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94 p/u suspension upgrade ?
I have a 94 pick up with 320000 needs a new suspension. Going with OME Dakar HD leafs in rear . Can I get away with keeping factory Torsion bars? Are the greasable shackles worth getting? Can I run bilstein 5100 all the way around with the 2.25 " lift? Any input greatly appreciated. I haul tools and material around a lot is why I chose the HD Springs.
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Welcome to YT!
If you're carrying a lot of tools regularly, I think you could benefit the HD leafs. Depending on how much weight you carry, I'd consider the t-bars but you could technically do without them. On my truck, I wanted to just fix my saggy butt and get something that will last and be flexy, so I kept my stock t-bars and removed my swaybar. My dad was a contractor and regularly carried at least 1000lbs in tools with him daily - with a load like this, I think I'd prefer to put stiffer t-bars and keep the swaybar. His truck was a Chevy with stock leafs, but he added airbags to keep the rear up - that's another consideration, to use medium duty and add something else to help the rear. I never measured my truck when loaded up but it does drop with a heavy load in the bed, as it should, which is why I'm now considering shackles - you may be ok with HD leafs. In regards to shocks, I personally went with OME since it's a proven combo. I can't answer whether the Billies will fit, but the OME do. For shackles, I chose to skip them initially but want them now that it's all settled in. I think it depends on what height you want once its settled in and I can't really help since you will get the HD and I have medium. Remember OME says the lift is 2.5" (when settled in) so leafs by themselves with stock shackles will be a BIG initial difference in height and after settling with stock shackles you may want them. I'm sitting at 22.5" from center of axle to bottom of fender after several years and stock 3.5" shackles. I plan to get 5" shackles to get me around 23" (2" longer shackle = 1" more height). Only reason why I want to go up is because I can't drop the front down due to the 33x12.5" tires I run - I'm at the minimum height I can get without trimming/pounding more metal at firewall and rear fenders (front is also 22.5" with BJ spacers and t-bar adjust) Greasable is good for simplicity of lubricating everything quickly, but non-grease is good too since you have to physically examine parts when you want to service it. Also, since I wheel this truck, I chose to do ubolt flip later on after I noticed rear shocks being my limiting factor for flex. Though you're already dropping close to $1k in suspension parts, I'd strongly consider biting the bullet and replacing your worn out parts up front - it'll drive like a new truck! Ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm, steering stabilizer shock, service wheel bearings and CV bearings, control arm bushings, etc etc. Don't get the cheap China-made kit sold on eBay, get better quality parts. I like the "555" Sankei stamped parts because they're OEM quality, I usually find them reboxed as Beck-Arnley parts. Good luck! |
Originally Posted by highonpottery
(Post 52288083)
Welcome to YT!
If you're carrying a lot of tools regularly, I think you could benefit the HD leafs. Depending on how much weight you carry, I'd consider the t-bars but you could technically do without them. On my truck, I wanted to just fix my saggy butt and get something that will last and be flexy, so I kept my stock t-bars and removed my swaybar. My dad was a contractor and regularly carried at least 1000lbs in tools with him daily - with a load like this, I think I'd prefer to put stiffer t-bars and keep the swaybar. His truck was a Chevy with stock leafs, but he added airbags to keep the rear up - that's another consideration, to use medium duty and add something else to help the rear. I never measured my truck when loaded up but it does drop with a heavy load in the bed, as it should, which is why I'm now considering shackles - you may be ok with HD leafs. In regards to shocks, I personally went with OME since it's a proven combo. I can't answer whether the Billies will fit, but the OME do. For shackles, I chose to skip them initially but want them now that it's all settled in. I think it depends on what height you want once its settled in and I can't really help since you will get the HD and I have medium. Remember OME says the lift is 2.5" (when settled in) so leafs by themselves with stock shackles will be a BIG initial difference in height and after settling with stock shackles you may want them. I'm sitting at 22.5" from center of axle to bottom of fender after several years and stock 3.5" shackles. I plan to get 5" shackles to get me around 23" (2" longer shackle = 1" more height). Only reason why I want to go up is because I can't drop the front down due to the 33x12.5" tires I run - I'm at the minimum height I can get without trimming/pounding more metal at firewall and rear fenders (front is also 22.5" with BJ spacers and t-bar adjust) Greasable is good for simplicity of lubricating everything quickly, but non-grease is good too since you have to physically examine parts when you want to service it. Also, since I wheel this truck, I chose to do ubolt flip later on after I noticed rear shocks being my limiting factor for flex. Though you're already dropping close to $1k in suspension parts, I'd strongly consider biting the bullet and replacing your worn out parts up front - it'll drive like a new truck! Ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm, steering stabilizer shock, service wheel bearings and CV bearings, control arm bushings, etc etc. Don't get the cheap China-made kit sold on eBay, get better quality parts. I like the "555" Sankei stamped parts because they're OEM quality, I usually find them reboxed as Beck-Arnley parts. Good luck! |
400lbs isn't that much weight IMO for regular carry - do you ever go completely empty? I think OME says like 500-800lbs regular carry for the HD leafs - so if you have a lumber rack, camper shell and slide-in drawers then yes definitely get them. Many times I've had my truck loaded with over 1000lbs cargo on the mediums and there wasn't excessive drop, but it does load down at least 1-2".
