33x12.5 Goodyear MTR Stock Wheels + No Lift = Possible?
05-18-2011, 05:09 PM
#1
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33x12.5 Goodyear MTR Stock Wheels + No Lift = Possible?
Found a crazy deal on a set of Goodyear MTR's, 33x12.5 with just about 75% tread, only wanting 150cdn fplus my 31x10.5 BFG All Terrain tires, now I need to know if its possible to run that size with no lift for now. What do you guys think? I found one guy running that size on stock wheels and no lift.
https://www.yotatech.com/50739921-post22.html
https://www.yotatech.com/50739921-post22.html
05-18-2011, 05:14 PM
#2
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not sure about the 91's but on my 87 I had to hammer and crank t-bars but it's possible. I have no lift up front. Cannot speak about rear as I have a flatbed on mine so it wasn't an issue. See my build thread if you want to see what I had to do. But agai nthe 91's have a slightly different fenderwell, and I have a different backspace on the wheels as well which push them in further.
05-18-2011, 06:43 PM
#3
Yeah, no idea how he got those to work with stock height and wheels. My 33x12.5x15 toyos rub and I had to do things to make them fit. It's definitely possible though - check out axleike. He's kinda got what you're looking for.
You should have a look at the "what size fits" thread to look for more specific answers, but in general the 12.5 wide tires have issues when you need them to fit without modifications. One will be the stock wheels since they're 7" wide and 4.5" backspacing. Most likely they'd rub on the control arms due to sidewall bulge. You could overcome this by using wheel spacers or modifications like axleike did to his upper control arm, but 7" wheel is still fairly narrow for a 12.5" wide tire. Second is rubbing on body or frame when you turn. Most likely you'll need to trim and pound the pinch weld area to give clearance.
So yeah, if you've gotta give him your tires, you might wanna make sure you've got something to hold you over until you get them to fit enough to not rub during DD stuff - then you can tinker and make sure they fit when offloading. My front end has bj spacers, slightly cranked t-bars, 15x8-3.75 wheels and some cutting. Now I only rub on my firewall/pinch weld when flexed, which I've hardly pounded at all so far, and on the fender to body mount up front ( but thats because i hit a rock wheeling and bent it toward tire). Planning on eliminating those fender mounts with new front bumper and tubbing firewall for ease of mind and so i dont have to do it when i might put 35s on someday. I had it at close to stock height with bj spacers (relaxed tbars) and couldn't turn - had to start chopping tips of bumper and the sheet around the pinch weld area and crank over 1" into the tbars - now I need longer shackles, lol the mods never end. Look in tire thread regarding "cutting to make tires fit". Good luck mang, we all like good deals - time for some new tires.
You should have a look at the "what size fits" thread to look for more specific answers, but in general the 12.5 wide tires have issues when you need them to fit without modifications. One will be the stock wheels since they're 7" wide and 4.5" backspacing. Most likely they'd rub on the control arms due to sidewall bulge. You could overcome this by using wheel spacers or modifications like axleike did to his upper control arm, but 7" wheel is still fairly narrow for a 12.5" wide tire. Second is rubbing on body or frame when you turn. Most likely you'll need to trim and pound the pinch weld area to give clearance.
So yeah, if you've gotta give him your tires, you might wanna make sure you've got something to hold you over until you get them to fit enough to not rub during DD stuff - then you can tinker and make sure they fit when offloading. My front end has bj spacers, slightly cranked t-bars, 15x8-3.75 wheels and some cutting. Now I only rub on my firewall/pinch weld when flexed, which I've hardly pounded at all so far, and on the fender to body mount up front ( but thats because i hit a rock wheeling and bent it toward tire). Planning on eliminating those fender mounts with new front bumper and tubbing firewall for ease of mind and so i dont have to do it when i might put 35s on someday. I had it at close to stock height with bj spacers (relaxed tbars) and couldn't turn - had to start chopping tips of bumper and the sheet around the pinch weld area and crank over 1" into the tbars - now I need longer shackles, lol the mods never end. Look in tire thread regarding "cutting to make tires fit". Good luck mang, we all like good deals - time for some new tires.
05-18-2011, 07:01 PM
#5
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I have an 89 with 3'' of body and I could run 33s without rubbing but without the lift I think you would be close..I have a 96 stock with 31s and they rub
Last edited by WORMS; 05-18-2011 at 07:05 PM.
05-18-2011, 07:42 PM
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seriously go for it!
I only have a 2 inch body and could run 35 or proabably 37s.
i just had to cut the plastic fender liner by the pinch weld a little.
here is my 91 on 33x12.5s
and they dont rub when wheeling either. or at least i havent got them to lol
I only have a 2 inch body and could run 35 or proabably 37s.
i just had to cut the plastic fender liner by the pinch weld a little.
here is my 91 on 33x12.5s
and they dont rub when wheeling either. or at least i havent got them to lol
05-18-2011, 07:45 PM
#7
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It should fit depending on the backspacing on your wheels. Youll have to beat the pinch weld on the front. It will be pretty close and you probably wont wanna wheel it
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05-18-2011, 08:06 PM
#9
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Yeah with stock wheels you should be fine. Im sure if you beat the pinch welds youll be fine for the street depending on how saggy your rear is. If you wanna wheel it I think youll be wanting a 1-2in lift.
