toyturtle

Edit- see my second post for more updated info:

Ok- I've got a 92 Toy PU, dlx, 4x4 22re engine. She's cranking but won't start.

When I turn the key on I'm not hearing anything from the fuel pump- true if I jumper the Fp & +B on the diagnostics jumpers as well. (Though honestly I've never listened for the pump before so... )

I've got the protective shield removed from the fuel tank already.

So a couple questions:
1) where is a good/easy place to unhook a fuel line and see if I'm getting any flow? (I unhooked the line at the charcoal cannister because it was easy access- no fuel even when cranking but not sure if there would be or if that's only post ignition?)

2) any other things I need to do to confirm it's the fuel pump before I make the journey to buy a new one?

A couple possibly related notes: probably 6 weeks ago I was driving and got a brief stutter like all fuel had cut out. Only an instant though and never repeated so forgot about it. Twice in the past month the truch has turned over but refused to start. First time I had left my headlights on for 15 mins- I have a strong battery and it was cranking good so I didn't think it was the battery BUT it started when I got a jump. 2nd time I checked and wiggled the battery connection- seemed good but it started afterwards. Checking things this time it seems I may have had a weak ground for sometime...

I'm currently stranded at a cabin 2 miles up a combination of old logging roads and jeep trails so getting towed out is virtually out of the question. I *could* get another 4x4 to tow me out to a spot where a tow truck could get me but without the engine running for brakes and steering I'd prefer not to- some pretty serious downgrades on the way out...

So...any help appreciated. I'm not a super mechanic in the sence of knowing all the systems and the logical procedure to follow based on how they work and know little about the fuel line setup (and I left my **** manual at home when I finally cleaned out my truck this weekend). But once I have some basic knowledge I can usually fix most anything...

scope103

There is no fuel flow at the charcoal canister; thats to pull vapor out of the tank.

I can hear my fuel pump when jumpered, standing at the diagnostic connector. It has to be garage-quiet, but it sounds like your test shows its not running.

The easiest place to check for fuel flow is at the cold start injector. You should replace the crush washers once you open it, but for getting home you should be okay to just tighten it back up.

There is still the possibility that you don't have power at the B+ connector (open EFI fuse, open IGN fuse, dead EFI relay, bad wiring ...) so you should check that with a voltmeter. It is also possible you have bad wiring from FP to the fuel pump. Since you can get to the pump connections, you can use the meter to check for 12v there. Before you run off to buy a fuel pump, DO remove the old one and check it by direct connection to 12v.

toyturtle

Thanks.

Just pulled the EFI relay before I saw this and it's burned.The pin numbered 5- or maybe I should say the plastic around it is burnt.

Just realized too- when I jumpered for error codes I got none- but I didn't get the blink-blink telling me all was good either...

scope103

Check to make sure the EFI fuse is 15A (and not blown). If you have a short somewhere and the relay burned up because the fuse was too big, you'll just waste the replacement relay (at best).

toyturtle

Yep. The EFI fuse looks good and was 15 amp. Just swapped it out for a new 15 amp one though.

Anyone know what, if anything, the #5 prong on the EFI relay being burned tells me?

scope103

#5 connects to the 40amp fuse (always at 12v). Obviously, it got too hot. Most likely, a high resistance connection somewhere nearby. Like it didn't fit tightly into the socket, and everytime it jiggled the resistance shot up, creating more heat. OR, you have a short down stream, pulling up to 40amps, and the #5 connector was just the weakest link.

If the burn is on the relay and not on the socket, you may have just worn out the contacts inside, which raised the resistance, which got them hot enough to burn up. Replacing the relay will fix that.

toyturtle

so an update- New EFI relay and it fired right up (well, second time- think the fuel had to prime)

Still don't know the root cause for sure, but knock on wood I can at least make it home/to my mechanic.

Not sure if a bad ground might have been able to cause this...but...when I was first checking/cleaning/tightening the battery cables the ground one (generic style with the big clamp for the post and then a clamp with two bolts that squeeze the wires) the clamp part broke off. And I'm guessing I've had a bad ground for quite some time- when I redid it properly my stereo- which had mysteriously died longer ago then I care to admit, suddenly came back to life. And a couple other problems over over that time that may have been the result of an intermittently weak ground...