In regards to the front - you will definitely notice the rake once you install the new leafs. I'd assume you'll get 3+" lift over stock, before they settle down to around 2-2.5" lift - mine was this way. To get my front leveled out I chose to install BJ spacers and mess with t-bar adjustment. I had 31" tires on the OME setup for a few years, the space doesn't look that bad. Definitely not as bad as the gap on everyones rigs running 4" bracket lift with only 31" or 33" tires. |
Originally Posted by highonpottery
(Post 52288124)
400lbs isn't that much weight IMO for regular carry - do you ever go completely empty? I think OME says like 500-800lbs regular carry for the HD leafs - so if you have a lumber rack, camper shell and slide-in drawers then yes definitely get them. Many times I've had my truck loaded with over 1000lbs cargo on the mediums and there wasn't excessive drop, but it does load down at least 1-2".
In regards to the front - you will definitely notice the rake once you install the new leafs. I'd assume you'll get 3+" lift over stock, before they settle down to around 2-2.5" lift - mine was this way. To get my front leveled out I chose to install BJ spacers and mess with t-bar adjustment. I had 31" tires on the OME setup for a few years, the space doesn't look that bad. Definitely not as bad as the gap on everyones rigs running 4" bracket lift with only 31" or 33" tires. |
ball joint spacers - they are a 1.5" thick piece of billet aluminum machined to fit the ball-joints. basically you put them in between the BJ mount and the UCA, thus they give 1.5" lift. You have to re-adjust the camber of the wheels and get an alignment afterward. The idea is that they will not only give the lift, but they supposedly give more down-travel because of what angles can be achieved. This is good if you wheel the truck, since you get more contact with ground and less 3-wheeling, which helps tremendously if you have open front differential.
you can also simply crank your t-bars to gain height, but this usually makes the front stiffer as a consequence because it adds preload to the tbar spring steel. with the bj spacers you can technically get 1.5" lift, then loosen the t-bar back down to stock height - this will give same height but less preload on the t-bars = easier articulation offroad. |
Replacing 4.5" lift blocks
Noob here with some suspension questions:
As the title suggests, i want to replace my current rear suspension lift. I bought the truck pre-lifted and have been racking my brain and spending hours researching this forum for the best solution. My options so far are: With the risk of getting kicked off this site, i was considering getting 4" skyjacker leafs because it's easiest. It will fit stock, if amazon ships here to Hawai'i it's free shipping but i know you get what you pay for so..there's the risk that they're too short and the shackles will get inverted and won't last.. OME From what i've read, these are the best leaf's but only come up to 2.5" lift. i know you can use longer shackles but i'm afraid to match the existing lift up front, i would need 4" longer shackles..that's 7.5" shackle!! do they even make those? also, i would need to think about pinion angle and possibly needing a longer drive shaft. 63" chevy springs. this would be a dream but with the lack of welding skills, this might have to wait. My truck is an 89 Pickup ExCab 22re w/camper shell and is my DD. Im in no means a serious wheeler but i do occasionally go on some gnarly (childs play compared to some pictures of dudes on rocks on this website) lava roads to go camp and fish. I just want something that is duro enough as i plan to have this truck for a long time. |
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