Chooch

Getting a list of parts together. Doing my head gaskets, getting the valve grind gasket kit from toyota along with a new timing belt etc.

Replacing both rad hoses, what else should I replace? I know I need to replace the knock sensor wire but anything else you guys can think of? Also what is this part called, its a hose that runs from the reed valve to the plenum. I just cut it off as the clamp was a bitch to get at.



Also this vacuum switch broke


Looks like that, whats the actual name for the part? Cant find it on Rock Auto.

SeeBeeAre

Water Pump, double check fuel rail for leaks before installing plenum.... Did the truck over heat? I'd throw in thermostat belts and hoses if needed

rworegon

Replace any vacuum or coolant hoses that are hard to reach with the heads and intake installed.

Use the change vehicle link and go searching:
http://www.toyomotorparts.com/sectio...rts-11946.html

scope103

Hose, No. 1, for Air Injection System
http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/t...341-65040.html

Valve, Bimetal Vacuum Switching No. 1 (often called TVV - Thermal Vacuum Valve)
http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/t...925-05047.html

I recommend you lay your hand on a bent-handle flex-head ratchet (like this: http://www.sears.com/blackhawk-bent-...&blockType=G16) It will make removing the exhaust crossover actually quite easy.

Get some long 1/2" extensions (http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-67977.html). The nuts on the exhaust line can only be removed from under the truck, reaching back up to the exh manifold. Don't be one of those guys with a string of 6 or 7 3" and 5" 3/8 extensions (you'll break one for sure).

The trick to removing old hoses (particularly the PAIR hose) is hot air. I use a hot air gun, but a hair dryer would work. The hoses become much more pliable with just a little warmth. Be careful; your hot air gun can actually set the hose on fire if you go nuts.

Several on this site claim to have successfully repaired the TVV. I tried but couldn't because the plastic was too crumbly.

Get one of those magnets-on-a-stick. No, you're not going to drop anything. This is just for holding papers to the fender so you can read them.

I use yogurt cups, but short of that you can use ziploc bags to sort the parts (fasteners) as they come off. Don't skip this step; if you lay the hardware on the floor as it comes off, you're doomed. Get a pad and write down what you see as you go -- fastener sizes and what holes they go to. A camera is good too, but doesn't replace paper.

And maybe some valium. You'll run into things that, at first, seem trickier than your PAIR hose. If you'd taken the time to figure out using hot air, you wouldn't need to buy a new hose. That's just a $12 mistake; at some point you're going to get really mad at something that costs a lot. Take your time. If you're in a hurry, this isn't the job for you.

Chooch

I already got the heads off and im picking them up from the machine shop tomorrow. Didn't need the flex head ratchet, getting the cross over off wasn't that difficult. I'm an apprentice mechanic with lots of domestic experience under my belt. This 3vze is a new world to me. Learning as I go. Thanks for the reply on the parts though, appreciate it.

Chooch

Alright got the heads back from the machine shop. Just waiting on my parts now. couple questions.

When installing the new headbolts each bolt needs to have the little washer/shim on it right? Also when pulling off the old bolts I noticed a few of them had some sort of spacer on them aswell. Whats the point of the spacers as they were only on a few bolts? Which bolts do they go on?

Also the cyl 1 piston has some little divets in the head. Should I be worried about this? Also Cylinder 5 has some cylinder wall wear. Should I be worried about this also?

You can kind of see the damage, ˟˟˟˟ty camera doesnt show it up to well.

wcasey5

check your spark plug for #1 cylinder, the electrode probably broke off and was rattling around in there. That's what happened to mine. No cylinder damage, just picks in the head and piston.

wcasey5

The spacers (there should be 2) go on bolt A.It is a 14mm head, reusable bolt that gets torqued last. On the right head (from the back of the vehicle) it will be nearest the firewall, exhaust side. On the left head, it will be under the distributer, exhaust side. IIRC it is torqued to 27 ftlbs.

scope103

I'm not too happy about #5. The cylinder wall may be okay (can you feel anything on the wall?) but I suspect the rings aren't sealing well anymore. Whatever got caught in there and scraped up the cylinder wall sure can't be good for the rings.

You could remove the pan and push the piston out of #5. But if you do that, you'll want to re-ring them all, and check the clearance on the bearings, .... (And if you have 4wd, removing the pan requires dropping the front diff or other gymnastics.)

Or you can button it all up and hope for the best (test compression on #5. or not.)

Good luck!

Chooch

Thats exactly what happened, I changed the plugs awhile ago and the one I pulled out of cyl 1 was broken.

Are these the only ones with spacers? I swear I pulled a few headbolts out that had spacers on them.

I probably wont drop the pan, ill hope for the best with it. But when I did a compression test a couple weeks ago cyl 5 was at 179psi. Heres my compression numbers.

cyl 1 - 183psi
cyl 2 - 178psi
cyl 3 - 182psi
cyl 4 - 172psi
cyl 5 - 179psi
cyl 6 - 185psi

rworegon

It looks like all 16 head bolts get a washer plate.

Use the Change Vehicle link to enter your info.....look under the cylinder head section.
Click the More Info for a diagram.

http://www.toyomotorparts.com/Page_P...VAID=3520,3521

Chooch

Anyone know where this bracket goes?

hambob

pcv valve while you have the intake off. its a pia otherwise.

Chooch

Did that about a month ago, took me 5mins to do without removing anything. You just gotta have the right tools.

snap-on

take your upper intake apart and clean out all the gunk were the EGR dumps out in the intake.

have your injectors cleaned