ianscottdean

Like I said, I left for a week and now she won't start, never happened before. She's mad at me for leaving her behind. She did start initially, then died after 100 feet and threw a Code 13 Rpm signal to ecu missing above 1000 rpm and a Code 14 Igniter signal to ecu missing. I've tried since to start her, but it will fire up and die immediately or sometimes after heavy rumbling. Sounds like this has happened in several other threads here, and people have said its either ECU, wiring or the Igniter. Anyway I can narrow it down? I've checked all the obvious wiring connections around the unit and to the distributor, but they seem fine to me. If I do have to replace the Igniter, can I just replace the ignition coil as someone suggested or do I have to replace the whole thing? Mine reads 208 on the body of the unit, do I have to get an exact match, or can I pull one from a different year/ model reading 201 for instance and have it still work? Thanks in advance!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Ok when the ECU does not see the signal from the igniter it means no spark so it shuts off the injectors

So you get what your seeing the engine starts and dies .

There are no real shorts cuts

Have some heavy rain ECU`s are pretty robust unless they get wet or a voltage spike

Just how did you check things pull apart connections and clean or just look and call it good??

A loose or corroded ground can cause problems like this.

Now if your good you might be able to use different year igniters but you need to know the pin outs because they very well can be different then what you have.

Toyota likes to change out wire colors and pins on plugs

best to get the same one you have.

ianscottdean

I did take all the pin connections apart, look inside, and pin them back. Wiggle wires, follow their path looking for damage etc. but the wire running back to the ECU is within jacketting so I left that alone. I haven't taken grounds off and examined their connection so I can try that first. There's a replacement igniter of the exact match on ebay right now for $140, I think I'll just grab that before it goes away unless someone thinks there's a cheaper option. Thanks for your help.

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

What's the full part number on the ignitor? I have a 95 pickup with 22re, and some older trucks with the 22re to. I could probably cut the price in half if I have the correct one.

ianscottdean

Thanks atcfixer! Toyota told me the part number is 89620-35310 Igniter Assembly. I believe the years 93-95 will be an exact match if you have an older 22re, it says 208 on the face of it. Let me know what you find out. Thanks again

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

The igniter on the 95 isn't mounted on the truck. Not 100% sure if I pulled it and it's sitting in a box somewhere, or if it was missing when I got it. Figured I'd give you an update so you're not waiting too long on me if you need it quick.

I took a look at the two v6 trucks in my yard and both had different part numbers, and neither matched yours. I had a 91 22RE pickup too, but the parts from that era of time have been kind of mixed all over the place. Just dug though a box that I know was from that truck and grabbed out a really nice jack kit for a local guy, and a atc350x 3 wheeler part I was looking for lol.

ianscottdean

Thanks anyway! Just went ahead and picked a used one off Ebay, it'll be here in a week. Let you know if that was it! $120 guess, but sounds like there is little else it could be.

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

For the code 14, it's unlikely anything else. Wiring and contacts could be the cause (no connection), but wiggling the connectors and messing around in that area would likely bring it back to life just to die again down the road. Hopefully the new used unit solves your problem. Testing them isn't a super simple thing, easiest is to throw it on a truck and start it.

Good luck!

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

https://youtu.be/gBxaEfkWjvA

Think it was 1410 he builds the LED based logic probe.

Mud Taco

I got really sick and ended up in the hospital for a spell and then in a wheelchair for a couple months. My runner was parked at a friend house for a few months never driven. When I went to go get it, it wouldn't start. I tried jumping it of course. I beat up the starter with a near by crowbar pretty good to no effect. Then, I turned on the key, pushed in the clutch kill button, then tried starting it without the clutch in. It started up just fine. Ever since then (the last year and a half) she does this out of nowhere about once a month. Give that a shot, you never know

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Based on your description, you need a new clutch switch lol. I probably have 10 of them if you want to fix it =).

