4wd won't budge wheels locked
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4wd won't budge wheels locked
Hello all, I started subscribing to this forum because recently I came a pone a 1991 sr5 4wd5sp 4runner real cheap. Sort of a project car and I’m fixing it up. One ofthe things I noticed right away that was wrong was the front drive shaft was missing.( one reason it was so cheap). Anyhow before I bought it I test drove it and notice the 4 low range worked ( in rearwheel drive only of course) So I thought maybe the transfer case was still ok and maybe all it needed was a drive shaft. Well no such luck, I got a refurbished driveshaft and bolted it in and went for a test drive. In 2hi it seemed fine just as before, but when I put it in 4hi and let out the clutch it went about 1 foot then all 4 wheels locked up. And wouldn’t budge. Kind of scary at first b/c in that state you can’t even tow it anywhere. Was able to free it by putting it back in 2Hi and reversing. Each time I tried to engage the 4wd it locked up. Sometimes it wouldn’t even budge an inch . It was like having parking boots on all 4 wheels. Weired.
So any thoughts anyone ?
Thanks in advance.
So any thoughts anyone ?
Thanks in advance.
#2
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If you have indeed raised the wheels and found none of the wheels turns when in 4WD although unless there are lockers in both differentials one wheel on each axle will turn.
Could be something as simple as the transfer case shifter being in wrong causing it to lock up .
Then it could be a bearing has failed allowing a shaft to drop locking things up.
Maybe the driveshaft was removed during the attempt to trouble shoot the problem then just set aside
Could be something as simple as the transfer case shifter being in wrong causing it to lock up .
Then it could be a bearing has failed allowing a shaft to drop locking things up.
Maybe the driveshaft was removed during the attempt to trouble shoot the problem then just set aside
Last edited by wyoming9; 02-16-2014 at 01:43 AM.
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Since it doesn't lock up without the front drive shaft installed it sounds like something is locked up in the front diff. Maybe someone decided to do a welded front but didn't know where to stop!-
Seriously, follow Wyoming's advice, jack it up, and find out what turns and what doesn't. I assume it has manual hubs, right? Lock them in and see if either front wheel will turn when off the ground. Also, try turning the input shaft to the diff. Shouldn't take too long to narrow down where the problem is.
Seriously, follow Wyoming's advice, jack it up, and find out what turns and what doesn't. I assume it has manual hubs, right? Lock them in and see if either front wheel will turn when off the ground. Also, try turning the input shaft to the diff. Shouldn't take too long to narrow down where the problem is.
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x3 ive seen people regear the rear and not the front simply because they cant afford to buy both sets of gears at once. that would explain why they took the front shaft out.
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Jack up the front end and turn the wheels while the hubs are locked in. If it turns it is the transfer case. Some set ups are designed for mudding with a low ratio in the rear end and higher ratio up front. No problem if in mud. Will lock up on asphalt and break stuff, like the transfer case. Jack up the rear without the drive shaft attached to the front diff and shift into 4wd. If the front diff drive turns and doesn't kill the engine or sound like a bag full of crushed marbles, you have a two gear set up.
Last edited by Romans117; 02-18-2014 at 02:16 AM.
#12
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yeah, you can play with mismatched gear ratios on low traction stuff like mud...when you do it in high traction it's crunch time.
this method is utilized quite a bit in the RC Crawling world - the overdriven front end helps pull your rig up obstacles as well as help out for tighter turns. it's not really an issue with such lightweight rigs, but if you use this on high traction stuff like street, you can crunch parts if not careful, pretty much just like it effects a 1:1 rig.
Take the above advice, try to diagnose the individual differentials (front, tcase, rear) to see where the issue is. My guess is it's something to do with the front (either chewed up gears, mismatched gear ratio) and they disconnected the driveline so they could drive it and in case someone who didn't know put it into 4wd.
this method is utilized quite a bit in the RC Crawling world - the overdriven front end helps pull your rig up obstacles as well as help out for tighter turns. it's not really an issue with such lightweight rigs, but if you use this on high traction stuff like street, you can crunch parts if not careful, pretty much just like it effects a 1:1 rig.
Take the above advice, try to diagnose the individual differentials (front, tcase, rear) to see where the issue is. My guess is it's something to do with the front (either chewed up gears, mismatched gear ratio) and they disconnected the driveline so they could drive it and in case someone who didn't know put it into 4wd.
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stuck 4wd
I like highonpottery response best seems most logical to me. Anyway will let you all know soon, dropped it off to at a local 4wd shop today.
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locked 4wd
Well turns out its the transfer case. The Shop got it down and opened it up.
there's a chain inside that's all broke up. According to the mechanic looks to him like it was rebuilt already once before. Just not correctly.
Got another xfer case for it out of the junk yard. Hoping it's in better condition. will see.
there's a chain inside that's all broke up. According to the mechanic looks to him like it was rebuilt already once before. Just not correctly.
Got another xfer case for it out of the junk yard. Hoping it's in better condition. will see.
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I am glad you determined the problem was demonstrated through the t case. My question and the one you should have now is , why. Why did the t case break down? The damage you describe is exactly what will happen with different geared ratio diff's. IMO you need to be asking the previous owner whats up. Or it will happened again...
#17
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yes, it could still be possible that F/R diff gear ratios are not matching. the chain was the weakest link so to speak hehe, and that's why it failed there. you can find out your gear ratios by jacking up the vehicle, put a mark on the tire and on the driveshaft/pinion flange - then you rotate and count the revolutions of wheel vs pinion. you can easily look up the exact directions for this, it's a simple exercise
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Hmm. well this is a high mi. vehicle. The Shop said it looked like I had already been rebuilt once before. (And he was thinking not done right) The reason I'm not thinking its the gearing is because this vehicle looks like it's never had any kind of modifications done to it. Abused yes I'll give you that. But bone stock. This thing doesn't even have a K&N on it.
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New Projects
Now that the xfer case mystery has been solved, on to new projects.
My shocks are toast. Need new
Anyone out there have an idea on what they think are the best shocks for the $. Was leaning towards pro-comp But might spring for Bilsteins if anyone thinks there worth the extra Mula. $
My shocks are toast. Need new
Anyone out there have an idea on what they think are the best shocks for the $. Was leaning towards pro-comp But might spring for Bilsteins if anyone thinks there worth the extra Mula. $
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