3vze timing belt/intake-water pulley
#1
3vze timing belt/intake-water pulley
Hi,
I am in the process of replacing the coolant tube underneath the lower intlet manifold and this one has the idler pulley for the timing belt built into the water inlet for the motor.
Anyway I didnt realize this was the case and thought I might get away with just loosening it off and removing it without knock the belt off a couple of teeth. (was going to cable tie it all in position but couldnt get a cable tie around it all. Of course the belt jumped a couple of teeth when I eventually got the lower inlet manifold out. I put pen marks on the upper two pulleys and corresponding to the belt before I did this so I know where the belt is meant to be but not sure if it slipped at the bottom to I dont think so though.
Can I get away with just putting it all back together trying to get my tops marks lined back up and watch it that the actual crank or cams dont move when I do it up? The thing was never set to TDC as I never realised the bloody pulley had to come off and then when I realised I was kinda like stuff it its coming off now....
Again do you guys think I can get away with this? Dont really have any other option do I? As I cant retime it without everything at TDC?
To my thinking theres no way the crank or cams moved so just watching the belt and cams when I do it up that it doesnt try to pull a cam around by a tooth and it should be ok?
Also the frost plugs under this lower inlet manifold if people are doing this stupid pipe do they usually replace the three frost plugs aswell or just leave them? Obviously its hard to tell exactly where it was leaking but I deff think it was that tube.
I am in the process of replacing the coolant tube underneath the lower intlet manifold and this one has the idler pulley for the timing belt built into the water inlet for the motor.
Anyway I didnt realize this was the case and thought I might get away with just loosening it off and removing it without knock the belt off a couple of teeth. (was going to cable tie it all in position but couldnt get a cable tie around it all. Of course the belt jumped a couple of teeth when I eventually got the lower inlet manifold out. I put pen marks on the upper two pulleys and corresponding to the belt before I did this so I know where the belt is meant to be but not sure if it slipped at the bottom to I dont think so though.
Can I get away with just putting it all back together trying to get my tops marks lined back up and watch it that the actual crank or cams dont move when I do it up? The thing was never set to TDC as I never realised the bloody pulley had to come off and then when I realised I was kinda like stuff it its coming off now....
Again do you guys think I can get away with this? Dont really have any other option do I? As I cant retime it without everything at TDC?
To my thinking theres no way the crank or cams moved so just watching the belt and cams when I do it up that it doesnt try to pull a cam around by a tooth and it should be ok?
Also the frost plugs under this lower inlet manifold if people are doing this stupid pipe do they usually replace the three frost plugs aswell or just leave them? Obviously its hard to tell exactly where it was leaking but I deff think it was that tube.
#2
This is where im upto.
The freeze plugs in the middle of the V were pretty rusty I vacuumed most of the bits out of there and cleaned it all up a bit before I mounted the new coolant tube in there.
Never replaced freeze plugs on anything before do people usually purchase these from Toyota or are they an easily obtainable aftermarket item? Im thinking I probably should replace those three down the middle of the block so nobody has to go back in there just for those.
The freeze plugs in the middle of the V were pretty rusty I vacuumed most of the bits out of there and cleaned it all up a bit before I mounted the new coolant tube in there.
Never replaced freeze plugs on anything before do people usually purchase these from Toyota or are they an easily obtainable aftermarket item? Im thinking I probably should replace those three down the middle of the block so nobody has to go back in there just for those.
#3
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Welcome to YotaTech.
First, you're over-thinking the valve timing. The 3VZE is a "non-interference" engine, so you can turn the cams all you want without colliding with the piston. So turn the cams until the arrows point up, turn the crank to TDC, then install your belt. Don't worry about ANY marks on the belt (including ones you put there), they will all move around as soon as you spin the belt through a full revolution. (Did you remove the tensioner? If not, back up, remove the tensioner, and follow the manual http://web.archive.org/web/201204051...67timingbe.pdf )
Second, for gosh-sakes clean up your work area! Call me anal if you wish, but I can't stand to work with all that crud. Your gaskets will never seal, and you'll miss stuff hiding under all the dirt. Use an old toothbrush and a little paint thinner. Once you get all the dirt out of the valley, you can measure the freeze plugs with your calipers. They are a standard size (though I can't tell you what size they are), and you don't need Toyota OEM. But even from Toyota, they don't cost that much (about $5-7 each).
First, you're over-thinking the valve timing. The 3VZE is a "non-interference" engine, so you can turn the cams all you want without colliding with the piston. So turn the cams until the arrows point up, turn the crank to TDC, then install your belt. Don't worry about ANY marks on the belt (including ones you put there), they will all move around as soon as you spin the belt through a full revolution. (Did you remove the tensioner? If not, back up, remove the tensioner, and follow the manual http://web.archive.org/web/201204051...67timingbe.pdf )
Second, for gosh-sakes clean up your work area! Call me anal if you wish, but I can't stand to work with all that crud. Your gaskets will never seal, and you'll miss stuff hiding under all the dirt. Use an old toothbrush and a little paint thinner. Once you get all the dirt out of the valley, you can measure the freeze plugs with your calipers. They are a standard size (though I can't tell you what size they are), and you don't need Toyota OEM. But even from Toyota, they don't cost that much (about $5-7 each).
