mark53

My 93 pickup 22RE turns over but will not start. I get spark from all plugs. I've checked fule pressure by feeling pressure in the fule hose and seems OK. So far I've replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, fuel pump and fuel filter. No joy. I checked the timing chain by positioning the No.1 cyclinder at TDC and the rotor points to the number 1 plug so I ruled out a sliped timing chain.
I checked the resistance with a Ohm meter on the circuit opening relay, AFM, cold start time switch. All check OK.

I also tested the fuel pump using the jumper on the diagnostics connector and no luck.

I put a timimg light on No. 1 plug wire and pointed it at the timing mark on the flywheel. The timing mark is not even even visable when the flash goes off. THis is all leading me to believe the ECU is bad but want to make sure before spending the big bucks. One thing I noticed is when the ignition switch is on, the fuel pump does not turn on. Is this normal with the 93 pickup? Is there anything else I can check before replacing the ECU?

TIA

kyle_22r

if your distributor rotor is pointing at your #1 plug when the #1 cylinder is at TDC you probably have a problem. with the engine at the proper initial degree of advance(i think 5*) the rotor should roughly be at a 11:00 position.

rugerm44

Dose it have any spark at the plug?If not check the igniter.If it gose bad it wont start.

mark53

Thanks for the reply, but according to Haynes manual...

the "distributor rotor should be pointing directly at the mark you made on the distributor body." The mark was made directly below the No.1 spark plug terminal on the distributor body.

This is a 4cylinder engine procedure.

I also tried to spray starter fluid into the intake manifold but still would not start.

Can someone tell me if the fuel pump can be heard when the ignition is turned on?

mark53

Yes, it has spark from all plugs.

Thanks

PirateFins

put a jumper in the diagnostics connector between E1 and TE1, turn the key to on and see if the check engine light flashes. If not I would say the ECU is bad. That is the same place you put the jumper to check the timming (it removes the ecu advance from the circuit).

Did you do any work at all to the truck before this problem started. Or did you just walk out and no start?

Here is the link to the 93 FSM where you can get some trouble shooting info from.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...fsm/index.html

mark53

The check engine light does flash when E1 and TE1 jumpered. Unfortunatley no codes because I pulled the fuse on the EFI relay to check before getting any codes and cleared memory.

Did not do anything before it stopped. Just go it, cranked it over but no start.

I tried the troubleshooting guide in the FSM but no solution yet. Need to check for a stuck EGR but havn't found the procedure.

PirateFins

Ok had a thought and an answer for you.

Answer- No the fuel pump does not turn on with the ing. The fuel pump turns on when you crank the motor and the VFM vain moves with the incomming air, sending the signal to the fuel pump to turn on.

Thoughts-
Is it a manual or auto tranny? If auto check the "neutral saftey switch". If manual try using the "clutch start cancel" switch.

Also try and start the truck with your foot all the way to the floor on the gas pedal. I had a VW that the Cold start injector was bad and that is how I started it until I replaced it.

Are you positive you are getting fuel pressure all the way to the fuel rail? Use the FSM to check for fuel pressure. I believe you check at the cold start injector.

Where are you located? Anyone close that has a 22re that you could swap ECU's with to see if that is it?

mark53

Thanks for the thoughts.

It's a manual tranny. I tried with foot to the floor on fuel, no go. I tested for fuel pressure by jumpering Fp and +B of the check connector. I can hear the fuel pump turn on. Also I can feel an increase in pressure in the pressure regulator fuel return hose.

I live in Tacoma Wash. anyone with a spare ECU around here?

I suspect the ECU because useing a timing light when the engine is cranked, I don't see the timming mark illuminated anywhere near the reference marks. I beleive the timing of the spark is controled by the ECU. A failed senson would maybe cause the mark to advance or retard but not be totaly absent.

Thanks!

mark53

I'm at wits end now. Replaced the ECU ($250) and no change. Still cannot see the timing mark when engine cranks.

I don't think it's a fuel problem because I spray starter fluid in the intake and still doesn't start.

Is there a sure method to check for a slipped timming chain?

tc

On a 3VZE you have to jumper 2 pins in the test port to get an accurate timing mark - is this the same on 22RE?

The sure method of checking the timing chain is pulling the cover and looking at the marks...

PirateFins

Have you done a compresion test on all 4 cyl?
You said you are getting spark, but is it good spark? If you are spraying starting fluid in and still no go, than it is spark related.

Pull your valve cover off and rotate the main drive pulley to bring #1 TDC "0" on pulley mark, verify that the rocker arms on #1 are loose and #4 are tight (if not turn crankshaft pulley 180*). The rotor should be pointing just before the #1 spark plug position, the timming chain dot and bright link should be somewhere between 11:57 and 12:00 o'clock (mine points to about 11:58 not dead on 12).

PirateFins

Yes the 2 pins I outlined above are where you set base time.

PirateFins

any update??

phorunninduke

Unless your starter can turn the engine over at 800rpm (it can't) I do not beleive the timing marks would line up any way.

Why did you replaced so much stuff? was it to solve the no start problem? Has the truck been sitting? It is pretty rare for a truck to not start all of a sudden, usually there are some clues. I have killed a battery before with a no start problem, lots of cranking and cranking. Took me way to long to figure it out.

trx125

Just a Thought, look inside distributor housing do you see copper wire strands? even it not check the resist of the pick up coil(Dealer calls it a Signal Generator). Mine went out, had spark(not good) but would not crank I checked coil igniter ecu etc etc and it was the pick up coil. It is a stealer item, and most of them say they dont list it and want you to buy the whole distributor housing to fix it. I found one @ Limbaugh Toyota in Birmingham, Al for about 90 shipped. That was the fix for me!

mark53

Thanks for the suggestions all. I'll remove the timing cover tonight and check the position of the timing mark at TDC. Also will look in distributor for wire strands and check signal generator.

The only reason I replaced all the stuff I did was to try and get it started. Into it about $500 so far. This is killing me!

mark53

I removed the rocker cover and positioned No. 1 cylinder at TDC. Timing mark on sprocket is at about 11:57 when timing mark on crank pully is at 0. Rotor is slightly before No. 1 spark plug wire. Is this normal? I have pic of sprocket when at TDC if needed. I see no sign of wire strands in the distributor either. What next?

pyagid

That is pretty normal, it is usually just before (slight advance) or even with #1. I have been following this thread because i am pretty much having all the same symptoms. And cant replicate it, which makes it very tough to track down.

Even when i do have time to diagnose it, i will test a few things, the appear to check out fine, go inside read some more information and when i come out it starts fine with no issues.

4Hummer

Have you checked your main opening relay ?

Main went on me and I had to stick a plastic army toy in it.

Heres a pic.

http://www.mudrunner.ca/ardbeg_2005/...001571_jpg.jpg