fishmonger

just a mild engine bay wash after I was done backflushing the cooling system (truck ran fine doing that). I used a little simple green and the garden hose, nothing pressure washed.

Right after that, once I was done flushing out the coolant cleaner crap and had started filling up the cooling system, I wanted to start the engine to get the air out of the coolant. Well, it fires up, it goes to about 1500rpm, battery gauge shows that the alternator appears to be working, oil pressure goes up a little, fuel is in there, everything is dried out by now, and it still dies, kinda as if it has no gas. However, if I turn back the key, and crank again, it tries to start again, fires, 3-5 sec later it's dead again. It ran fine before the cooling system flush. Checked oil - not milky, coolant clear, air burped out by now by sheer starter action.

When it stops, the check engine light and a number of other dash lights come on. Battery is virtually new, recharged overnight. Belts are not slipping (they were at first when wet).

If I don't completely turn the ignition key back and try to start from the first click position again, it will not fire. Going all the way back left and then turning the key works every time, but again, only for seconds.

any idea what to check? Plugs are all tight, everything appears bone dry in there today, and there's plenty of gas in the tank. Fuel filter was replaced 10k
miles ago and the truck was running really well lately. Fresh air filter (dry) a week ago.

Does the ECU "reboot" when you disconnect the battery? Have not done that yet.

abecedarian

Before you try to pull the battery and clear the ecu, pull the trouble codes, if any.

It sounds like the connector may be wet at the AFM. When you turn the key on, the system runs the fuel pump for a few seconds to charge the fuel lines. When it starts, the AFM is supposed to turn the fuel pump on so that the fuel continues to flow. You most likely are running on the bit of fuel that gets pre-charged in the system when you turn the key on. You have to turn the key completely off in order to reset the fuel pump relay and re-energize it.

Dasuprawolf

x2 on the connector being wet.

fishmonger

tried to get the code - only have a multimeter and it reads a constant 12V on the TE1 and E1 poles. No voltage fluctuation, so I don't even see the default blink value.

removed battery pole, reconnected. Same problem, same measurement at the troublecode poles

abecedarian

short the te1 and e1 terminals with a short wire or paperclip then go turn the key on but don't start it and count the blinks.
and after that, with the key off, unplug the afm connector and spray some wd40 on both sides and reconnect.

fishmonger

I assume the AFM connector is the one on top of the air filter box?

abecedarian

yeppers

fishmonger

I get a 14 code when doing it properly

• Open or short in IGF or IGT circuit from igniter to ECM
• Igniter
• ECM

abecedarian

okay, you may have water in one of the connectors from the ignitor, likely the one that goes over the engine towards the intake manifold.

fishmonger

it's not the one on top of the air filter - soaked that one in WD40, same thing.

damn mosquitoes are killing me down there - I'll try the other connectors tomorrow. It's not like they make them easy to pull off while you're fighting off the little vampires

thanks for all the help - I'll post what I find out tomorrow when I can work down there without a "come bite me here" light over my hood.

fishmonger

got it to run today - wiggled a few more connectors I could get my hands on, opened a few but all were dry inside. Still, after about 5 more connectors, I tried to start and the engine fired. Ran it nice and hot, so it'll dry out in there completely.

thanks for the help - the truck is back on the road. Heading to California for a big hiking trip in 3 days

abecedarian

Congrats.
File it away under "future reference": after washing the engine, dry and or wiggle the connectors, or don't get the connectors wet. Just because they look dry doesn't mean they were, but disconnecting and reconnecting or wiggling them probably displaced some moisture and made a good contact. Even though water is alleged to be a conductor of electricity it can be an insulator as well.

When you get here...
WELCOME TO CALIFORNIA!!!!
please don't stay too long.

Matt16

x4.

I was driving down a really bumpy trail yesterday and my engine died. I thought maybe I stalled it or something, so I started it back up and started rolling, when it dies again. Having messed around with the AFM on my 22RE before, I knew it would start up fine, then die when the AFM was unplugged. I was able to lift the hood, plug the wire back in and have the engine running in seconds flat.

My friends were impressed.

anotherjeff

Some folks (and OEM) use silicone grease on exposed connectors.

"Silicone-based lubricants are often used by consumers in applications where other common consumer lubricants, such as Vaseline, would damage certain products, such as latex rubber condoms and gaskets on drysuits."

abecedarian

the problems with most any sort of grease has to do with insulation.
silicone grease, and most other grease for that matter (short of graphite or lithium), is an insulator. silicone grease is recommended on the spark plug boots but not on the conductor: it prevents water intrusion but also is an insulator.

anyone wonder why wd40 is called that? wd means 'water displacement'- it was the 40th try that worked... anyways. lol

Brenjen

WD-40 for the win any time you get your engine wet & it causes problems; it's never let me down yet.

And for the record, when silicone grease gets hot, or just over time; it can leach into places it's not supposed to be. We used to use it in our cable splicing connections but it cause more problems than it solved in the long term.