4Runner HG Replacement: Is My Block Clean Enough? Pics Included
04-06-2012, 04:39 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Philadelphia, PA USA
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
4Runner HG Replacement: Is My Block Clean Enough? Pics Included
4Runner HG Replacement: Is My Block Clean Enough? Pics Included
INFO:
1993 4runner v6
Currently doing a HG job WITH replacement Graphite HG
Question:
Ok, I do know that I needed to clean up the engine surfaces. So I did so with 320 grit Wet or Dry with WD40 as lubricant on a rubber sanding block to keep everything nice and uniform. The one question I do have is do you guys and gals think this is “clean enough” or should I do a couple more minutes on the block? The block still has its factory machine marks on the surface so im confident that I did not remove material from the block yet. Pictures below:
As it is now after cleaning
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Comparing both Passenger side (cleaned) and drivers side (untouched)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
So what do you think? Sand out the rest of the marks or just continue the rebuild? Thanks everyone!
INFO:
1993 4runner v6
Currently doing a HG job WITH replacement Graphite HG
Question:
Ok, I do know that I needed to clean up the engine surfaces. So I did so with 320 grit Wet or Dry with WD40 as lubricant on a rubber sanding block to keep everything nice and uniform. The one question I do have is do you guys and gals think this is “clean enough” or should I do a couple more minutes on the block? The block still has its factory machine marks on the surface so im confident that I did not remove material from the block yet. Pictures below:
As it is now after cleaning
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Comparing both Passenger side (cleaned) and drivers side (untouched)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
So what do you think? Sand out the rest of the marks or just continue the rebuild? Thanks everyone!
04-06-2012, 05:20 PM
#3
Contributing Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
Posts: 5,125
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
^x2 plenty clean.
I use carb cleaner on a lint free cloth to clean all grease/oil/loose dirt, etc. off the block and head surface right before placing the HG and heads.
Also, look closely at the water bypass tube...they are known to get pinhole leaks and also leak where it bolts to the front of the block. I's advise to pull it up and re-seal it at a minimum. Details in the FSM.
You are replacing the knock sensor harness, right?
I use carb cleaner on a lint free cloth to clean all grease/oil/loose dirt, etc. off the block and head surface right before placing the HG and heads.
Also, look closely at the water bypass tube...they are known to get pinhole leaks and also leak where it bolts to the front of the block. I's advise to pull it up and re-seal it at a minimum. Details in the FSM.
You are replacing the knock sensor harness, right?
Last edited by rworegon; 04-06-2012 at 05:41 PM.
04-06-2012, 05:32 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Philadelphia, PA USA
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Perfect! Thanks for the speedy replies everyone!
rworegon:
Thanks for the pointers about the water bypass tube. After you mentioned it and a quick look in the FSM, I have the how-to on re-sealing it. Thanks!
Oh and yes I am replacing the knock sensor harness... I did see that noted on the HG threads I read here before attempting this.
Once again thanks for everything!
rworegon:
Thanks for the pointers about the water bypass tube. After you mentioned it and a quick look in the FSM, I have the how-to on re-sealing it. Thanks!
Oh and yes I am replacing the knock sensor harness... I did see that noted on the HG threads I read here before attempting this.
Once again thanks for everything!
04-06-2012, 05:52 PM
#6
Too clean!
Hint: Next time try using a small wire brush instead.
Like this one.
It don't need to be shiny, just clean. Like get all the old gasket material, loose surface rust, and/or sticky crud off. It's not supposed to look brand new again unless you just had it decked.
Who knows how much sand you just contaminated the inside of your engine block with? I'd feel bad for you, but I've already advised against using sand paper or scotchbrite(and/or any kind of abrasive that's going to leave little bits of itself everywhere you use it) for such purposes. So you should have searched, or atleast asked BEFORE you did it...
Like this one.
It don't need to be shiny, just clean. Like get all the old gasket material, loose surface rust, and/or sticky crud off. It's not supposed to look brand new again unless you just had it decked.
Who knows how much sand you just contaminated the inside of your engine block with? I'd feel bad for you, but I've already advised against using sand paper or scotchbrite(and/or any kind of abrasive that's going to leave little bits of itself everywhere you use it) for such purposes. So you should have searched, or atleast asked BEFORE you did it...
Last edited by MudHippy; 04-06-2012 at 06:00 PM.
04-06-2012, 09:09 PM
#7
Registered User
I'm getting ready to do the head gasket on my 22rte (still) and I'm gonna try this plastic rol-loc bristle disc thing on a mini angle die grinder. The shop that used to be next door to us swore by them. They have different grades for aluminum and cast iron (I got the green one for my cast iron block). I'll see how it works when I get there.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
