3VZE rebuild questions
 

I have a 1990 4 runner with the V6, 3VZE engine and the 4 speed automatic transmission. This weekend it lost all, or most, of its oil. I'm presuming it's a front main seal, owing to the position of the oil slick and my understanding of engine geometry. Reparing that is not going to be an issue for me, just time consuming. The problem is that from the time it first gave me the warning to the time I got it on the side of the road, it started knocking, though the tone seemed wrong for a rod knock, I'm still looking at the odometer and figuring on a rebuild. I've never done a Toyota engine before, and I haven't done an engine rebuild in probably 15 years. I read another thread with suggestions on the best rebuild kit, and I'll get it through Engnbldr. Machine work will be done locally. However, I'm wondering if I'm going to need to do anything to the computer when I do the rebuild. If by chance I decide to increase the compression or change the cam, will the existing computer handle it, or will I need an upgrade/replacement? If so, do y'all have any recommendations?

My wife wants me to just have one of those low mileage engines from Japan put in, but I just don't feel like I want to do that.

I'm no novice here, but I kind of gave up tinkering with cars some time ago. However, I like this truck and I'm thinking I might like to do the work myself, just to add my signature to it, but I was a Chevy guy for most of my life and my experience is mostly with that old stuff that had no computers, so I'm not entirely certain if it will be an issue.

ThanX,
DC

you can't do much of anything to the computer, atleast not to my knowledge.

atleast not without going Standalone, if they make a standalone system for the 3VZ.


people have put cams in these motors before with no problems at all, just don't get wild with it.

it's not a race motor, it's a SMALL V6,

just to let you know though, cams alone won't do much, to see a worthwhile improvement, you'll probably need to upgrade the intake, headers (GREAT decision regardless of anything else), free flowing exhaust too.

some places are mentioned in my 3VZ rebuild thread on the topic of Cams.

I'm not likely to do anything radical with the cam. I've found the engineers typically did a pretty good job working out those details. The truck is a daily driver -- or will be again -- with occasional forays offroad and the yearly trip to Pismo Beach to run the dunes. I mostly wanted to be sure the computer wouldn't trip me up if I decided to tweak the engine some.

ThanX for the replies.
DC

Well good luck, Im in the middle of my rebuild right now.... i seem to forget it always ends up being more of a job than you think it will

I just finished a rebuild, and now the engine won't start up. I have double checked everything to make sure every hose and connector is properly connected. I tried to pull the engine code, but it just blinks consistantly indicating that everything is okay. I have primed the motor and I have oil pressure, but the car just keeps cranking but no start up. Anything that I might have over looked?

Spark, Fuel, Timing.

check those AGAIN.

make sure your timing belt is spot on.

Make sure you're firing on all cylinders.

make sure you're getting fuel.


will it just not start, or does it sounds like it turning out without any resistance, as in no compression?

and if you do any tweaking to the motor, cams, timing, stuff like that. (Original Poster.)
then you will prolly wanna richen the AFM by a couple clicks

I rechecked the timing and I set the crankshaft pulley to zero degrees with the cams on TDC. I am using brand new spark plugs but older spark plug wires. I figured they worked when I disassembled the motor so I figure it should be able to start the motor back up.

The motor has resistance when cranking, but it will just not start.

camo31 - how do I check if I am firing on all cyclinders?

sorry if this is a question that is frequently asked and beat to death. :bang:

When your at DTC on the compression stroke of #1 cylinder and your cams are lined up( intake and exhaust valves loose on #1) is you rotor pointing at #1 spark plug lead?
You can pull each plug one at a time and ground them while you crank the engine , you will see if you have spark ( a spark checker is easier).