3VZE - Runs HOT after re-built heads installed
#1
3VZE - Runs HOT after re-built heads installed
1994 pickup w/3VZE...
Got re-built heads on, new timing belt, new OEM t-stat.
Engine is getting really hot; I assume the cooling system needs burping? On the car I'm used to working on, there is a valve at the high point of the coolant system on the engine. Don't see something similar on the truck's.
Timing is good. Idles/revs fine (we have not driven it yet). Cabin heat does not work.
What am I doing wrong???
Thanks!!
Got re-built heads on, new timing belt, new OEM t-stat.
Engine is getting really hot; I assume the cooling system needs burping? On the car I'm used to working on, there is a valve at the high point of the coolant system on the engine. Don't see something similar on the truck's.
Timing is good. Idles/revs fine (we have not driven it yet). Cabin heat does not work.
What am I doing wrong???
Thanks!!
#2
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Park the truck on a hill with the front end up, or just lift the front up with a jack. Get it up nice and high (front tires 6 to 10 inches off the ground). Remove the radiator cap. slide the heat lever to full hot (on rear heater too, if you have one). Make sure the radiator is full, and overflow bottle has coolant up to the full line.
Start the engine. If coolant level in radiator drops, top it up so that it's full. Now, with engine running and the rad cap still off, gently squeeze the top radiator hose repeatedly (squeeze it to the point that the coolant almost overflows from the fill hole, then let it go, and repeat.) This should help the air bubbles make their way out of the open radiator fill hole. As the coolant level drops, keep topping it up. It usually takes me roughly 5-10 minutes of this until I'm satisfied that all the air is out. When you're done, put the rad cap back on, take it for a spin, and see how you did (check that your cabin heat is working.)
If this doesn't work, troubleshoot your new thermostat (maybe it's plugged with old gasket material and stuff that might have fallen into the coolant passages in the block when you did your rebuild?
Start the engine. If coolant level in radiator drops, top it up so that it's full. Now, with engine running and the rad cap still off, gently squeeze the top radiator hose repeatedly (squeeze it to the point that the coolant almost overflows from the fill hole, then let it go, and repeat.) This should help the air bubbles make their way out of the open radiator fill hole. As the coolant level drops, keep topping it up. It usually takes me roughly 5-10 minutes of this until I'm satisfied that all the air is out. When you're done, put the rad cap back on, take it for a spin, and see how you did (check that your cabin heat is working.)
If this doesn't work, troubleshoot your new thermostat (maybe it's plugged with old gasket material and stuff that might have fallen into the coolant passages in the block when you did your rebuild?
Last edited by GSGALLANT; 10-15-2006 at 04:33 PM.
#3
GSGALLANT - Thanks for the quick reply. After I posted, I calmed down a bit and did a search to find a trick whereby you remove the heater hose at the firewall and fill it with coolant. I tried this and it worked *perfectly*.
(Thanks also for your helpful response on my earlier thread.)
Regards,
Hans in Seattle
(Thanks also for your helpful response on my earlier thread.)
Regards,
Hans in Seattle
#6
Here's the post, from https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...52&postcount=9
I've had really great results by filling the engine after draining coolant by using the hose coming off of the by-pass block at the rear of my 3.0 3VZE. First time I did this, I soaked my shirt while leaning over the radiator with cap off, as the rad backfilled easily. System was filled with no burping needed.
#7
Registered User
All I do is take the clamp off the hose that is at the highest point and sitck a small screw driver into it until it squirts coolant then button her up. you can hear the air escaping. Easiest way I can think of with the 3vze.
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