jason724

Hey guys,
I started the tear down on my truck so I can get the heads rebuilt (0 psi compression in cylinder #6). Here's a look at how far I've gotten, but I'm kind of not sure what to make of the fact that the markings on the pulleys don't seem to line up where they should when the crank is at 0. Any help would be greatly appreciated- this is my first time tearing apart an engine so I'm trying to make sure I'm thorough!










UPDATE 1/28/14- Here are some pics of how things stand as of a month ago. I plan on getting back to work to try and finish removing the heads this weekend.







I'm thinking the oil and carbon deposits in the intake plenum are a result of the truck running on 5 cylinders for about 6 months. I'm pretty sure the exhaust valve in cylinder 6 is completely shot so I had been driving it with the fuel injector for cylinder 6 disconnected. I also messed around with the timing and air fuel ratio for a while to improve the idle and performance while running on 5 cylinders.

millball

It doesn't matter where the marks are on tear-down. You will re-allign them when you go back together.

crazytexan

iTrader: (1)

That looks right to me, i just got done with my heads and it was my first time on a 3vze. If you dont change the belt, marking it L and R and a line on the belt to help getting it all back togather.

bone collector

http://ether3al.physic.al/93fsm-mobile/


here is your new best friend

AW1090

All looks good.. keep going... looks like you're marking everything so that's a plus. Have fun with with the pulley and crank bolts. I've got a thread on here with the teardown of my engine. It might help you out a little with what to watch out for plus I have links in it to other info. Good luck!

jason724

Thanks for all the tips!

AW1090- I checked out your teardown and found some useful tips.

I tried to create a stand to hold the cam pulley still using some old angle irons I had laying around, but it wasn't quite rigid enough. I picked up this tool from harbor freight for $8.99 and I'm hoping I'll be able to use it to hold the pulley still enough while using an impact wrench.

jason724

Quick update- No luck with the tool from Harbor Freight. It just bent and wouldn't hold. Searching around now to see if I can find a better tool for a decent price or rent it from somewhere.

Let me know if anyone has any suggestions (I live in central NJ). I'm trying to avoid sacrificing my timing belt and I don't have access to a welder at the moment.

earlycuyler88

I forget what size wrench you use but if you pull the valve covers there is a spot on the cams where you can put a wrench and use it to stop the cam

jason724

I saw a youtube video of someone doing that, but I'm just worried about any type of possible damage that may result from doing that.

earlycuyler88

Its actully better to do it that wat if you hold the gear you risk snapping the pin that holds the gear in place. As long as you use the right size wrench and put a rag between the wrench and the head surface you should be alright.

YotaWoRx

rattlewagon

^ This works like a dream.

bone collector

this works better

scope103

27mm. Alas, not an easy size to find, but 1 1/16 fits perfectly and is easy to get. Don't try to use an adjustable wrench; not enough room.

I wouldn't let the wrench touch any part of the aluminum head, no matter what was between the steel wrench and soft aluminum. Instead, just get a scrap 2x4 about 24" long, chop a slot in one end to hold the end of the wrench, and prop the other end against the edge of the engine bay. Since it's holding the wrench all the way out at the end, leverage works in your favor and there is very little force on the 2x4. Pull on the cam bolt all you want.

And I agree with earlycuyler88; this method is MUCH better than trying to hold onto the cam sprocket. The sprocket is prevented from turning only by the "knock pin," so if you try to keep the cam from turning via the sprocket you're putting all the load on the knock pin and the slot in the sprocket; not good!

jason724

Ended up grabbing one of these and it worked like a dream. Definitely worth the purchase especially considering I'll need it when I torque everything back down.

I'm currently having trouble removing all of the wonderful exhaust components. Specifically the exhaust crossover and the front exhaust pipe. Anyone have any tips? The northeast winters have certainly taken their toll and I've already soaked everything with PB blaster.

scope103

To remove the exhaust crossover, you will find it much easier if you get an offset flex-head ratchet.




To remove the front exhaust pipe, you will work from underneath the cat (approximately) with a string of extensions. Save yourself a lot of grief; get good-sized 1/2" drive extensions. http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-67977.html (these are pretty cool; they lock to each other) If you have a nice "wobble" set http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece...ons-67971.html DON'T use it; you're going to really wail on the wrench, and with the reduced neck (to produce the wobble) you'll break the extension.

jason724

@scope103 - Wow, that's a clean looking engine bay you have there. Thanks for the advice to get an offset flex-head ratchet, but I think I had more of a problem getting to the third crossover bolt that is positioned below the bolt that you are wrenching on in your photo. (It's been a month since I've worked on it because I live about 5 hours away from the truck right now, but I'll be back there this weekend to get back at it)

It's funny that you mention to NOT use wobble extensions because I picked up a set from harbor freight explicitly for that purpose. I'm not sure if I still have the receipt so I might just give them a try and hope for the best. I have this impact wrench:
It claims 700 ft. lbs. of torque so I'm hoping it'll get the job done if I can get the right combination of extensions, but if I remember correctly there wasn't really a straight shot to the front exhaust pipe which is why I had opted to get the wobble extensions.

bone collector

I used a set of ratchet wrenches to get my crossover off. As well as the method described above

scope103

Don't forget that "regular" extensions (and sockets) are not intended for use with an impact gun. So don't forget your safety glasses; there's always the chance you could break something when using an impact gun.

jason724

Thankfully harborfreight is only ~15 min drive from my house. I picked up a set of impact extensions when I got the wobble extensions and I'm hoping some sort of configuration will get the exhaust pipe off.

As for the exhaust crossover- if I don't have any luck with my flex ratchets I'm going to seriously consider taking a sawzall to it. Tinkering around in a 20 degree garage takes a toll on my hands after a while.