05-18-2011, 08:47 PM
#10
diggin ur 91
05-18-2011, 09:59 PM
#13
so is my 89. i need another tc asap. ups damaged my new one now it's gonna be 2wks before i get it. machine shop need the tc to deck my block. their getting antsy from waiting. ordered a crank and ups scuffed it up so the shop sent it back to. (sorry to hijack) if anybody has one sitting around please pm me
05-18-2011, 10:02 PM
#14
Take mind that all responses so far are from rigs with aftermarket wheels and/or some type of lift. This is why you'll read all over the place that a 10.5" wide tire takes less effort to make work. The body can easily be addressed with a BFH and maybe some minor cutting or body lift, but i think you'll still have issues with the stock wheels offset. I still think they will rub on the upper control arms unless you modify them to clear, a part I personally would hesitate cutting into (had to convince myself cut for bj spacers) or put wheel spacers - go look at your rig and see how close the tire is right now. My guess is about a finger's distance away/.75" - now imagine adding another 1" to the width of your tires...+ the added thickness of sidewall lugs on an MTR...
I still think you should get them but since you're giving up your current tires, just wanna make sure you can use your rig and not be stuck immobilized until you address the rubbing. BTW, What's the manufacture date on these tires? I'm assuming they are the old style?
I still think you should get them but since you're giving up your current tires, just wanna make sure you can use your rig and not be stuck immobilized until you address the rubbing. BTW, What's the manufacture date on these tires? I'm assuming they are the old style?
05-19-2011, 02:29 AM
#16
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Take mind that all responses so far are from rigs with aftermarket wheels and/or some type of lift. This is why you'll read all over the place that a 10.5" wide tire takes less effort to make work. The body can easily be addressed with a BFH and maybe some minor cutting or body lift, but i think you'll still have issues with the stock wheels offset. I still think they will rub on the upper control arms unless you modify them to clear, a part I personally would hesitate cutting into (had to convince myself cut for bj spacers) or put wheel spacers - go look at your rig and see how close the tire is right now. My guess is about a finger's distance away/.75" - now imagine adding another 1" to the width of your tires...+ the added thickness of sidewall lugs on an MTR...
I still think you should get them but since you're giving up your current tires, just wanna make sure you can use your rig and not be stuck immobilized until you address the rubbing. BTW, What's the manufacture date on these tires? I'm assuming they are the old style?
I still think you should get them but since you're giving up your current tires, just wanna make sure you can use your rig and not be stuck immobilized until you address the rubbing. BTW, What's the manufacture date on these tires? I'm assuming they are the old style?
Keep in mind that I don't rock crawl, so when in the mud, dirt, and on the street it's fine. Flexing will be an issue!
In my pm I did forget to mention the pinch weld and the valance..
Last edited by 91 4Runner; 05-19-2011 at 02:43 AM.
05-19-2011, 03:46 AM
#17
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what is the stock offset of a 15 x 7" wheel? It matters between the aluminum and steel wheel right? if so what are they, because I am no where near rubbing the frame, but pretty close to the upper control arm lip/balljoint and the swaybar with 15 x 8 and 4.25" backspace. The suspension/frame I know is not different between my 87 and a 91. My width/backspacing is pretty much the same as a 15 x 7 with 3.75" backspacing as far as offset goes.
And now that I am looking at it, I also don't have my lower valance on either. And I had to cut the bracket for it.
all photos full stuff. And probably further actually since my t-bars were fully relaxed and more like adjuster bolts removed.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51695160
All photos 0-1" t-bar crank. (not sure where the P.O. had the set at.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51670513
Just to reiterate, this is pretty darn close to the control arm if you ask me. And it only gets closer at full droop. And depending on if your gonna run ball joint spacers I may or may not have issues. According the 4crawler though I "should" be ok.
And now that I am looking at it, I also don't have my lower valance on either. And I had to cut the bracket for it.
all photos full stuff. And probably further actually since my t-bars were fully relaxed and more like adjuster bolts removed.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51695160
All photos 0-1" t-bar crank. (not sure where the P.O. had the set at.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51670513
Just to reiterate, this is pretty darn close to the control arm if you ask me. And it only gets closer at full droop. And depending on if your gonna run ball joint spacers I may or may not have issues. According the 4crawler though I "should" be ok.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 05-19-2011 at 03:51 AM.
05-19-2011, 08:36 AM
#20
Contributing Member
Way too many people are claiming their tires don't rub, when it's obvious full steering lock and some flex will make them rub quite easily. 33x12.50's will be difficult to clear on a stock suspension no matter how you slice it, so be ready to cut if you're truly wanting to do it.
On my old '92:
On my old '92:
- 31x10.50's cleared without modification
- 33x10.50's took a 1" body lift and 1.5" suspension lift and pinch weld flattening, and they still rubbed at full lock with full suspension stuff. It wasn't bad though.
- 33x12.50's rubbed no problem at full lock with suspension stuff. It would have taken some serious cutting of the pinch weld area to make them truly "no rub" off road, but I was running BJ spacers and low-pro bumps so I had a good bit more travel than stock.
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