dzimprich91

Ok I have searched and haven't found anyone that has had this same problem so I'm gonna do my best to describe it to you. My 94 22re has a horrible power loss after 3rd gear and is getting horrible mileage, and i mean like 120 miles a tank, not kidding. I replaced the head gasket and head with a performance head and new cam and rocker arm assembly. It has no power once i get to 4th gear, and i literally cant even use 5th gear because it won't pull the truck. The weird thing is that the idle screw has to be turned all the way in to get it to idle where its suppose to be.

Things I have done
1) checked timing, it was 5 btdc with jumper and about 12 without jumper
2) Check AFM and everything within specs
3) Checked tps its within specs on all measurements
4) Checked for vacuum leaks 3 times and can not find one
5) Checked compression, all cylinders have 155lbs
6) Checked fuel pressure, it had 44 psi with key on, 42 with vacuum off, and 36 with vacuum hooked up running
7) Changed plugs, wires, and rotor
8) New temp sendor
9) New thermostat
10) New O2 sensor
11) New injectors
12) Cleaned air intake
13) Cleaned throttle body and plenum
14) New pcv valve
15) Checked coil and its within specs
16) New alternator, and redid grounds and main power from battery to fuse box
17) brand new exhaust and header
18) New fuel filter

I might have forgotten something but for now thats what i can remember. I am at a complete loss with this pickup and I really don't know what I can possibly do next. If any of you have any ideas what could possibly be causing this issue i would greatly appreciate it

Gamefreakgc

Yikes, no kidding! I was going to suggest a few things... but you've covered that.

It's got to be a sensor/ECU issue. Something is giving a terrible reading and pouring on the gas.

You sure you don't have a aftermarket tank that's really small or something like that? Or are you running like 38" tires and never re-geared?

dzimprich91

Any idea what sensor it could possibly be? I have checked for codes with nothing coming up.

Also the tank is factory because if I'm on E it takes over 15 gallons and i know there is still fuel in the tank. My tires are only 235/75/r15 and all the drive train has the fluids replaced with redline products.

Gamefreakgc

I don't know man... this one's got me stumped. Hoping someone else knows more than I do.

KauaiRunner11

Not sure if the 22re has one, but I had a similar problem on my 3vze. It ended up being the ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor. It was telling the ecm to dump fuel in when not needed.

dzimprich91

Ya it has one and on the front of the thermostat housing and I put a brand new one in it. Thanks though

RJR

Did this just start after you replaced the head? I'd double check the valve timing.

dzimprich91

The power loss did but the mileage issue has been a continued problem. I thought the same thing, and I even contacted 22reperformance to find out if there were reasons for this to be happening. I bought the performance head from them along with the cam and rocker arm assembly. I checked the timing twice now, and when tdc on the crank the dimple in the timing gear sits at about 11:30 which is where its suppose to be from what i have read and heard. And I also thought maybe the distributor might be off a tooth but the adjustment on the distributor is about dead center right now and the timing is perfect so I figured that meant that the distributor was where it was suppose to be. If I'm incorrect on any of this please let me know and I will definitely look into it! Im willing to try anything trust me!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Looks like you have covered all of the bases well. You have great fuel pressure but could you have a small fuel leak? I have had a fuel leak in the past that would only show up occasionally when a fuel line was flexed just right. It was on a carbed truck. I would think the fuel pressure would show it on a electric pump. What about with it idling, trying to flex the rubber part of the lines and thoroghly checking the metal lines. Especially by the fuel tank where the dirt likes to sit between the tank and frame or at the fuel filter.

dzimprich91

Anybody have any other ideas? everything checked out that was told to check

RJR

You might try putting a vacuum gauge on the manifold and seeing what it reads at idle. Should be 17-20 inches or so. Significantly lower can indicate something funky in the valve timing, among other things.

dzimprich91

Ok update, I replaced both the cold start injector and time switch, all vacuum hoses, and checked the vacuum which was steady at about 19. Also swapped out an ECU. Checked valve timing to the crank timing and it was right on and checked engine timing and that was perfect also. So still no change at all in any of the symptoms. I can't even drive the truck anymore. I really don't know what to do anymore! Please if any of you have any ideas at all please let me know! thanks in advance!

chrisgreene243

Just throwing it out there. But take a quick look into your brakes. Possibly binding up?

dzimprich91

I have thought about that too but would i realize that right as I'm slowing down? I will look into it but how will i know if they are binding up? Will there be an obvious sign of this occurring?

Gamefreakgc

Yeah, put it in neutral after building up a little speed. If you don't coast slowly to a stop something's dragging. If it rolls just fine then it's not sticking.

RJR

If a brake is sticking enough to slow you down and cost you mileage it will be getting smoking hot fairly quickly as well.

dzimprich91

Ok well then my brakes aren't sticking because thats how I come up to stop signs and it gradually slows down, i usually coast as much as i can.

shortbusjeep

Any resolve to this?

I have a similar problem on a 94.

I bought the truck from a friend who only had it a few months, this is my 4th Toyota pickup but first with EFI, I drove it around on the street for a week or so and it ran great, ran at hwy speeds fine and had plenty of power(it's on 37s with 4.88 gears.) I took it down a wash board gravel road and 150feet into it the battery came loose and shorted itself, I was able to move battery, tighten mount and restart and drive home. Seemed ok on power at this time.

3 days later I get in it to drive it to work, on surface streets it seemed fine but as I got on the hwy it seemed to lose power (couldn’t use 4th) 3rd seemed to lose power on top of gear, after work on drive home seemed like no power at all, hard to start from a stop, barely could keep it going in 3rd.
I pulled EFI fuse and checked compression as there is fluid/dirt on front of motor and I figured the head gasket might have gone, but compression tested OK at 140ish for all cylinders(no more than 5 psi different per cyl)
I then read some online and even with no check engine light(CEL) I pulled codes, only code I got was 42(no speed sensor) it has dual cases and the Speedo doesn’t work, I figured it was just cause the cable was too short and it was a mech Speedo like the carb trucks I had, I dug through the parts bin and found an old Speedo extension and went to install it but the Speedo is electric.
Per 4crawler I trouble shot the Air flow meter(AFM) and it ohmed out correct,

I unplugged the cold start injector and no change in power loss during test drive.
I unplugged Throttle position sensor(TPS) and no change in power loss during test drive.

Tonight I plan to Check timing and trouble shoot the TPS per 4crawler.

I am no EFI guru but if I shorted the EFI it shouldn’t even run correct?
there was a ground from alternator harness to block that melted insulation and a ground from rear of head to body that melted I replaced both of them and didn’t find any other wiring damage from the short.

I was super impressed with how well this thing ran when I got it but now I miss the simplicity of a carb.