88 Toyota pickup when trying to start the starter relay clicks
 

Ok i have a 88 Toyota 2wd 22r 5 speed when i goto start up i hear a click coming from the starter relay on the fender well has anyone had this problem.
Things I've done
2 new starters
Got a extra starter relay
New positive cable
New negative cable

I've seen recent posts with ignition switch. problem can anyone help its starting to get worse i was at school today the engine was cold and the starter relay clicked so i jump it off and it starts up every time the relay clicks plz help

Voltage Drop in Start Solenoid Control Circuit OR Bad Solenoid contacts?
 

Slow down, and stop throwing $$$ unnecessarily to that problem. Yes, could be related to ignition switch (I thought that so I bought new ignition switch) BUT it does not mean that the ignition switch needs to be replaced (that's why my problem is fixed BUT I still have my unused new ignition switch sitting on shelf :).

To clarify, you mean this relay is clicking, right?
https://www.yotatech.com/members/rad...iper-motor.jpg

Is solenoid (piggybacked on starter motor) clicking or not?

If relay is clicking but solenoid is not, verify that solenoid is working.
Unplug this connector from starter solenoid:
https://www.yotatech.com/members/rad...rter-relay.jpg

BE SAFE!
Use a jumper wire to connect male spade terminal in connector on solenoid directly to battery positive. Solenoid should make thunking sound (heavier click) and starter should turn over.

If starter relay clicks BUT solenoid does not energize in normal mode, BUT solenoid energizes and starter turns over when solenoid is directly connected to battery

Probability is great that there is too much resistance from battery, through ignition switch ST1 contacts, and starter relay to your starter solenoid(piggybacked on. There would be too much voltage drop, that your starter solenoid does not get the current it needs (12Amps) to energize. Unfortunately Toyota wired this circuit poorly, as explained here. The high current to energize solenoid has to pass through the possibly pitted (from
24 years of starting) ST1 contacts and the long wires from battery to ignition switch to starter relay.

Solutions to that would be:
1) Hot Shot (please search that), OR
2) Leaner, cleaner method I used: By moving terminal 4 of start relay to a fused (downstream) terminal of 40A fuse, same spot where ST1 contact of IGN switch is connected. This way the high-current (approx 12Amps) needed to energize the starter solenoid now has more direct path:
From battery (fused) to starter relay contact 4, through the starter relay contacts, to starter solenoid. That's only about 4 feet of wire. Compare to current circuit where power goes from battery, to cabin to ignition switch, thru ST1 contact, back to engine comp to starter relay, thru relay contacts and finally to solenoid.

If starter relay clicks, AND solenoid clicks but starter does not turn over:
Chances are solenoid contacts bad. See 4crawler's website for fix. BTW, here's a similar fix for solenoid contacts: http://youtu.be/wgGWQ02GtEk

Good advise here ^^^

I have also had a...

Low battery
Bad ignition swithch
worn keys not making good contact with the ignition switch
bad grounds

...give me a starter relay "click". The starting system on this generation of Toyota is plain stupid. A person does nothing but chase problems. So only true way to fix it once and for all, replace everything. I have added it to my list of "to-do's" at the 100K timing chain/HG change out.

Positive cable to the starter
New Ground Cable to fender and block
Starter contacts
Starter plunger
Starter relay (can be ohmed to see if it's in spec, they are pricey)
Ignition switch

All this can be had (OEM) for less than $200 if your starter relay is good (they're usually good). Pricey, yes. Is it fixed, never a doubt.

Yes with the first picture of the starter relay clicks nothing else does just the relay

I don't mean to hijack this thread but I am having a similar problem and thought it might be better to join this conversation rather than starting a new thread.

