jerrysf

I just recently had this same problem as far as trying to accelerate or even just give a lil gas and my truck would stall even if i hit the brakes to put more load on the engine it would stall and my problem was that my battery went dead because my alternator was shot...so i would look into your alternator being shot...this was on a 3.0 v6 if it helps

Chewonit64

Tested this theory. But the alternator is good. I'm going to wait for my new air line to come in so that I know I'm not losing vacuum through that connection before I start trying much else.

thook

Which air line are you talking about, anyway? The air intake hose that goes from the airflow meter to the throttle opening.....the big one?

Chewonit64

That is the one. Yup.

thook

Alrighty then.

Team420

ya... thats what the clicking is then.... the cor for the fuel pump is right there near the ecu, the afm isnt reading enough vacuum, and the cor keeps clicking in and out.... if you have duct tape on the hose, it is still causing a vacuum leak, and would explain rough running and shaking.... I bet my left nut that the rig will run fine with the new intake hose.

Kiroshu

Those intakes hoses cause alot of issues. Its good to replace them. I have replaced mine twice in the life of my truck just cause they fatigue and crack. Like team said even with tape it will still rob performance. A vacuum leak in that hose cause major issue which is a big reason they did away with "Vein Type Air Flow meters."

Chewonit64

Still waiting on the hose, which is pretty annoying. But in the mean time I've wired in my Alpine deck and CB. I have an Alpine amp and two 10" subs kicking around. I've been thinking about mounting them in the storage compartments under the back seats. Anyone done this before?

I'm thinking if they don't fit, I can lift the back seats to make em fit....

thook

Nope........never dun'it.

Chewonit64

Well I guess I'll see how it goes! I'll post pictures if I decide it's possible and start working on it.

thook

Good luck, chuck!

Kalihi,HI

Anybody got any ideas about my fuel pressure (tested at the LH delivery pipe as FSM says) being 38-40psi with truck on at idle (FSM range: 38-44psi)but then dropping to 0psi within seconds of turning off truck. FSM says the pressure should main above 21psi for at least 5 minutes after turning off truck. I have changed fuel filter, new reman'ed Denso injectors, new pressure regulator, all new crush washers, fuel pulsation damper seems fine, and no apparent fuel leaks. I'm thinking I need to drop my fuel tank (or remove my bed??) and replace my fuel pump?? Any help is greatly appreciated!

okamikai

Hi, I'm having a similar issue, here's a link to my thread, also I had to repair my ECU cuz it burned a diode, a chip, and a transistor. I'm blaming myself for not buying original electronic parts; I replaced my TPS with a cheap one and tracing the cables lead me to the TPS, also, in it's last days, the ECU gave me a code 41, TPS, I hope this helps...

jjyoda_86

did you ever figure out what was causing your problem my truck has had the same issue and ive done almost everything I could think of and it still does it.

Kalihi,HI

Found out that my issue was that my timing belt was off one tooth on each cam shaft. Re-aligned it and its good now, drives much better without hesitation with acceleration. When I did a compression test and all 6 cylinders tested about 145psi across the board. My mechanic did a leak down test and found that all 6 cylinders build compression as I found myself, but cylinder #2 is not holding pressure...Does this mean valve adjustment time for me? Also, my clutch needs to be replaced since when I accelerate, my RPMs increase, but my speed does not...I love my truck, but it sure is taking a lot out of me. Any suggestions for the clutch kit? I'm thinking of going with an OEM Aisin clutch kit. Any suggestions for the misfire in cylinder #2?