86 4wd pick up, 22r With a 32/36 weber: starting issues
I have a 1986 4wd pick up, 22r With a 32/36 weber, DUI, and a flowmaster, but other wise stock. About a week ago the truck shut down and wouldn't restart. If I let it cool down, it would start and run for about 10 minutes then shut down and not start again until it cooled. During the no start condition it had no spark, but spark returned eventually. Today, I replaced the ignition system with a DUI set-up and it ran awesome. I had the timing set at 8 degrees as per what I found on the DUI website for yotas. I drove it a few times today and it purred beautifully, better than it had since I bought it. Until a while ago it just shut down, and once again .... No start.
I haven't checked for spark or anything yet... I just parked it cause I'm pretty frustrated. I've searched other similar threads but from what I found most are v6's or re's with people finding solutions in ignitors or mafs. Anybody have suggestions on where to look next with my setup? Thanks in advance for any help. |
Do you have any check engine lights?
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No cel, no computer. Im assuming all that was gutted when the weber was put in.
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Bump...
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Check for spark again. If you have no spark it could be a problem with the power or grounding to the ignition.
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Got it last night.... Resistor from the stock ignition was still inline... I didn't see it during the DUI install... And it ran for a few hours with it in. Attention to detail....
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hey question hopefully you see this soon. Are you talking about the ballast resistor? If so where is that little guy.
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I'm referring to the resistor linked into the ignition hot wire comming from the harness that comes through the drivers side fender( at least in mine ) and has a square shaped resistor mounted on the inner fenderwell. The DUI distributor has a ballast resistor between the coil and the rotor, according to parts stores listing at least.
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isn't that just a noise filter and not a ballast resister? I could be wrong though. Just to make sure we are talking about the right thing, that has a 2pin connector on it and can be just unplugged from the circuit right?
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I'm not entirely sure to be honest, there is supposed to be a resistor inline with the power wire for ignition on the factory set-up, wether or not the boxy guy that I trashed was the resistor or a noise filter, I'm not sure. I know my truck is back in action... Are you having a similar issue xxxtreme22r?
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Not really, the Crane Fireball instructions say to remove the ballast resister. I see nothing in the wiring diagrams for us carb'd guys for the resister, just on the efi trucks before the injectors. I didn't remove that noise filter as the diagrams call it and it seems to be working fine. I am gonna have to check voltage at the coil just to see if it really has one or not. Noone seems to know.
From the Fireball instructions: Ballast resistance. Some vehicles (such as early Chrysler with 4 or 5 pin electronic ignition modules) use ballast resistance. This can be in the form of a ballast resistor or resistance wire between the ignition switch and Coil+ terminal. For proper operation of the HI-6S, ballast resistance must be bypassed. Locate the ballast resistor or resistance wire (refer to your vehicle service manual). Bypass it with heavy 14 or 16 AWG stranded wire. If this is not practical, you can add an ignition power relay using the hookup shown in Figure 9. If you are unsure whether or not your vehicle has ballast resistance, measure the voltage at the Coil+ terminal while the engine is idling. If the Coil+ voltage is less than 11 volts, your vehicle probably has ballast resistance that must be bypassed. |
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