What mine is doing now is a turn the key, I get the lights on the dash and a click. If I keep turning the key back and forth a few times it will eventually catch and start like normal. Sometimes it just takes one or two back and forth tries, sometimes seven or eight. Battery and terminals are good. My plan is start with the starter contacts as referenced in the post above with the video (thanks for that BTW...that is going to be very helpful).
From past vehicle experiences I at first thought I needed a new starter, but it seems Toyota's might be more of an electrical issue. If anyone else has any thoughts let me know, otherwise I will start with the contacts this weekend (hopefully I will continue to get it to start until then as it is my daily driver) and I will report back.
Also...I have 90 3ZVE...I am assuming the starter motor is behind the passenger side wheel well splash guard? Any tips/tricks for removal?
Thanks!

You will have to go through the entire system to fix it. However, replacing the starter contacts will not hurt anything.

Check battery, make sure your getting 12v at the starter
Starter contacts and a new plunger
Ignition switch
COR
Grounds
Positive cable from the battery to the starter is good.

If starting circuit wired similar to 86-88 4Runners, Definitely needs Correction
 

If your starting circuit is wired similar to 86-88's Runners, it is an electrical issue. That definitely needs to be corrected as discussed on this thread.

Regards,
RAD

I am having the same problem. Please post up what you did and what corrected the issue. My engine has 203000 miles on it so I am sure there are some issues with several items. I have a 2000 4 runner with the 3.4 v6 engine. The yota in my avatar is not the vehicle I am referencing.

I guess I have been just plain lucky I have never had any of these cranking problems.

Although the first thing I do when I get another member to the fleet.

Brand new battery the highest CCA available in the case then up grade both positive and negative cables to a bigger size . After all these most likely are 20 plus years old.

Most times I also do the wire off the B terminal of the alternator

Quick update...
So I wrestled with getting the starter out for several hours this last weekend. I can confirm PITA. I love the "access panel"! Anyway, the combination of 20+ year old (I assume it has never been changed) rusted bolts and no real good wrench/swing angle to get at them had me stuck. I could not get enough leverage on the top bolt to break it free. I am not a quitter, but I also have come to realize from experience when stop before I break something else. So I threw in the towel and figured I would need to go to the garage. While I was there though I checked the wiring and cleaned the contact on the power cable, and then cleaned and tighten the connectors for the battery. Put it all back together and now the starter is working fine again. I figure that may be temporary, but I have started it about 10 ten times now over the last few days with no issues.
So if you are having this problem and have not started on it yet, my suggestion would be to start with cleaning all the contacts, or running a new wire from the + lead to the starter as mentioned previously in the thread.

dont waste ur money and just put in a push star button and override all that junk. i went througb the same B.S. and change everything. nothing worked. so i did what my yota guys here recommend...push button start...

X2 on the above..

Ok yall i think i found my problem i used a ohm meter it showed a lil drop in voltage from my power wire to accessory. How to check is easy you touch the negative with one prong and touch positve on battery see how many volts then touch accessory wire to see if voltage drop if sopeel back the cover on it and my was fried and corroded going to the fuse block next to the battery take your battery out unbolt the fuse box and the wire goes to the main fusible link. Unscrew the fusible link 80 amp dont do what i did and broke it tryimg to pull it out its screwed to the fuse holder then break off the brass part of the accessory wire and get a new 8 gauge or lower wire and two connectors and screw it to the main fusible link that has solved my problem i havent had a problem since i didnt want to put a push button because that doesnt solve the problem and thats kinda ghetto haha

Such a good video up there, im sure this is whats wrong with mine. Stopped me from buying a new starter.

Not OPs original problem but have seen other comments that this video could help. Similar as the video above, just a different view point.

^^^ Solves alot of problems on top of what has been mentioned in videos.

Yep, we need to replace parts IF, and only IF, they are indeed defective. We can spend hundreds of dollars replacing parts, but if we do not fix this flaw on the 86-88 wiring, the starting system will still be flawed, and we would still be running 12 Amperes through our ignition switches. Flaw can be fixed with no additional parts by simply moving a wire here.

Would appreciate if pickup and 2gen Runner owners could verify if they have this flaw in order to help others.

I've looked for replacement starter contacts for an '88 and all I can find them for is '89 to '95. Anyone have a part number?

Tried 4crawler's site? he might have it listed.

Haven't had this problem w/mine... yet