3VZE oil pressure sender leak
 

So it seems my oil pressure sender has developed a leak, the threads are dry and not leaking, it seems to be from the assembly itself. I just changed my oil recently and would prefer not to do it again immediately. Has anybody heard of catastrophic failure of the sender causing it to loose oil very quickly? That is my main concern while driving, if it continues to slow drip I will get some mileage out of this oil before I dump it again to change the sender.

Looks like this is the Toyota p/n:
8352034010 (with gauge)
https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/T...352034010.html

Oil drip:
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...2ee6c01af2.png
Where I assume it is leaking from:
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...5eb5e6ee9f.jpg

Is that right? I've never pulled one out with oil in the engine before, I assumed I'd lose quite a bit of oil.

Just hold your dipstick NEXT to the dipstick tube. Where is the "full" line compared to the position of the sender? Yes, there will be some oil in the galleries behind the sender, but you probably won't lose more than a tablespoon or two. Even less if you let it sit for a while. For that matter, that little bit of oil will hang around there even if you drain the oil out of the pan. So you're good to go.

BTW, good job tracking down the part number online. Just so you know, RockAuto has aftermarket units for as little as half Lakeland's (otherwise very good) price. So you have a choice.

Good idea, thank you.

I was going to use Teflon tape on the threads, I imagine they will cut through to allow a ground. I see the FSM suggests: Part No. 08833–00080, THREE BOND 1344,
LOCTITE 242 or equivalent.

What do you think would be the best option?

I think teflon tape would be fine. (It's good enough for nuclear reactors, I'm sure it will hold back 100psi of oil) Rad4Runner has had experience where sensors apparently failed to ground through corrosion in the threaded joint, but I doubt you'll have that issue. And you'll know immediately if it doesn't work.

Loctite 242 (or equivalent, like Permatex Blue) might give you a little more "locking," but the threads are tapered so with modest torque they are unlikely to shake loose. But a threadlocker might give you a little peace of mind.

Got one on order from O'Reilly to pick up tomorrow morning. From the description it seems to have thread sealant pre-applied to the threads.

It's an Import Direct - $38.99 w/lifetime warranty.

New sender is installed, functioning and no longer leaking.
O'Reilly Import Direct p/n: 17-0632

The plug broke off the harness while I was installing it, 24 year old wiring just gave up. There wasn't enough wire attached to the plug end to splice it back on, so I have a new one (p/n: 90980-11363) on order and used a female disconnect terminal in the meantime.

Included part numbers for anyone interested.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...d9bee17405.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...2d2f7be317.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...2f8ab7bb67.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...f212cbd6fd.jpg

Mine was a beck arnley from Rock Auto that went bad after 13 months. No leak just erratic readings, like back and forth down to zero while on the interstate!
Purchased an AutoZone duralast with a button and a blade terminal on it that says yazaki on it like my cluster swap does in the hope that it will read higher. Limited lifetime as opposed to 12 months beck arnley crappy warranty.
Maybe better to just buy oem though.
How did you access yours? No room from above.
Oil cooler? in way from below.

See my reply to your thread. Go in just like you're changing the oil filter.