89 Yoter 3.0 4x4 WONT GO IN TO GEAR
 

I just installed a new Clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, and clutch kit and bled the system every way possible and it REFUSES to go in to gear. I am lost at this point.Some body help me before I strike a match to this sumbitch

Did you bleed the master cylinder....?

Will it go into gear with the motor off?

My money is on your clutch disk is in backwards.

yes it goes in gear when it is not running and installed the clutch flywheel side to the flywheel

Does the clutch fork move about an inch or so when the pedal is depressed?

Yes, bout a inch is it

I'd say that is bad news on the amount of work to fix your problem. I cannot think of anything outside of the bellhousing that could be the cause, hence you need to drop the transmission again.

Its stories like yours that keep me postponing swapping in my new clutch. Mine chatters quite a bit (really sucks offroading, actually) but at least it gets me from A to Z.

I have a 86 yoter also. Done a clutch job on it and it works perfectly, drive it everyday.

Ok let me start all over, on the 89 the throw out bearing started squeeling so I parked it until I had time to put a new clutch kit in it. It shifted perfect other than the throw out bearing squeeling. 6 months later, which was 4 days ago, I get in it to move it and it wouldn't go in gear for nothing and still throw out bearing squeeled so I went ahead and installed a new clutch kit. Install went perfect and throw out bearing is quiet. Ok I bled every thing probably 10 times and still wont go in to gear. I am lost at this point

That's the only thing I can think of but if I cant find nothing wrong and cant fix it, im gonna paint a bullseye on ithttps://www.yotatech.com/forums/images/icons/icon8.gif

Good call in starting at the beginning. That is a completely different can off worms.

How do you know it was the throwout bearing squealing and not the pilot bearing or input shaft? I suppose it does not matter, since it is quiet now, but I am curious.

You said it does go into gear with the engine off, right? If you do that, then start the engine does it try to move forward or does it seem like the clutch is released (open)? I do not know much about the transmission internals, but it sounds like the synchros are not meshing for some reason. It could be a simple as the shift fork being messed up, but then I would expect it not to shift with the engine off.

The old throw out bearing was shot,yeah I mean the bearings were fixin to fall out, and it does go into gear with the engine off. Ok with the engine running, it moves forward when you try to put it in gear with the clutch pushed in but I will take the shifter off and recheck it and see what that does.

In a way, I think that is good news. Makes it sound like something is wrong with the clutch, and not the tranny internals.

I assume that if you start with the engine off, put the tranny in first gear, push in the clutch and try to start it, that the truck will move forward? If so, your problem is in the clutch somewhere.

The interesting question, however, is why the problem was there before you changed out the clutch. Hopefully one of our more knowledgeable gurus will chime in on that one.

Look under the dash and confirm your pedle free play is in spec. Also while under there. Carefully inspect your clutch pedle bracket. They break on second and third gen trucks and 4 runners very often now their 20 years old. If it is broken the flex will cause symptoms of a not bled clutch or a mis-adjusted clutch

Sounds like clutch isn't fully releasing. Since you bled it thoroughly, perhaps pedal play is out of spec and not getting proper hydraulic function, or either the clutch or flywheel are of incorrect thickness and can't release fully.

I appreciate all the info guys. I will check the pedal bracket this weekend and blow out the clutch line and try bleeding it again. If that don't do anything I guess ill drop the tranny and start all over, but ill let yall know how it goes. Does anyone know if there is a spec for pedal adjustment

If you search on YT you will find the FSM (factory service manual) for our trucks. Even if you do not find the exact year, you will get close.

I would recheck you slave install. Then the clutch pedal adjustment. If you got to this point you have skills. Bleeding the master and slave is almost easy. No air, no leaks, right?

Turn the truck off, put in gear. If it pulls forward the clutch is not disengaging. I went round and round adjusting the pedal/clutch play after installing a new clutch/PP until I realized the bracket/plate the clutch rod goes through was cracked. I could push the pedal all the way in but it still wasn't completely releasing the clutch. had to pull and weld the crack. works now!