ZARTT

Greetings to all Toyotaheads. This will be a rather long post.
I'm a long time lurker, few time poster.
I've scoured this site for goody bits for a couple of years, taking info as I see that I needed it.
Since I just completed my fan/alternator upgrade, I feel that I now have something to contribute, rather than take away.
My mechanical fan clutch froze up, making the Runner sound like a 747 on a takeoff roll. It also dropped the already lousy 16.0 mpg down to 13 mpg.
I sourced a 2 speed integrated fan and shroud assy. from a Nissan Quest for $22.00 for the local PnP.
The fan controller came from a 94 Volvo in the same PnP yard. $12.00, Be sure to retrieve the controllers three plugs, and as much of the wiring for those plugs as you can.
I found the circuit wiring diagram that I used on this forum.
The temperature sensor is a BMW part number, You can choose from two, 170-190 degrees or 190-210 degrees. I mounted it in the upper radiator hose that I cut a section out of.
The pipe that the sensor is mounted in, is out of a mid 80's Nissan Sentra, and the adaptor is a cut down 85 Benz wheel lug nut that I brazed to the pipe. The wheel nut had the only thread pitch that I could find that would take the BMW sensor.
I had to do a lot of surgery on the Quest shroud to get it to fit the limited space, and still provide ample cooling. The fan has a unique blade shape, and it moves a lot of air, which is good. On the flip side, we all know how quick a 3.0 Runner can get hot, with the ensuing damage, so pay close attention to the efficiency of the mounting. I bought some very expensive Joe Gibbs racing foam pipe wrap (3/4 in.dia) to insert around the edges of the butchered Quest shroud to prevent any cooling air from taking the easier route, instead of going thru the radiator.
I used an off the shelf fuse socket (30amps) and a common relay to supply power to the Volvo controller. They are mounted in a box that is attached to the main fuse box on the passenger side with very expensive Joe Gibbs racing tie wraps.
OK now, all works well. Good cooling, no more 747 sound, and the mpg crawled up to 16 after a couple of tanks.

Now for the rest of the story:
After two or three months I noticed slightly dimmer headlights at night, and not the usual zippy starter cranking that I was used to with my new, very expensive Joe Gibbs racing AGM battery.
My battery was losing the volts race.
Time for a Road trip, alternator sourcing toga party I say.
So, back to the PnP for a GM CS-144 style alternator ($50.00) out of a 94 Cadillac Northstar motor. 140 amps at 2000 RPM, and 14.2 volts, 95-105 amps at idle with the cooling fan running, and all of my lights on.
The GM alternator has the same 6 o'clock/12 o'clock mounting ears that the Toyota does, but the upper one is .5 inch narrower, so 5 Joe Gibbs racing washers will make up the diff. exactly. They all go in the rear which moves the alt. forward.
Make sure that you get as much of the red positive alternator lead from the Caddy, that goes to the battery as possible. It is prudent to replace, or double up with the Toyota positive lead to the battery, since the Toyota lead is kind of skimpy, and not up to increased current carrying. The wire size of the negative side of the battery connection to frame ground should be increased also, since it is the black -DC volts in, and will be subject to the same current carrying chores as the red +DC volts out.
The bottom alt. mount is also the adjuster, and will have to be lengthened. This is where your fabbing skills come a little into play. Pay close attention to the swing of the alt in the mount, since it hits the bottom of the dist. on the outswing, and the bolt mounting the oil dip stick during the inswing.
The position I chose lets me use a 1255mm belt, and leaves me with about 2/3 of an inch outswing for more tightening if needed.
OK now the pulley!!
The Toy pulley is 3 rib serp., and the GM is 6 rib serp. I chose to mount the Toy pulley on the GM shaft. You can leave the GM pulley as is, but I thought it would look kind of goofy, so there.
The GM pulley is held to the shaft with a cone split washer and a big nut, There is a hex in the end of the shaft that allows it to be held while you tighten the nut to 1 gazillion foot lbs.
I reamed out the toy. pulley with a step drill to fit the GM cone washer, and mounted it up. This method allows you the ability to tighten it any where on the shaft for lateral belt alignment.
There is an adapter cable available from alternatorman.com that exactly adapts the Toyota alt. plug to the G.M. alt socket.
It is 30 bucks.
OK! I fire it up and get an interesting grinding sound.
This turns out to be the alt cooling fan grinding a path through the bottom resonator box of the air inlet system. Out comes all of the plastic again, and a mod is made to the box using a cutoff wheel and some very expensive Joe Gibbs racing epoxy.

Conclusions:
1.) No more 747 sound, but the same cooling efficiency I had previously.
2.) 3mpg more gas mileage, as 3.0 doesnt have to swing that fan anymore.
3.) Battery slowly losing out to voltage gods since alt. is only an 80 amp unit
4.) Slick new 140 amp. alt upgrade with gobs of amps and volts.
5.) 3mpg less gas mileage, as 3.0 works to turn slick new Joe Gibbs racing alt.

W.T.F.?????
Art.

AdmiralYoda

Yup you were right....that was a very long post.

scope103

Uh, why?

RockAuto has a replacement fan clutch for around $40. Both RockAuto and Autozone have a replacement alternator (rebuilt, not junked) for around $85. Just bolt them right in; no surgery, no trying to re-design your engine accessories. (And if I add your numbers correctly, lots cheaper.)