Mud Taco

I just wanted to describe it for the thread here in case this is what was happening for him. Thanks for looking out for a brother and letting me know. I figured it was just that. But since the clutch kill button has been working just fine on the rare those rare occasions, I haven't cared enough to swap that out. I really appreciate the kind offer though my good man.

scope103

If you're getting code 13 (no NE signal), then it follows you will get 14 (no IGF) because the igniter is not getting the correct signal to fire (and so doesn't send IGF).

While wiring is ALWAYS an issue (the codes tell you of a problem in a circuit, not in what part of it), code 13 is probably a distributor problem. I would start there: http://web.archive.org/web/201212070...12onvehicl.pdf

Sigh ... 16 minutes I will never get back.

Here's what I know about testing igniters (if you care) https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...gniter-287857/. If it's not quite what you want, you can scan the page and skip it in a few seconds.

ianscottdean

Well the rabbit hole gets deeper. I threw the new igniter in and immediately it started up and ran just fine- for a moment. About a mile down the road she started to hiccup and then soon died with a friendly CEL. It read 13 again, without the 14 this time. The next weekend I tried again. I cleaned the connections with the computer, although they looked fine. Then I decided I'd go ahead and replace the spark plug wires, because the problem seemed to get better and the only wire I felt uncomfortable with was the one from the distributor to the igniter. For a week I thought the problem had gone away. Now coming home today she almost died on me again and showed 13. Distributor?

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

As stated above code 13 is no NE signal which is basically a cam sensor on newer engines. It does have a spec you could use to test it with a multimeter, but if its intermittent it would be hard to test while it's in the "failed" mode. It could be wiring, but it's really hard to say w\o checking the wiring with a multi meter to the ecu and wiggling wires and such or replacing the distributor (or the sensor inside it).

You also mentioned the spark plug wire from the distributor to coil (mounts together with ignitor) was iffy. That wire is the most critical of the wires since all of the spark originates though that wire, gets distributed though the distributor and continues down the next plug wire to the desired plug. If it's questionable, I'd say replace it even if it isn't directly related to your Code 13 problem.

ianscottdean

Just to clarify, I did replace the spark plug wires including the wire from the distributor to the igniter but to no avail. Thinking I'll swap the distributor cap now. I took the cap off and it's probably overdue. Any chance this is the issue?

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Cap and rotor isn't a bad idea, I generally replace them when I get a new to me vehicle since they are pretty cheap typically, but it likely doesn't relate to code 13.

The NE signal generator / cam sensor / pickup coil is the electronic part in the base of the distributor next to the 4 pointed star.


Here is a good illustration that explains by photo what is going on a bit better than what words can do.

scope103

Did you check the distributor before swapping the igniter?

ianscottdean

I haven't looked into the distributor until now. Just replaced the cap on the unit and talked to the guys at the auto parts store about swapping out the sensor, but it sounded like I would have to replace the whole distributor to do that?

scope103

Hmmm. Sit on your butt and read the actual Toyota Factory Service Manual, or drive down to the parts store and talk to the kids behind the counter? Which one is likely to work best? A real head-scratcher.

The NE and G1/G2 pickups are not user-serviceable, so if they fail the tests I expect you'll need a new distributor (RockAuto has them for about $110). If you've got that kind of money just laying around, you could replace your current distributor without testing it. It would take longer than testing it first, of course.

I've never done any of the tests myself, and I note it calls for an SST to check G1/G2. I think the reason for that is a big magnet, so you need a non-magnetic feeler gauge. These aren't hard to find https://www.walmart.com/ip/Kd-Tools-...-.016/40459728 , but if you're really cheap you can use a stack of printer paper. Figure out how many sheets will just fit, then measure that stack with your calipers.

Also make sure the distributor shaft will not "wiggle." If the bearings are excessively worn that can cause an intermittent loss of the NE signal (as well as other problems). That definitely is not user-serviceable.

Good luck!