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3VZ Rebuild

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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 08:41 AM
  #21  
camo31_10.50's Avatar
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From: Vian, OK
Will do Cappy!!

i'm about to put it on the backburner for a few days and get my '80 toyota in sell-able condition then i'm going to use that money to fund the 4runner

i'm also putting my '86 up for sale too! $3500 if anybody is interested! it'll be posted in the Oklahoma and Arkansas craigslist!

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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 08:50 AM
  #22  
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From: Just North of Pittsburgh
Cool

Watchin and learnin more of what not to do than what I need to do...

Just kiddin. I'm going to be getting into mine soon so the more I see apart the better I'll know what to do.

.
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 09:54 AM
  #23  
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From: Souderton, PA
Just a rebuild or you adding any goodies?

x2 on keeping a total

planning a 3VZ build in the near future
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 02:11 PM
  #24  
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From: Anchorage
Make this tool and you can easily remove crank and cam bolts with the engine in or out of the truck. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l-tool-186081/
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 04:05 PM
  #25  
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From: Vian, OK
wellll, i wanna add a set of cams, and i might just do it!

i want a cam that's gonna be good from about 1500rpms up until...somewhere like 4500-5000rpms lmao

idk hot to go about getting some custom cams done, idk if i would need to know the specs, or if i would just tell them and they make the cam for that range?
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 04:15 PM
  #26  
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From: Perris, CA
Pretty sure Crower makes a cam for this application.
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 04:48 PM
  #27  
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From: Miami, Florida
Awsome.. this is Godsent..Currently doing the same thing with my hydrolocked 3.0 but im swapping my core out for a rebuilt core from titanengines.com Check them out Camo. DEF gonna follow this thread..lol out of nessesity..Good luck and hope everything goes smooth. How do you plan on discharging the AC lines?
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 09:41 PM
  #28  
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From: Vian, OK
have no clue..hoping maybe i can just unbolt it from the block and leave the lines attached LOL

and i posted up my 1980 toyota, and my 1986, on craigslist this morning at about 10am...and i just checked my email..i have over 20replies of PEOPLE wanting to buy them..(got about 35 emails..but the 15 or so were spam.....)..hell a couple of them live pretty close to me too LOL!!! this might end up going well you guys if i sell both of these trucks..that's close to $2000 for me to spend
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 04:19 PM
  #29  
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From: Gulf Shores, Alabama
next time try succouring your ratchet against something and bumping the starter. it worked like a charm for me.

ok...first rough spot has been hit, the dang Crank Bolt.....

how the hell do ya get that loose!?!?

truck is in 4low, 1st gear..with the ebrake on and the tires scotched....and it just creeps backwards (because to loosen it..would make the truck roll backwards..)

i don't have access to an impact, i have about a 3ft breaker bar though..which has always done the trick in the past with any other vehicle....and i can't get any thing in or around any of the pulley's to keep everything from moving.

Last edited by jdwilson; Jan 20, 2010 at 04:23 PM.
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 07:40 AM
  #30  
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i posted a photo of the tool i made on the first page of the thread but here it is again. Once again I do not take credit for this tool a user on this site Bugs1961 showed us how to make it https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l-tool-186081/ I modified it a bit cause it kept on bending on me. took off the bolts that was holding on my air box (longer but the same thread) and thread the tool itself onto the crank pulley.
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 09:02 AM
  #31  
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From: Vian, OK
well....seeing as how the harness is fully unhooked, and the truck wouldn't even start before i pulled it into the garage i can't use the starter trick LOL, if i could i woulda used it a longg time ago LOL
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 09:34 AM
  #32  
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From: Gulf Shores, Alabama
I gotcha well maybe it'll help someone else out. Remember you don't need ignition to bump starter just main cable to battery and a lil jump wire. But now ya got a useful tool.
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 12:38 PM
  #33  
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Oh now I see where you wrote "I can't get anything in or around any of the pulley's to keep everything from moving" sorry about that, but you still may be able to do something like this where maybe you just got one length of that bar type that is in the picture I posted last and drill two holes in it that match up with the pulley holes and instead of going from up top you go in from down under (with the skid plate off of course ) then temporarily take off two bolts (see pic) from the outer crank pulley, line up the two holes you drilled into the bar that you can pick up from home depot in the hardware section for 7-10 bucks and literally fasten the bar to the pulley two longer bolts. I found some bolts that matched the thread of the pulley and was long enough for what you are doing which are the bolts used to fasten the filter box onto the drivers side fender. you got three of them so it will be easy to get it em in or out of there you will just need a long extension to get to em.
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 12:51 PM
  #34  
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hit me up if you need clarification I know that post was lengthy but trust me if it is something to stop the engine spinning this'll do it. the bar if it is like 3' or so it'll either hit the ground or the frame depending on where you place when you start turning the bolt. also something else that i would change about what i just said is that you might wanna get the "C" profile bar when you get one, and all that is a just like the straight bar but it has a bend on each side for the length of bar on each side to give it more structure. (its less likely to bend)
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 08:14 AM
  #35  
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From: Vian, OK
thanks buddy i'll remember that when i go to take off the crank pulley this weekend
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 09:17 AM
  #36  
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titanengines.com ARGH!!! I wish I would have known about these guys last year, I paid this much for a freaking head gasket job at the dealership and they didnt even machine me heads!!!!!
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 04:22 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Ilovemountains
titanengines.com ARGH!!! I wish I would have known about these guys last year, I paid this much for a freaking head gasket job at the dealership and they didnt even machine me heads!!!!!
OUCH!!!Better late than never.. you never know what can happen in the future (knocking on wood)..
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 05:58 PM
  #38  
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From: Vian, OK
HEY GUYS!!! it's been a little while since i've updated but that's life LOL

i'm gonna be really tearing into this 4runner again this weekend (after i sell the '80 lol)

first off..can i just unbolt the A/C compressor and move it out of the way, or will i have to discharge the refrigerant and take the compressor COMPLETELY out? i'd rather just unbolt it and not have to recharge the system later on ya know..

and well..i believe that's my only question LOL

it's gonna be a PAIN to get the crossover unbolted (took a closer look at the design...that's fricken STUPID to do the exhaust like that.......) and the tranny unbolted :/ wishme luck guys lol
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 06:29 PM
  #39  
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hey man let me know how hard the tranny is and i had to discharge mine but im replacing just about everything under the hood (except for most of the wiring and hoses)...

How much you want for the '80 and how many miles does it have on it?
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 05:05 AM
  #40  
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Lemme know how that discharge goes for you..
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