some people 'adjust' them to lean or richen the air/fuel mixture, hopefully not more than a couple clicks. that sucker is a whopping $300 too, don't mess with it too much! I almost ruined my first one trying to clean it but managed to save it. clean (carefully) the plastic nubbin that is inside of the air chamber and test the resistance according to the FSM, should be between 200-600 ohms between terminals E2 and VS. (200 is better). (2nd and 3rd terminals in from the right hand side as you look at it)

I would take a peek under the cover and make sure it is absolutely clean and then seal it with some sensor-safe sealant.

My old one was way out of spec, 800 ohms I think, got it back down to 260 ohms by cleaning the plastic piece inside with some CRC electronic parts cleaner, kinda like a MAF sensor. I think it was just dirt that was in there that made the difference, otherwise it's the contact plate under the cover and whatnot. Also make sure the gasket is still good or better still get a new one/ make a new one so you get a good seal. they're pretty resiliant though...


sorry, that sucks that drivewire won't ship to you, wierd.

 

Amazon has kuzeh thermostats on there, there search function for the saved vehicle section sucks but it looks like they stock a ton of 'em on there....

I have Jardine exhaust on my truck and it's not too loud even w/ headers... magnaflow is a good price and not that loud either (that's a pretty subjective topic though). Borla has a huge price tag on all their stuff, Flowmaster sucks IMO (still better than stock though)

 

Heh, Amazon won't ship the Kuzeh to me either. What up with that...

Oh well, I'm just glad that I found a good rad for half the price of what the local shop quoted me.

I will take a peek inside the plastic VAFM cover tomorrow, but I bet it's in pretty decent shape. I know the previous owner had a authentic Toyota Tech (straight from Japan!) muck about with this truck... so if it was fiddled with, they must have had good reason.

Thanks for the hints about exhausts. I will look for those first two brands you mentioned. My truck came with a flowmaster on it, but can't say I really care for it.

Cheers.

 

really?? wow, that's retarded that it's that difficult to get stuff from the online companies.

those VAFM only last so long, most of them seem to die after a while, mine did as well as my sister-in-laws runner. they are somewhat 'serviceable' though, just keep that plastic nub thing clean where it measures the airflow and it should last forever.

I've never been a big exhaust guy, I could care less what tailpipe tip I had or what it sounds like so I just look for performance and quality. Magnaflow has decent stuff and I'm completely happy with Jardine, those are really the only two I have personal experience with. Check out the muffler poll thread on here and you can see what guys are running, it's mostly preference/choice of brand over anything else really.

beers up! it's Halloween...

 

I will try to make some time later this week to take a peek into my VAFM. I'm also going to block off the EGR I think. I think I object to the concept on a moral level. Exhaust, going BACK to the engine?!

Payday friday... I'll either be ordering a radiator that day, or hopefully have found a nice one from a shop locally. I also need to check the dealer for a thermostat.

Thanks for the advice, aa1911!

 

Ordered the new rad yesterday. CSF 2056... all metal, 3 copper rows with a brass tank. A beast of a rad.

Oh, it has a tranny oil cooling circuit... but I have a manual. Is there any way I can use this for engine oil? Do I want to?

 

Your V6 already has an oil cooler on the driver side of the engine. I wouldn't use it.

 

Thanks Cyberman. With everything I had heard about overheating, I was curious. Okay, I will leave off on using it.

 

New radiator went in without any fuss. Fan shroud DID come off the rad before I took it out of the engine bay. There were 4 bolts holding it to the rad... nothing fancy, just a couple that were tricky to get to.

Flushing the system: PITA. Soooo much time involved.

Good news: previous owner kept up on maintenance... shiny new t-stat with the fancy jiggle valve was sitting pretty where it should be.

Thanks for the help/info guys.

 

You mentioned in you post that you downloaded a manual on how to replace the radiator. Do you remember where you found that.

 

Factory service manual. http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...5/contents.htm

 

Did you have to take off the front grille? All the manuals say to do this but it looks like an unnecessary step.

 

Front grill? No, shouldn't need to. I drained coolant, took off both fan shrouds, unbolted the rad, replaced. Just get at it, I think it's 4 bolts for the fan shroud, 4 for the rad. The actual swap is easy, it's bleeding the system that's annoying. Don't forget to flush it either before you top it up with new coolant.