86 Toyota; No blinkers, gauges, and battery dies
#1
86 Toyota; No blinkers, gauges, and battery dies
I have a 86 Toyota pickup, I changed my coolant in the truck after flushing it from the bottom, which when I did so, the old coolant bounced off the metal guard and went everywhere underneath, which was my mistake.
Right after, my temp gauge, fuel gauge and blinkers do not work, my battery light is on, and my battery will begin to die after a few days. I have checked all of my fuses but at this point am not really sure. Any advice would be great
Right after, my temp gauge, fuel gauge and blinkers do not work, my battery light is on, and my battery will begin to die after a few days. I have checked all of my fuses but at this point am not really sure. Any advice would be great
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
I have a 86 Toyota pickup, I changed my coolant in the truck after flushing it from the bottom, which when I did so, the old coolant bounced off the metal guard and went everywhere underneath, which was my mistake.
Right after, my temp gauge, fuel gauge and blinkers do not work, my battery light is on, and my battery will begin to die after a few days. I have checked all of my fuses but at this point am not really sure. Any advice would be great
Right after, my temp gauge, fuel gauge and blinkers do not work, my battery light is on, and my battery will begin to die after a few days. I have checked all of my fuses but at this point am not really sure. Any advice would be great
You said it bounced off a metal guard, which guard? What exactly did you soak, what did you dry out, be specific?
It could be as simple as wiping down the battery with some baking soda mixture to stop battery drain, or coke cola (phosphoric acid converts rust ect), but you likely soaked some other stuff.
A parasitic draw test will point you to likely culprits, test each fuse at the distribution block to isolate the systems effected.
Guages have a shared fuse and fuses can fail while still appearing fine, they do a partial blow and look normal (if a bit dirty sometimes), but do not allow sufficient current to flow. Replacing it might do but won't prevent future over current problems, you can need to do the voltage drop test across each side of the fuse. It could be the contacts of the fuse itself, again without testing it it can reoccurr and you'll chase your tail, subtext test it.
The temp gauge sensor is located in the middle of the engine on the intake side, not sure what the cluster sees if you short that to ground but it's been known to take out oil pressure guages. Fuel gauge wires I don't think even enter the engine bay. Blinkers are mostly under the dash but obviously have wires through the bay, specifically the left (us drivers) side, and the housings aren't that well insulated.
Battery light indicates low battery voltage if you had a brake and battery light showing something is "properly" wrong with the charge system. (Subtext, alternator is probably OK)
Check.the fusesblock for parasites and voltage drops and report back..
#3
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Most likely the Antifreeze and Alternator are not a good mix.
Charge light being on means low or high voltage in the charging system.
Might be poor connections open fuses .
The fact the turn signals don`t work sounds like very low voltage if they worked fine before the mishap
Time to break out or buy a Multi Meter get some real numbers
Charge light being on means low or high voltage in the charging system.
Might be poor connections open fuses .
The fact the turn signals don`t work sounds like very low voltage if they worked fine before the mishap
Time to break out or buy a Multi Meter get some real numbers
#4
Got a multi-meter? How did you check your fuse? You can't just look; those tiny electrons are too hard to see.
Gauges and alternator are supplied by engine fuse.
Also search my thread for "How Charging System Works".
Gauges and alternator are supplied by engine fuse.
Also search my thread for "How Charging System Works".
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