skitour

Ok so my 4runner still isn't idling, so i replaced all the fuel lines, new filters, new plug wires, new vacuum lines, new plugs, the distributors good, battery is new as well. SO what happens is it will start up just fine if the idle set screw is completely tightened, which i am assuming is slowing down the idle. now it will idle but it is very rough and only at around 150rpm. If you try to give it gas or adjust the idle screw it stalls out.

Now a check engine code of 11 flashes. Which means that it could be either the computer, or tps (throttle positioning system) Now my truck has the 2.4L 22RE 4 cylinder EFI. It might be helpful to know that there were mouse living in it before i got it and it was sitting for two years outside. But the head was rebuilt 6 months before it was put off the road. It was put off of the road because the drive shaft broke and dented the gas tank. So a mouse may have chewed a wire.

I am curious as how to check the tps or computer without buying new right now.

n4ynu1010

TPS check walkthrough :
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

FSM Online :
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

Your idle screw shouldn't be turned all the way in for sure , I had the o-ring on my idle screw go bad and create a rather bad vacumn leak there also , had to replace with generic o-ring out of o-ring variety pak (plumbing).
I would venture to say if you have to turn the adj screw all the way in that there is still a vacumn leak or serious restriction/blockage somewhere , maybe you need to clean the throttle body ???
Other than that the test for the TPS is in the first link and also in the FSM (second link) , the FSM will also have test proceedures for your ECM but I wouldn't think that is your problem , check controls first (EGR , TPS , AFM/VAFM , Ignition/Timing , Fuel Delivery/Pressures)
If it were me I would be looking at EGR if stalling at idle (EGR open at idle can tend to stall a motor) , TPS will cause definate Idle problems but not sure about stalling (check it and replace if bad) and Throttle Body if dirty and ports stopped up/restricted can cause EGR / Idle / Controls problems or stop them from working altogether .
Hope this helps a little , could be alot of things , but use FSM and other link to check your TPS and other controls and make sure Throttle Body is clean .
If it sat for such a long time it may have some parts that are frozen/sticky , and just a note - sitting a long time and spiders go together , open up your intake tubing and inspect to see if the little boogers got in and built webs , spider web can stop airflow in a heart beat , if you replaced the vacumn lines make sure you dont have manifold vacumn on EGR by mistake so that it is not opening on idle and even if you have new lines and throttle body is dirty and or ports clogged then new lines won't help at all , start with the easy and keep ruling them out , I am curious to see what you find .

skitour

So i checked the fuel pressure its all good then decided to take off the throttle body and discovered about a 1/4 inch build up of gunk in my intake and on the throttle body. So the throttle body is now clean discovered that the one port coming off the egr vacuum modulator was clogged. now i am going to remove the intake cause i am assuming other ports may be clogged as well. Wish me luck stupid work getting in the way.

n4ynu1010

No reason to take off the upper intake really unless you really feel like cleaning that ............you could get your intake clean with some "Seafoam" thru one of your vacumn hoses easier and cheaper than that , the only important vacumn lines are right there on the throttle body .
Check all your vacumn lines if you didn't (blow them out is what most do) and put it back together and use the seafoam to clean your intake , do you use a K&N oiled filter ? , it can drastically increase that problem but don't want to open that can of worms here and hi-jack thread .
Like them fancy colors lol

n4ynu1010

The EGR line stoppage ......was it junk or had someone plugged it in a attempt to stop the EGR from working ???
If it was plugged then just put a BB in the line going from that Modulator to the actual EGR valve and stop it that way if you do not want it opening.

longhungsilver

I second the fact that your idle adjust is not supposed to be screwed all the way down! Back it off a bit and start the truck up and then adjust it..

dcg9381

And that gunk is pretty common even on well running trucks with high mileage.. .:-)

skitour

so yeah i know that the intake build up is common, as for the vacuum line it wasn't purposely plugged it was from build up. the idle set screw i know shouldn't be inserted all that much but thats the only way it will idle at all it is just stalling it out other wise but i should be ready to try and start it again tomorrow checked the tps all seems working right wish me luck

skitour

ok so i wasn't to sure about the test i did on the TPS as i was somewhat rushed so i redid the test 4 times now. And here is what i have found.

The VTA - E2 is at 1.17K
The VCC - E2 is 7.71K
The IDL - E2 at 0.57mm doesn't register any value
The IDL - E2 at 0.80mm doesn't register any value
The VTA - E2 at WOT is 5.24K

does this mean i need a new TPS i am assuming so and this could be causing the problem by not registering when to switch between IDL and normal operation correct. any help would be greatly appreciated

n4ynu1010

Did you use the walkthrough ?
Here it is again :

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

Compare your numbers with the recommended specs and if it doesnt match then bad TPS or Re-Adj , usually bad .

n4ynu1010

[quote=n4ynu1010;50640131]Did you use the walkthrough ?
Here it is again :

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

Compare your numbers with the recommended specs and if it doesnt match then bad TPS or Re-Adj , usually bad

Repost , HTML Paste didn't work

n4ynu1010

VTA-E2 is supposed to be between 200-800 ohms so your off there
IDL-E2 reading open with throttle cracked open ( I mean hair trigger cracked open ) is right BUT when you let throttle rest at idle (ie-throttle plate closed/seated) then IDL-E2 should read a few ohms , it should be closed circuit at Idle and Open circuit when you just crack the throttle plate open -this closed circuit on this connection at idle is what tells the ECM that you are supposed to be running on Idle Circuit Mixture.

The other important part is that when you measure VTA-E2 with Throttle plate at idle position you should slowly open throttle and watch resistance reading on your meter as resistance should increase slowly (open throttle slowly) without any open/infinite spots in the range to full throttle -this resistance range is what controls your VAFM opening for your air mix , if the range of resistance has open/bad spots in it then it needs to be replaced as well .

skitour

Ok so it runs yeah guess what it was. The hinged piece that regulate the air on the mass airflow sensor was jammed shut once i freed it up it ran like a champ thanks for the help

n4ynu1010

HEHE , thats cool