SeaWulf

The thing has been problematic non-stop since the day I bought it and I was literally planning on putting it up for sale this week. I needed to get it out of the way fast and don't have a lot of time to mess with it.

The guy I sold it to might be interested in tearing it down in his free time *shrug*

HawkStrong16

Sell it to me, I've got a D24 Volvo diesel that needs to find a good home, that clean runner would be a good option(its probably gonna go in my yota pickup as the 22RE is giving me fits)

I'd say he maybe broke a valve spring and it managed to get wedged in and lock the cam. Or over torqued cam bolt finally let loose. Or both

ddiablolll

my theory is this:
-the driver side head warped cuz :drum roll: that horrible exhaust design
-the warped head (and cam journals)twisted all about while the cam fought to stay straight
-the friction built up... and the cam welded itself to its journals
-BANG

if you do fix this you need to:
-get a new gasket... preferably a multi layer steel gasket part #REPT312746 $50
-copper permatex spray for extra head gasket sealing assurance $10
-get the heads decked $100
-get the heads cam journals line honed $100
-get a new cam $150 or grab one at the junk yard for less than $50
-get new head bolts on ebay $30

Total = ~$350 and a few 8hr days of labor

*special: have an exhaust shop make you a new better crossover exhaust pipe $100

ddiablolll

im sure you could get at least a $1000 for it 'as is", and forget the 3.4 swap they are over priced and glorified. if you opt for a swap use a chevy v8 its much cheaper, simpler, and not mention powerful.

rworegon

Hey, next time it might be good to read the thread before responding.......OP said above on 5/26/12 that the rig was already sold.

BMcEL

Is that why they are so common? Come on.

ddiablolll

i'm just saying there are much cheaper engine swap options in my opinion. now don't get me wrong here im not hating on the 5vze. the 5vze is a very stout and reliable engine, one of my favorites out of toyota. but when i tow my boat its impossible to go the speed limit with the under powered 3vze, and with the 5vze its only ok... but better. still 1uz or any 4.0L+ engine is a better choice in my opinion.

ksti

what rig do you own?, Don't see any info on it.

MudHippy

Look...enough with the questioning his expertise on the matter. Just let the guy be a know-it-all on the subject.

It's alright :drum roll: we all know he isn't...because his theories are most obviously unsound.

The head warped causing enough camshaft misalignment to induce sufficient friction/heat to build up allowing the camshaft to weld itself to the journal? Are you fricken kidding me?

All you really have to do is let these types hang themselves...as that's what they do so proficiently...

2big4arunner

The bearings could seize up in the right conditions to make them seem like they are "welded"onto the head. Its all just a perspective in the game of repairing vehicles.



the 3.4 swap is so common because its a plug and play swap. I might also point out that the 3.4 is just a dohc fixed version of the 3.0 with slightly more displacement.

If you want the best 3.0 of that year from Toyota its the 2jz and people don't do it often because they can't do the work/ wiring.

I personally make the 3.0 have more power and torque then the 3.4 and don't get head gasket issues. Its all in the details guys. If you don't like what I said then you can use the search button again and see how nice a 3.0 can really be in the right hands.


Ps. I don't like people who bash Toyota or their creations.

BMcEL

You want to elaborate on that?


Plug and play, huh?

2big4arunner

Fix the exhaust headers, open up the intake, put on high tension 8mm wires from a 3vzfe and replace the injectors with good ones. Easy as pie

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

where's the proof?

2big4arunner

its all over yotatech... do I have to show dyno charts to prove that the 3vz has some life to it if you fix the original old technology? If you really want to make some more power go to coils and cam sensors, get rid of the original engine control and opt for a injector and ignition control box that you can tune (I personally like AEM for this)

Once you get to that point in the build, the only thing your really doing is adding to the cost of the older engine and it would be better to switch to the 1jz, 2jz, 1uz or 3uz motors. the items I discussed first are cheap mods you can get from a self pull wrecking yard. You also have to fab up the crossover elimination mod and add a 2 1/2" or better pipe and exhaust all the way back. its not hard to believe if you know anything about upgrading engines.

like everyone seems to say

"USE THE SEARCH BUTTON"

BMcEL

Sure you can open the 3vz up a little, but if you're going to claim getting more power than a 5vz out of a 3vz is "easy as pie", then yes, you will need to post up proof of the modifications and dyno runs before anyone will believe you.

Not trying to call ya a liar, but many have claimed the same and never proved it.

lastname_firstname

still good post for future readers w/ similar problems

ddiablolll

i will simplify my crazy theory: a bearing siezed, and parts broke.

ddiablolll

you know i liked yota tech once....when i was a kid, but i was saddened at the time because i found a vast empty hole called "engine Performance Tech forum". now years later its still preserved, and still waiting for someone to top the old infamous 'misters in front of the radiator thread'. a true milestone thread round here apparently.

sadly (but not surprisingly); no one on this site has answers when it comes to anything mechanical. i'm sure you guys could fix a dead battery, but i doubt you could fix a dead engine. by the way, all of you jr.mechanics and guys with 1,000's of posts but no answers -kiss my and dont visit the physics forum