95blackToy

My trans is fine its a manual.

Yeah I got the harness attatchrd to the trans fine. But while its still in the engine compartment is my question. Can't figure out how to rout that.

Thanks, will have to get another pipe then.
Thanks for all the compliments!

Will finish tomorrow and

RBX

Can you snap a picture or two of the wiring you are concerned about. Sorry, I think I don't understand.

95blackToy

I will tomorrow, I'm working all day today.

Essentially where it splits from the rest of the harness and goes down and back to the trans.

I can't figure out if it goes along side the block under the headers, or outside the headers then over them into the trans.

RBX

Ok I think I know what you're saying. Mine runs from the main harness to the interior fender then across to the block under the exhaust manifold. I don't have headers. I'll snap picks in the morning, it's dark, but my engine bay and harness have been modified a bit.
I would just run them as neatly as possible and as far from heat as the length will allow. It may not be the factory routing but neither is 190hp and headers!
Hope that helps

95blackToy

That would be greatly appreciated!

I currently have mine routed down right behind the battery, along side/over the starter and up to the top of the trans

RBX

Hope this helps
Not easy to see, shock tower eats up a bunch of realestate.

95blackToy

Thanks! Made some adjustments to mine, seems better.

I still have a knock sensor code like before.
Put a new sensor but not wire because wire still had continuity through it.

Just_ Rollin'

I've been eying those Thorley headers, not so much for power but to maximize the life of my HG and keep the heat down some. What else do I need for the exhaust? If I just bought them from Summit, do I need extra exhaust pieces or can I just take off the stock headers and y-pipe and then bolt the new headers on to use the rest of the existing exhaust?

Sweet engine btw. I just painted my plenum silver so it looks OEM but I like yours. My sticker ate it though, gonna have to find a replacement.

RBX

The knock sensor is shielded...continuity is only one part of the way the wire works. Its much like an audio microphone the way it is wired. You probably know this now that the sensor is in the belly of the engine. Stuff like that happens to me all the time.

95blackToy

What do you mean by shielded? I did the wire last time head gasket blew, this time I only did the sensor because I had continuity, what do you recommend?

Really don't want to tear it appart for it. Any way to test the wire from the connection?

You will have to have some exhaust welding for the headers!

95blackToy

I plugged in an obd1 scanner and it said something about no power, could that be my problem?

Just_ Rollin'

I guess a custom pipe connecting the passenger header to the driver side main exhaust line and then another welded piece from the driver header down to the main line.

Man, at $600 for the headers you aren't even out the door for the exhaust because of the extra parts.

RBX

Copies from clublexus

The knock sensor is a piezoelectric device, the short of it is the signal going to the ECU is susceptible to electrical interference. Because of this, the wiring going to the ECU is shielded. All that means is a braided ground that covers the center wire completely, keeping out unwanted interference. If you've ever seen a TV coax cable, you know what this type of wire looks like, your car has essentially the same thing only a smaller diameter.

Not sure about your power problem get an fsm and check the voltage/ohm on the wire/connection.

95blackToy

Ok, I see. I'm not sure yet what I'm going to do to fix it, and any idea where to get a coax cable that size.

The kit comes with a way to connect them, a y pipe and an o2 sensor bung, by I just want it routed differently, so I'm not using the connecting pipe they intend to be used.

RBX

getting a cable that is similar in spec... I'd take it to a local electronics supplier that is firmiliar with that sort of thing.

Did you put a new sensor in with a pig-tail, or did you actually connect the wire to the sensor? Maybe the issue is how you connected it to the wire if thats what you did.

95blackToy

No, I used just a new sensor. I had this problem befor engine blew. I put a new sensor but not wire because the wire is only like 30k miles old. I used the actual plug. I checked wireing harness plug and have continuity to the ECM from one pin and continuity to the block on the other pin, I was going to try to ground the shielding to the body at the ecu but the wire doesn't seem to be shielded. Is only the small knock sensor wire shielded?


Got my exhaust all welded up. Seems quieter than before the new engine. Even though it's the same muffler and cat.

gareth

Looks great.

Looking forward to updates.

I have a question.

You stated that your head gasket blew again which led to this upgrade.

If you don't mind my asking, what brand gasket did you use that did not last?

95blackToy

I don't remember brand, bought it fom rock auto.

Before it pops up with code 52 it seems like it does have more power, this code 52 is killing my power.

Also my coolant temp used to always be just under 50%,
Now it sits at barely 25%. New thermostat and water pump.
Is this too low?

RBX

Your temp gauge is never accurate, I've seen 40* swing before it moved. Get a laser thermometer to get a better idea.
Your temp gauge could be bad. Check the fsm for the procedure of how to test.

On second thought, I'd invest in an accurate water temp gauge. You have a lot to loose if she's running at the wrong temp now.

95blackToy

But it was always in one spot before, and constantly at one spot now. Has to be running cooler. Only makes since that it's running cooler. The sensor didn't change and it's not very old either. I have changed a ton of stuff on this truck. That item is fairly new, relatively.

Te accurate gauge would ru of existing sensor? Or another sensor and guage?