#4
Thanks for the advice. Thats what I was worried about weather I was going to end up with valves touching pistons or not. If thats not going to happen its no worries and I'll sort it out.
Im fixing this thing on a farm in the middle of nowhere. I'll take some rags and stuff when I go back. This is a farm truck so as long as it holds water nobodies going to loose to much sleep over it all. Your right about keeping a clean working area but you also gotta do what you gotta do.
And the pic is after I half cleaned it with a vacuum down into the valve area and a razor scrapper. If you think thats dirty now I dont know what to say. I should of taken a photo of this POS when I first pulled the lower intake off. It was a ˟˟˟˟in mess. I actually left it for a day just to get a vacuum to it to vacuum up all the ˟˟˟˟ before I tried to lift the lower intake the amount of ˟˟˟˟ down there was unbelievable must of just about wrecked this vacuum.
Im fixing this thing on a farm in the middle of nowhere. I'll take some rags and stuff when I go back. This is a farm truck so as long as it holds water nobodies going to loose to much sleep over it all. Your right about keeping a clean working area but you also gotta do what you gotta do.
And the pic is after I half cleaned it with a vacuum down into the valve area and a razor scrapper. If you think thats dirty now I dont know what to say. I should of taken a photo of this POS when I first pulled the lower intake off. It was a ˟˟˟˟in mess. I actually left it for a day just to get a vacuum to it to vacuum up all the ˟˟˟˟ before I tried to lift the lower intake the amount of ˟˟˟˟ down there was unbelievable must of just about wrecked this vacuum.
Last edited by skylinerd1; 06-11-2019 at 09:31 PM.
#5
What the general consensus on these frost plugs? Have people seen them leak before??
I will test the old valley tube and see if it actually had a hole in it. If it does not I will certainly replace the frost plugs but if it doesn I think I might leave them.
I will test the old valley tube and see if it actually had a hole in it. If it does not I will certainly replace the frost plugs but if it doesn I think I might leave them.
#6
I need help with knock sensor wiring. The wiring looks to of been "repaired" multiple times and was not connected when I pulled the intake manifold so not entire sure where its supposed to go. From what I can see the knock sensor is actually a single wire plug whereas the wires on the wiring harness that appeared to goto it are a pair. The only two wires in the injector harness that goes over the intake side valve cover that had nothing going to them but were connected to each other as below.
One brown wire and one black. This pair was twisted together by hand not soldered or crimped or anything when I found it just the bare wires twisted together.
The wire that comes up from the knocksensor through the recess in the intake manifold surface has like a ground shield type core on the outside of this wire. Im kinda assuming one of these wires brown/black used to goto that ground sheeth.. I will take a multimeter with me next time I goto look at this thing and test both wires and see if one goes to ground or not.
At the moment I have both the brown and black wires soldered to the wire going to the knock sensor. The wire colour closer to the knock sensor appears to be black so would this be the correct wire to solder to the knock sensor wire to complete this circuit good enough and just discard the brown wire or is it the other way around?
The question is am I going to run into issues like this or not?
Heres a pic of the knocksensor and wiring as I have it atm I also replaced the frost plugs with brass ones while it was apart but im pretty sure the original coolant leak was actually coming from the old intake gasket at the front where coolant goes into the lower intake manifold.
One brown wire and one black. This pair was twisted together by hand not soldered or crimped or anything when I found it just the bare wires twisted together.
The wire that comes up from the knocksensor through the recess in the intake manifold surface has like a ground shield type core on the outside of this wire. Im kinda assuming one of these wires brown/black used to goto that ground sheeth.. I will take a multimeter with me next time I goto look at this thing and test both wires and see if one goes to ground or not.
At the moment I have both the brown and black wires soldered to the wire going to the knock sensor. The wire colour closer to the knock sensor appears to be black so would this be the correct wire to solder to the knock sensor wire to complete this circuit good enough and just discard the brown wire or is it the other way around?
The question is am I going to run into issues like this or not?
Heres a pic of the knocksensor and wiring as I have it atm I also replaced the frost plugs with brass ones while it was apart but im pretty sure the original coolant leak was actually coming from the old intake gasket at the front where coolant goes into the lower intake manifold.
Last edited by skylinerd1; 06-18-2019 at 04:03 AM.
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#9
I got this pigtail off a corolla from the wreckers it cost me nothing they gave it to me. As the old plug was a bit far gone. Im not buying new. Already made three trips to Toyota and got totally shafted imo. I own a couple mercedes benz's and honestly some of these parts prices are in that league. So im a bit surprised and none to keen to go back there.
This has cost near a grand in parts already. I did all the stuff I could while this is out injector seals, frost plugs, and the tube under the intake manifold all new heater hoses etc... They all were due.
Im in New Zealand so aftermarket parts and stuff is likely not as easy to come by cheaply down here.
Ok thats easy enough to sort. Brown to the shield and black to the knock sensor easy. Thanks guys.
This has cost near a grand in parts already. I did all the stuff I could while this is out injector seals, frost plugs, and the tube under the intake manifold all new heater hoses etc... They all were due.
Im in New Zealand so aftermarket parts and stuff is likely not as easy to come by cheaply down here.
Ok thats easy enough to sort. Brown to the shield and black to the knock sensor easy. Thanks guys.
Last edited by skylinerd1; 06-18-2019 at 01:04 PM.
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