particularly the knock sensor WIRE) you do need to remove the intake manifold. But the other comments (vacuum lines, brittle connectors) sound like removing the plenum. (Or course, the plenum comes off to get to the intake manifold.)
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03-28-2009, 08:01 AM
#8
This is incorrect.
You absolutely do have to remove the upper intake plenum on the 3VZ to remove either valve cover. As mentioned by others, I would also take the time to remove the lower intake while you are in there, and replace the knock sensor and wire with new parts from Toyota.
BTW, the "plenum" is part of the intake. Basically its Tomato Tomatto situation. For arguments sake, just refer to them as "Upper intake" and "Lower intake" since there are only 2 pieces of intake.
You absolutely do have to remove the upper intake plenum on the 3VZ to remove either valve cover. As mentioned by others, I would also take the time to remove the lower intake while you are in there, and replace the knock sensor and wire with new parts from Toyota.
BTW, the "plenum" is part of the intake. Basically its Tomato Tomatto situation. For arguments sake, just refer to them as "Upper intake" and "Lower intake" since there are only 2 pieces of intake.
Last edited by DeathCougar; 03-28-2009 at 08:03 AM.
03-28-2009, 09:10 AM
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I heard the knock sensors hardly ever fail, just the ponytail coming off of it? I found getting the covers off was still a PITA even after the plenum was removed. Mine were kind of jamed up near the front of the engine.
03-28-2009, 09:16 AM
#10
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I hope all of you get this worked out, I am doing this in a few weeks! Some pictures and a detailed parts list would be handy too........
By the way, why are you doing this? I am going to do it to (hopefully) stop an oil leak (I am pretty sure it is coming from the backs of the valve covers).
By the way, why are you doing this? I am going to do it to (hopefully) stop an oil leak (I am pretty sure it is coming from the backs of the valve covers).
Last edited by PCE91V64x4; 03-28-2009 at 09:18 AM.
03-28-2009, 02:26 PM
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PCE91V64x4 said: an oil leak (I am pretty sure it is coming from the backs of the valve covers).
A common problem. But you might clean the engine first to be sure (except that here gravity is helping; it's not likely to be higher than where you first see the oil).
Jay351 said: Make sure you put a few dabs of RTV ...
And I'll add: make sure the metal is absolutely clean before you do that. RTV is great stuff, but it doesn't stick to oil.
A common problem. But you might clean the engine first to be sure (except that here gravity is helping; it's not likely to be higher than where you first see the oil).
Jay351 said: Make sure you put a few dabs of RTV ...
And I'll add: make sure the metal is absolutely clean before you do that. RTV is great stuff, but it doesn't stick to oil.
03-28-2009, 03:29 PM
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PCE91V64x4 said: an oil leak (I am pretty sure it is coming from the backs of the valve covers).
A common problem. But you might clean the engine first to be sure (except that here gravity is helping; it's not likely to be higher than where you first see the oil).
Jay351 said: Make sure you put a few dabs of RTV ...
And I'll add: make sure the metal is absolutely clean before you do that. RTV is great stuff, but it doesn't stick to oil.
A common problem. But you might clean the engine first to be sure (except that here gravity is helping; it's not likely to be higher than where you first see the oil).
Jay351 said: Make sure you put a few dabs of RTV ...
And I'll add: make sure the metal is absolutely clean before you do that. RTV is great stuff, but it doesn't stick to oil.
03-28-2009, 06:19 PM
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I have a leaky right (pass..Side) cam seal, replaced seal.Thinking that 9 & 10 bearing cap bolts may need tighten...and a leaky valve cover....Cam seal is loose and leaking around the outer part of the seal...
Thanks for all the info
Robert
Thanks for all the info
Robert
10-01-2013, 05:10 AM
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If you have a 3vze long enough, you will get used to doing this. I can do valve cover gaskets in an hour or two these days. Seems like they will go 10-20k before starting to leak again. I'll reiterate the bit about the RTV also, if you don't do it you can guarantee a leak sooner than later.
Good time to check the valves too while you're in there.
Good time to check the valves too while you're in there.
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